David Marshall

The theory of drive train wear (the way I understand it) is not too difficult to comprehend. What does cloud the issue is the wide range of designs available - which leads to very different experiences. Basically what happens is that the chain enters the cassette through the rear derailleur at a low tension (the RD spring tension) and leaves the cassette at a much higher tension (you pushing the pedals). As the chain pins wear the chain effectively becomes longer and wears the front edges of the gear teeth as the chain is pulled through the cassette with increasing tension. The effect of this is widening of the gap between the points of the teeth. This is why when you put a new (shorter) chain on a worn cassette the chain rides on top of the points when entering the cassette (low tension) and then engages with a mighty clunk at some point when the tension increases. Probably only on one or two gears on the cassette will do this. At the other end the chain enters the chainring under high pressure. Within the first couple of teeth the chain is forced into the trough between the teeth and even if it is elongated the wearing effect is much less than on the cassette. This is the reason that chainrings don't need to be changed as often as cassettes. So when do you need new chainrings? On a 1X set up worn teeth will look more hook like than when they were new. The real indicator is when the new chain is very noisy. You may be able to see the chain hooking up on the ring for a moment before dropping off. The start of chain suck. On the 3 X cranks this was usually first noticeable on the middle ring. On 2 X cranks chainring wear is relatively slow. Road 53/39 rings lasted "a lifetime" - not so the cassettes. 50/34 compacts tend to wear the 50 ring while cassette wear is less because people tend to ride 1 X on that ring over the full cassette range. A sure sign that it needs replacement is the occasional unintentional chain drop when riding big - big. No hard and fast rule. Too many variables. Size, materials, service intervals, riding conditions and so on but I think this covers the basics.

I use an ICE ID wristband. You can order online.

A couple of reasons why you only get two types of nipple in this workshop. Silver brass or black brass.

If you are going to stick with 9 speed go for a Sora crank with the offset 4 bolt design. Other speeds may work but with varying degrees of success. If you want to go 10 or 11 speed you will need a complete new groupset. Be advised that if you need to replace any parts apart from the crank on that 9 speed you will need Sora 3500 parts (or equivalent ) and not the newer Sora 3000. Minefield!

Agreed

You are basically between a rock and a hard place. Those rings are 130mm bcd so you are not likely to get a smaller than 39T to fit. Also new rings will cost close to what a new crank will. Your BB is either Octolink or square taper so you will need to change that as well. I would look at a Sora or Claris crank with compact ring set up.

Cobus Buma 082 880 9600

My pet hate of the day - only because I am browsing - Hubbers who don't know the difference between a rim and a wheel (or a fork and a shock).

Not that long ago a groupset included hubs as well.

When you fit a new hanger you should align it in the frame with a proper tool which makes it a more challenging DIY task. The limit screws should not need much adjustment unless you are changing the wheel as well.

Try a soft pencil eraser. It works on tyres.

FYI, this information is often hard to find for some reason. Technical guide V3 Provincials 2025.pdf

Sounds like a cable/housing or routing issue but as it is a bicycle it could be something else.

I don't know the bikes so can't comment with any certainty. That said if it is an air fork and specs as per the website then R6000 seems a good price. I wouldn't worry about the BB or hanger. If the fork is looked after it should also last a few years. The tyres are unlikely to be tubeless set up or even tubeless ready (unless stated on the rubber). As for the frame size just make sure that an L is not too big for your son. Good luck.

Those figures are impressive. Well done Nick. I thought I was good at 137 built for the year. Unfortunately my spoke tensioning equipment after 15 years as a pro is showing signs of wear and tear🤕.

Solomon's Woodmead had a charity bin. I haven't used it for a while so check with them if still active.

That should be a quick fix for someone who knows their way around headsets. If it is a sealed bearing type avoid slapping any extra grease onto it. The grease is already inside the assembly where it is needed. Clean the seat and the outside of the bearing and refit. If it is a cup and cone type where the upper race and the balls (usually in a cage) come apart when you loosen it by all means add grease to the lower race and cone after cleaning. A thin "earthworm" of grease where you see the balls have run is enough. Any extra is just a dirt trap. Extra grease will not migrate onto the balls. The noise could also just be that the headset has worked loose. With the bike wheels on the ground you can check this by sitting on the crossbar, engage the front brake and with your hand over the joint between the headtube and headset cap. When you rock the bike forward and back you shouldn't feel any play.

If you replace the hanger the new one will most likely need to be aligned as well. Get that one realigned with a tool. Anything above 9 speed is not easily straightened by eye.

I never found anything decent when I was last there. The N2 is bad, narrow shoulder overgrown with bush/grass and heavy traffic. You can ride northwards through Salt Rock and stick to the coast until you run out of road but that doesn't give you much milage. It looks like the locals ride very early going south on the M4 towards Umhlanga and do out and back laps. There is a popular MTB trail park.

I've had a few Avalanche road bikes and they are solid. That one should do the job but if you get "keen" you will find it lacking. A carbon fork would be preferable and that crank/cassette option will always be - well what it is! Heavy and cumbersome. You will find the wheels (hubs, spokes and build) very entry level. Will get you from A to B but not with the pack through thick and thin on race day.

I just hate when the year of the bike model listed is way off. Rather don't put a date. I once PMd a seller to let him know that the bike listed as 2014 was actually 2003. He changed the add to 2009!

Be careful of what you see and hear. Different series and speeds of derailleur have different capacities. For example Ultegra 11 speed 6800GS can handle a 32/11 cassette while the 8000GS can accommodate a 34/11. There are hacks to get around the max capacity but in my experience there is always some compromise.

If you ride 50/34, 32/11 currently the new bike won't work for you. Question is what the rear derailleur can handle and if it is worth buying another crank/cassette set up or otherwise looking at a different bike.

I have one from a Sunrace M600 crank. 170mm long. Free plus shipping.

Sorry to hear of your sons accident. I hit the Cradle tar on Saturday and am nursing a broken rib so I can relate to his pain. Sounds like a classic high speed shimmy. Can be caused by any number of factors relating to the bike or rider tension or both. Your approach is the right one - go through one thing at a time and don't expect any one else's experience to be the same.