David Marshall

Bit of a mine field. I have 18 different headset bearings in stock. Some look identical but are not the same. To be honest I wouldn't trust the average mechanic to pick the right one and the frame manufacturers are not very forthcoming with details either. You need a tool to measure the angles as well as the dimensions.

Most of those 26" forks used between 130 and 150ml in the damper. Pour oil into the into the stanchion, cover the top and cycle the rebound. Extend and then adjust the level so that when you fit damper you cover the foot of the cartridge. Something like in the pic.

I once had a customer bring me parts to build the lightest alloy wheelset around. I can't for the life of me remember the rim brand but it was German and they had built very light 26" rims. Unfortunately they didn't transition to 29" well. It was the only time that I've had a wheel pretzel while building (at around 80 kgf). Needless to say they didn't last well. After that I threw out the workshop scale and all the aluminium nipples. Talking of light I see that Light Bicycle have built a carbon wheelset (road) at 718g. Disc and tubular. Rim is 180g

I'm with Nick here. I am not brand bashing but if you look at the pics of the hand built wheels you don't see straight pull spokes. My advice is that whatever you choose keep it that way!

My 2c. When you build a wheel the most important consideration is spoke quality and spoke length. Next would be the rim choice and lastly the hub. As long as the hub has a straight axle, good bearings and strong enough flanges it will do the job and outlast the rim. When it comes to replacing a hub check that the spokes are double butted and in good nick. Then make sure that the rim is in good condition. You can then replace the hub with (preferably) the identical hub or one with the same dimensions (unlikely). Otherwise you will need new spokes. So in short you will have the cost of a wheelbuild (R600), spokes and nipples (32 for R850) and the cost of the hub. You need a really good rim to justify this on a used wheel! Unless the rim is exceptional I would suggest selling the wheel and starting from scratch.

I share the negative sentiment with the current market where it is. More players struggling or closing than opening. Sourcing is difficult but not insurmountable. Retailing is far more challenging.

Can't agree more. I know of shops that will build a wheel for under R200. Not me. I charge R600 for a standard wheel build and that will usually take me over an hour. I can build in half an hour but I am a perfectionist so you can bank on at least an hour. As for tools - I can build without any fancy equipment but I can build a far better wheel with good tools. My three most expensive tools would set you back around R115 000. (P&K Lie truing stand EU 1800, DT Swiss tension meter EU336, Kowa spoke cutter/threader USD2600) Throw in VAT and shipping and you get there. That is 190 wheels have to be built before I earn a cent. Haven't mentioned a host of other tools - dishing tool, spoke keys, spoke stock (of around R80 000) and a lot more. You are right - R600 barely turns a profit.

I charge based on time (R600 per hour). Can be anything from R75 for a simple true to a lot more if you need to re tension , dish, remove tubeless and straighten out dents etc.

Also check that you have the seal between the hub and freehub in properly. You need to press it in with the flat of a screwdriver to make sure that it is fully recessed into the hub. The cassette needs to be off freehub to get to the seal. Takes quite a bit of pressure to get it to seat.

Before letting oil out I would push the pistons in with the old pads and fit the brake bleed block. If you can get the block in chances are that you don't need to let any oil out.

My shock is playing up... or is it my fork?

Me too.

OP is not clear in exactly what or why he wants to upgrade. I am assuming that something is not working on the 9 speed. I agree that 105 is much better than any of the others but i would sooner replace a worn 9 speed 105 after X thousand shifts with a new Sora or Microshift with 0 shifts. If the OP wants to upgrade to more gears I would replace the drive train complete.

I disagree. You can hack a lot of things to work together but if you want good crisp shifting you better take care especially with the change in pull ratios with the new groupsets. Plenty of info online.

Depends exactly what needs upgrading. The new Shimano road groupsets are not compatible backwards. For example the new 9 speed Sora 3000 shifters and derailleurs are not compatible with the 9 speed Sora 3500 or any other 9 speed (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra). You can use a Sunrace, Microshift or L-Twoo shifter or derailleur with the older groupsets.

I'm with Droo on this one. Make sure that the frame is well supported around that area before you apply too much pressure.

I would also like to try before I buy. A couple of reviews complain that the audible volume is too low. As my hearing is impaired I would really have to test.

Very sad. That is what I would consider one of the safer sections of the Cradle. In my prayers, buddy.

A gravel bike can be what you want it to be. You can put drop bars on your MTB or put the widest tyres on your road bike and there you have it! My opinion on the op's question is not if you want to do any serious road riding. I have a Fuji Sportif which is basically a robust road bike with the option to fit 32mm tyres and go gravel. I ride it exclusively on the road with 25mm tyres ('cos I have a gravel bike as well) and no I will not replace my road bike with it. I sometimes struggle to keep up with my mates and would not consider doing a road race on it. It is great for training and those long days in the saddle and I love the hydraulic discs but don't try for any KOM's.

To my understanding, although I have never tried to do it myself, the current generation Shimano road and MTB cable pull ratios are different and therefore components are not cross compatible. You can use any Shimano 11 speed road RD that is mid cage for an 11/32. Quick way to tell if it is mid cage from a picture is if you can easily fit a third pulley wheel in between the two mounted on the RD it is mid. If not it is short.

Agreed.... but therein also lies the problem. The same riders enter every year and a lot of potential entrants don't hear about the event. The provinces should "invite" the top 50 or 100 seeded riders in each category. That with a bit of timely event info should boost numbers. More riders would licence and licence fees would drop.... ok... maybe not increase so much! Clubs could also do a lot more to encourage racing. I belong to the biggest in the country and not a peep about provincials or even nationals.

As far as I know Shimano do not supply anything but the complete caliper. There are Aliexpress options.

Replace.

Not the same hub in the video but close enough.