Martin PJ

I have bought many items from Aliexpress. Shipping takes long, about 90 percent arrives. If it is an expensive item, open an Aramex global shopper account. You'll pay some duty when it arrives. Aramex courier is faster and more reliable than Aliexpress shipping which has our post office this side as the weak link.

I ride my HT a lot, I do like it. My advice for enjoyable HT riding, firstly you need a good fork. Second is that a dropper seatpost is really a great upgrade for a HT. I suspect that the good HT is faster than the full sus in a race situation, although this is not easily provable in real life. The HT certainly climbs better, and the HT with the dropper is better on technical stuff than the full sus without a dropper.

The skateboarder got off. The video evidence on Youtube was not sufficient for charge. The video could have been altered, I think was the reasoning.

Sani is not that hard, more serious injuries happen because you going pretty fast when you wipe out because of a small tree stump, or sandy patch on a corner. If you normally ride certain bike (i.e. gravel bike or HT) at a bike park or MTB races, you'll be fine.

My first Sani (about 2010) two guys rode on makro bikes, dressed in slops and hawaian shirts. My impression was they were glad when it was over.

I have bad brake shudder on rear of carbon hardtail GT MTB. Rotors are attached with 6 bolts. It started when I changed the brakes from new Deore to older SLX. Changing the rear rotor (which was a bit bent) made no difference. The one thing that did help was putting new brake pads, after the new pads wore in a bit, the shudder started again, bad as ever. It happens when I brake hard, which is a lot on the MTB. I am changing the brakes now, got some newer style XT, hoping it will fix.

I used to think the down was slower than the horizontal, then Shurter road the Scott with the down orientation for a while, so I figured it's much of a muchness.

It is possible if your frame headtube is 44 mm diameter. Google search this. I have a tapered fork on a straight GT aluminium frame, the adapter I bought on Aliexpress.

Yes. Try a few. I got a quote of R700 in the second one I visited.

I have bought many pairs of myopia glasses and sunglasses from Aliexpress. They are very cheap, but they work fine for cycling. It takes a while for them to arrive. But worth the wait. I found they are not good for driving at night (especially in the rain), but otherwise work fine. The normal sunglasses are pretty good too, many come with myopia inserts which local optometrists can make up for you. The various types of myopia inserts for sports glasses are also very cheap. I have bought a few, but not tried them out yet.

It will fit.

Nope.

Got some feedback from mechanic. He has picked up the teflon sleeve on the bushings on left side of fork was torn off. So this is why the stanchion was damaged so quickly. In the one pic attached, the teflon sleeve is hanging down, in the second pic the piece of teflon is removed.

I agree. Will be my position when discuss with my mates at the bike shop. Let's see what they say. I suspect I will have to chalk this one to experience. This is about 6 grand a year in fork servicing (3 major services and 3 lowers service a year - wife rides more than me). Maybe better to skip services, buy a new one when required. Which is pretty much what I have been doing, up to now. It was taking 4 to 5 years to trash the fork when I only serviced the fork when it gave an issue.

Was 8 months. More than 200 hours. It's my wife's bike, she does lockout a lot. Just been serviced, not a great look. It's back with the shop.

Not in PE.

Slow learner. Lol. With the fork stanchion replacement. Invoice was over R7000. So yes. Did assume everything was done. I am thinking now that this was not the case.

It does look like a gap. I took it back to another mechanic today, he said he would strip fork and take photos of everything. There is something wrong with the fork in this pic. After getting a service last week the fork went to 140 mm. It is 120 mm fork, so therefore took it back today. Ironically, if it wasn't for the 140 mm fork issue, I wouldn't have seen most of the damage. This part is normally inside the lower part.

To be honest, I don't know. Shop did everything, I had taken it in because stanchions were worn, so I am presuming this was done. I will find out.

Sounds like a plan. Will let you know.

Update on my stanchion replacement last September. Fork was leaking oil, took it in and stanchion is wrecked again. Not sure if I did something wrong. Regretting paying for stanchion replacement. Will probably look for second hand fork on bikehub. It's a Rockshox Reba RL. Will take it to shop, see what they say. I doubt if there is any recourse.

I have supported Solomons Durban for many years. This brand has great integrity. All bike shops make mistakes, the best shops sort things out as soon as they are aware of the mistake.

I tested mine now more closely, the link is not the problem. I think it is the limit screw needs a bit of adjustment. If that doesn't work, then the 11t cog must be worn. I cannot see any bent teeth, but this isn't always obvious as the teeth are different shapes to assist with chain movement on gear changes.

Funny story, just checked my mtb now and the link is facing wrong. I rode an mtb race yesterday, my chain was slipping in 11t.