Martin PJ

I rode a pair of these for a while, the spokes rust. Also the wheels are heavy for the look (although the wheels look light), between 1800 g and 1900 g for a set. The spokes break if you ride a lot of speed bumps. The year was about 2005. I ending up respoking my wheel twice, once for rust and once as many spokes where breaking. You could probably respoke them with any j-bend spokes. Have to use the same spoke nipples as they are bigger size. I wouldn't pay much for them. If I owned them, would probably fix them up and ride them.

Have always used Triptych. My only advice is that before you get a quote, get the item dimensions packed as small as possible. For bicycles the cost is very much dependent on size of the box.

That's it. Yes.

In 2016 a cyclist killed two attackers near Giba Gorge mtb park.

I carry a monkey fist weapon which I bought from aliexpress.com. I have since learnt how to make them. It looks like a big key ring, so if you decide not to fight it is likely the attacker won't know what it is. Cost to make is about R50, 3cm iron ball and 4 m of paracord.

Good advice about the 34 upfront and 28 at the back. I have a bike for my wife like this, this gear ratio works very well. Something to consider if you go bigger than 28 at the back, a 9 speed MTB derailleur will work 10 speed on road bike. You would need to extend the chain a bit, then you can go up to 36 teeth at the back. I have this setup on a road bike with 1x10. The rear derailleur is XT 9 speed. The derailleur extenders also work very well to convert a road derailleur to handle bigger cogs at the bag, I have used them for this purpose with great success.

You can size up a bit, or down by adjusting stem length and saddle length. I bought a Large / Medium and managed to make it fit medium in front or XL in front, depending on the stem and seat post height used. I would be worried about an XS on a small frame (e.g. if you bought Large / Small or Medium / Small). Ideally you should check first. Before I bought my tandem I asked the seller to take many measurements of various parts of the frame, compare with existing bikes to ensure that the sizing would work.

Are you planning to buy road or MTB tandem?

Big jug of tap water and some glasses, would rather leave a generous tip that pay for water.

For this reason I prefer a coffee stop where you can each buy your stuff before you sit down. Much better. In our group we had many experiences where everyone chips in and we end up tipping R200 on a R300 bill for coffees. I then expect great service the next few times, but didn't happen.

I use any duct tape, cheaper the better. Don't believe insulation tape adds any value. Once I put the tape on I run a tire lever along the bead on both edges to make sure the tape is plush against the rim.

Lol. Yes to everything you wrote. Also more likely to have bad wipeouts because of power of bike and lack of skill. The oldest rider was pretty banged up at the end on his ebike. Hero that he is. I can see what the organisers are trying to achieve with the ebikes, giving less capable people the chance to take part. However, we are talking about ebike tourism here. The bikes are too powerful, riders too unfit. Something that takes away from my achievement in riding Sani.

You can buy 11 speed cogs on Aliexpress.com, cheap but take months to arrive. Ask a mate if they have an old cassette lying around, this cog does not usually wear out first. Something to check, is the chain master link on the right way round? They are directional and can cause the chain to skip on the 11t if put on backwards.

Is the locking ring 11 speed on both?

It's not really a bolt. I think I may create the wrong impression. Like this, countersunk screw with a small nut. Cut it short once it is in, glue the shoe as well.

Use small m3 bolts with flattish top. You don't even notice them.. Once you have dirt on a surface, it will never form a decent bond. I have tried glue alone. A mate of mine had a cobbler repair one of his pairs of shoes, didn't last too long.

I have repaired a few pairs with small brass nuts and bolts. Drill a small pilot hole, push the bolt through from the inside. Smear some shoe glue on the separated pieces. Once it is tightened up, cut off the bit of the bolt that sticks out. Paint the brass black with some nail polish. Need about 4 or 5 bolts per shoe. If you get it repaired at a shop, it will never hold for long.

Tandem brakes use a conversion, work really well.

You can get some gravel bars, use cable disk brakes.

Ball and cone bearings (like many Shimano) always feel slightly rubbish, when it feels really rubbish then you perform a service, replace anything that looks damaged or pitted, clean and new grease. Make sure you don't over tighten when you put it all together (back off about quarter turn on the locking nut). New sealed bearings can feel a bit tight, but still feel smooth. Make sure that nothing is touching when they spin and I am sure it will get better after a few rides. If you not sure what bearings to use, ask the bike shops where they get their bearings and use the same, bearings are not all the same quality.

+1 for Rapide. I use the 780 aluminium bars for about two years now.

Gravel bike should be fine, it is district road and tar. If it is wet, without a clutch derailleur you will not make it. So as long as the gravel bike has a proper derailleur and not a road derailleur you will be fine.

Jasper said its a combination of Gold and Yellow where they took out the nasty single track and is rideable on a gravel bike. He is the trailmaster there.

I emailed Holla and got a reply with GPX, this does not look like a gravel route.

Can you post the file, want to look at it.