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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all, i'm looking for a rigid lefty fork. Does anyone know where in SA I can buy one? (I'm hesitant looking abroad but will keep it open as option B). It's for a 29er hardtail MTB. I plan on building a rigid 29er hardtail for gravel grinding and just messing around. If not a lefty rigid fork then where can I look for normal rigid forks? Carbon or aluminium or steel. Tapered or straight steerer Thanks in advance.
  2. I am looking for a 120mm Rockshox Sid select/select+/Ultimate fork (35mm stanchions) and manual lock out. Any ideas or leads where I might get one? Open to 2nd hand as well.
  3. Hi All, I have been looking to upgrade from a entry level SR Suntour XCT Coil Fork to an Air Fork on my hardtail. It seems with the global shortage 27,5" forks are hard to come by locally unless you going for something ultra premium or want to ship from overseas. That been said I have seen reviews of 29" Forks on 27" Frame - with continued usage of 27.5" wheels. With there been slight changes to the geometry and handling has anyone does this conversion and can share their experience? I have also done the exercise of putting my bike geometry into a calculator to see what the changes would be like. Ref attachments Based on the results I think it would be fine. Can anyone else offer a review of the results? Bike: Giant Talon 3 - 2019 - 27,5" Small Frame - Coil Fork with 80mm Travel New Fork Option: GIANT SXC-2 29er RRL Fork 100mm Travel (This Fork because of its price point and is featured on the latest versions of the Talon) Many thanks
  4. Steve Bowman, Fox South Africa brand manager, takes us through a basic fork service. In this video, Steve shows us the process of removing the lower legs, cleaning and checking the fork, and how to reassemble the fork. Click here to view the article
  5. The Lauf fork has generated a fair bit of chatter on The Hub. We thought we'd throw ourselves into the conversation and give the Lauf TR29 a ride. Click here to view the article
  6. Aimed directly at All Mountain and Enduro riding, the DVO Diamond is an air sprung fork with 130-160mm of travel. The Diamond is available in 27.5" and 29" options. It features a plethora of external adjustments that includes DVO's OTT (Off The Top) negative spring adjust borrowed from its bigger brother the inverted Emerald downhill fork. We've been testing a 27.5" 160mm model for the past 10 months. Click here to view the article
  7. Got a little over ambitious down Alice in Wonderland i think it was on sunday morning. Took a tumble. Nothing serious. There was no impact as such. No air or oil leaks as yet. seals seem fine...for now anyways. Been reading up about all sorts of fixes. Wondering if any lbs in cape town actually does them. Or if there is a mad scientist out there who knows what to do this is the fork http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailProdotti.asp?idC=1528&IdFolder=113&idMY=30710&IdOggetto=30803
  8. The last update to RockShox’s Pike, Revelation, Lyrik, and Yari forks was just a change to the C1 air spring with a new foot nut and seal head. I believe this was done as a response to complaints from users that their forks were sagging into the travel and so had less travel than advertised. A 160 mm fork might have been sitting at about 155 mm at rest, for example. RockShox has touted the revision as providing a higher ride height and no wasted travel or dead space. However, suspension specialists (such as Chris Porter and Vorsprung) have pointed out that the C1 seal head creates a smaller negative air chamber, resulting in a less supple start to the travel and less small-bump sensitivity. Their recommendation seems to be to stick to the B1/B2 seal head and enjoy the better grip and sensitivity at the top of the stroke, and stop obsessing over the travel markings on the stanchions. Based on my understanding of how the system works, it’s the longer foot nut of the C1 version that extends the fork out so it has more travel and is riding higher. It is equivalent to fitting a slightly longer air shaft. I can only hypothesise that the seal head was revised in order to reduce the negative air volume so that the fork cannot be extended deep into the negative travel to the extent that insufficient stanchion and bushing overlap become an issue. Is anyone able to confirm this, or correct me, please? If I am right, does that mean that one could use the longer C1 foot nut to get the higher ride height, but combine it with the B1/B2 seal head for the large negative chamber, provided that the fork is not already at the maximum travel for that model? So with a 160 mm air shaft in a Lyrik and a 140 mm air shaft in a Pike this should be fine, and would give the advertised travel but also the superior performance of the larger negative air chamber? Any clarifications, corrections, or references to further reading or explanations are appreciated!
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