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Stripped Crank Arm


zaShadow

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@Drongo

 

I didn't get it? Was the post from @Tankman supposed to be a joke, or useful information?

 

Not everyone is a bike mechanic like you, so have a little patience.

Edited by zaShadow
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@Drongo

 

I didn't get it? Was the post from @Tankman supposed to be a joke, or useful information?

 

Not everyone is a bike mechanic like you, so have a little patience.

 

Nope. No joke. Just no completed explanation.

A facepalm is part of patience, but expressed visually. :D

 

Let us continue.

If you read my previous comments, Johan's comments, and peruse Tank's photo carefully (which I had not done) then you should deduce the following (without paying attention to all the lefty, righty crap).

 

Your pedal, regardless of which side it goes on, tightens TOWARD the front of the bike, and loosens AWAY from the front of the bike. Same for your BB cups. BB cups are usually marked as to drive and non-drive side. Sometimes pedals are stamped at the end of the thread, L-R, sometimes not. So you need to check first before inserting.

As stated, the logic and science dictates that it be so. In this way, the component "tightens" itself as you pedal, instead of coming undone (unless you are French, in which case it does).

So yes. In short, you would press down on that spanner to loosen, as the spanner is shown in picture.

 

Rule of thumb. If you have to force it - you are doing it wrong.

 

copius pax. :thumbup:

 

Edit: Looking at that photo again, it is OFF! The red arrow is either indicating the spanner, which is obvious anyway, or that one should apply force upwards. That would in effect tighten the drive side. Ignore the photo. Read the above through.

Edited by The Drongo
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zaShadow, the way I remember is like this.

 

When you want to loosen your pedals, keep the pedal spanner at the same/constant angle to the ground and rotate your cranks as if you're pedalling forwards. (this applies to left and right pedals)

 

If you want to tighten... do the same, but pedal backwards.

 

Backwards pedal = tighten

Forwards pedal = loosen

 

So yeah, pretty easy to remember... and it's a faster way, to get pedals off and on, than rotating the pedal spanner

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zaShadow, the way I remember is like this.

 

When you want to loosen your pedals, keep the pedal spanner at the same/constant angle to the ground and rotate your cranks as if you're pedalling forwards. (this applies to left and right pedals)

 

If you want to tighten... do the same, but pedal backwards.

 

Backwards pedal = tighten

Forwards pedal = loosen

 

So yeah, pretty easy to remember... and it's a faster way, to get pedals off and on, than rotating the pedal spanner

 

Except that the initial force required to loosen, or end force required to tighten, can not be achieved by pedaling. And those are the damaging forces.

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true... but I don't apply the force at the pedals. I hold the end of the spanner, and push the spanner in a direction that will either make the cranks rotate forward or backwards (depending on whether I want to loosen or tighten).

 

It's pretty effective. Also to be remembered is one's mechanical advantage. I usually have the handle end of the spanner pointing towards the BB, not away from it. Like so:

 

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/PW_good_leverage.jpg

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/PW_bad_leverage.jpg

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And do you press down to release the pedal then?

 

Egggxactly! If you keep the chain on and have both wheels on the floor, there is nowhere for the crank to go while applying downward force.

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@Drongo

 

I didn't get it? Was the post from @Tankman supposed to be a joke, or useful information?

 

Not everyone is a bike mechanic like you, so have a little patience.

 

only saw this now

 

That is no joke, that is the way I always remove my pedals.

Much easier than having the crank halfway in the air like some are suggesting!

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seems like the photo confused some, the arrow was to point out the spanner - sorry!

 

The arrow now points out the spanner & the direction of force that should be applied! (same for both sides)

 

post-4352-0-10093900-1307439835.jpg

Edited by Tankman
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Cool fiets daai Tankie! Jy moet hom net 'n bietjie was.

 

Ek het mos nou die dag my ou crankmoer(?) gestrip nadat ek my moer gestrip het omdat hy nie wou los. Dit is Truvati en hy maak met 8mm allankey los. So nou moet ek (of iemand wat kan) blykbaar 'n 6mm vas-swys in die gat en dit so probeer afkry.

 

Nice.

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You ask why BB thread (and pedal thread for that matter) is the way it is?If it wasn't, it would unscrew itself through a mechanism called precession.Precession is when a body (in this case the BB itself) rotates around a point that is not in the centre of the body. Thin of a large man and small child. The man holds the child's hands and he swings her around in a circle. If you look at the man's feet you'll notice that he's not rotating exactly around the centre point through his body. His feet actually tap out a small circle around him. This is precession. The earth and the moon does the same. The moon doesn't rotate around the earth with the earth's two poles offering a perfect axle. Earth actually moves in a small circle itself.A car with an unbalanced wheel does the same.The same happens with a BB in the frame's BB shell. The BB spins around its axle, but the axle, thanks to the unbalanced weight of the crank, moves in a small circle. This circle is allowed by the flexibility of the BB shell. We're talking small here.Now, if the two items - the BB shell and BB, are screwed into each other, that movement unscrews the two from each other if the thread is not adjusted to make them screw tighter, not looser.Italian threaded BBs are not adjusted for this phenomena and thus have a tendency to come loose. They have to be extra tight.The same is true for pedals. There is precession in there.In the case of the BB, the two sides are not tapped with the same tool. The right and left side tool are opposites of each other.

 

I fully understood why they need to be threaded that way.

You were right in 2 ways and wrong in 1:

 

1) wine helped

2) like a nut on a bolt - it can screw either way onto a bolt

3) it was white wine and much more than a glass!

 

never too old to learn

Edited by ichnusa
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I fully understood why they need to be threaded that way.

You were right in 2 ways and wrong in 1:

 

1) wine helped

2) like a nut on a bolt - it can screw either way onto a bolt

3) it was white wine and much more than a glass!

 

never too old to learn

 

 

Aaah weeelll. I can't be perfect all the time.

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Cool fiets daai Tankie! Jy moet hom net 'n bietjie was.

 

Ek het mos nou die dag my ou crankmoer(?) gestrip nadat ek my moer gestrip het omdat hy nie wou los. Dit is Truvati en hy maak met 8mm allankey los. So nou moet ek (of iemand wat kan) blykbaar 'n 6mm vas-swys in die gat en dit so probeer afkry.

 

Nice.

 

Dankie, maar dit is nie my fiets daardie nie, dit is my friend Google sin. Ek sal hom soek en laat weet om dit te was! :lol:

 

Gaan chat met Marc by Cape Town Cycles in Brackenfell, hy sal jou kan help.

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