Traditional hand laced wheels

[TNT1]

We can't all be perfect :lol: :lol:

 

Yeah, could be worse, I could be in Pretoria

[DaLoCo]

Talking about coincidence - I am NOT in KZN

Then you should know my brother...he is also not from KZN

[TNT1]

Then you should know my brother...he is also not from KZN

 

Hey! I could be your brother then

[DaLoCo]

Hey! I could be your brother then

You starting a new religious sect then? :o :lol:

[TNT1]

You starting a new religious sect then? :o :lol:

 

No way. I'm running away to join the Moonies.

[Bat-ass]

Come on JB.... i need you!!!! this threads gone pear shaped!!!!

[DaLoCo]

Come on JB.... i need you!!!! this threads gone pear shaped!!!!

Maybe that is the problem with the wheel

[walker]

Take your wheel to Cyclesphere they have sorted several wheels for me.

[nuge]

had this problem when i upgraded my shimano 600 hubbed wheels from 8-speed to 10-speed - there's just not enough clearance on the 32-spoke hubs, which is weird because the cassette spacing (small cog to large cog) for 8 speed and 10 speed is the same.

 

had to suck it in and stick to my second lowest gear for the hills, luckily were my training set for a while - now on the s/s.

 

anyway, interested to hear a professional opinion on this one.

[nigelhicks]

@ Bat-ass

 

There are 2 possibilities that i can think of -

 

1) the hanger is bent .... ( i know you said it isnt but have you checked it with a PROPER hangertool? Like a park tool hanger tool? - Cus sometimes just looking at it doesnt help! )

 

2) Check the angle of the spokes versus the backside of the cassettes largest ring. When building a rear wheel the spokes on the cassette side are always shorter than the non-drive side to compensate for the wider diameter of the cassette - you'll see this as the spokes are more inline with the vertical plane compared to the non-drive spokes. IF by some magical reason the LBS has put in the wrong sized spokes this "could" affect the spoke angle allowing for the derailleur to come into contact with the spokes (ALTHOUGH THIS IS HIGHLY UNLIKELY IF THE WHEEL IS DISHED CORRECTLY LIKE YOU SAY IT IS!)

 

----

 

Id say try this -

1. put the bike on a stand so the rear wheel is off the ground -

2. put the derailleur into the largest ring at the back -

3. sit behind the rear wheel and spin it noting where the spokes are catching the derailleur ...

4. is it where the spokes cross?

5. does it only do it when you are shifting up into the largest ring?

6. or does it do it all the time?

7. Check your hanger again!!!

 

THEN

LET ME KNOW! and i'll try figure it out!

 

Cheers Nige

[Bat-ass]

@ Bat-ass

 

There are 2 possibilities that i can think of -

 

1) the hanger is bent .... ( i know you said it isnt but have you checked it with a PROPER hangertool? Like a park tool hanger tool? - Cus sometimes just looking at it doesnt help! )

 

2) Check the angle of the spokes versus the backside of the cassettes largest ring. When building a rear wheel the spokes on the cassette side are always shorter than the non-drive side to compensate for the wider diameter of the cassette - you'll see this as the spokes are more inline with the vertical plane compared to the non-drive spokes. IF by some magical reason the LBS has put in the wrong sized spokes this "could" affect the spoke angle allowing for the derailleur to come into contact with the spokes (ALTHOUGH THIS IS HIGHLY UNLIKELY IF THE WHEEL IS DISHED CORRECTLY LIKE YOU SAY IT IS!)

 

----

 

Id say try this -

1. put the bike on a stand so the rear wheel is off the ground -

2. put the derailleur into the largest ring at the back -

3. sit behind the rear wheel and spin it noting where the spokes are catching the derailleur ...

4. is it where the spokes cross?

5. does it only do it when you are shifting up into the largest ring?

6. or does it do it all the time?

7. Check your hanger again!!!

 

THEN

LET ME KNOW! and i'll try figure it out!

 

Cheers Nige

 

THere is ample room between the derailler and spokes when chain is on biggest cog, but when climbing steep hills out the saddle the wheel is obviously flexing and the derailler is touching the spokes right where they cross.

[nigelhicks]

THere is ample room between the derailler and spokes when chain is on biggest cog, but when climbing steep hills out the saddle the wheel is obviously flexing and the derailler is touching the spokes right where they cross.

Ok thats 1 of 2 things

 

1) Serious wheel flex cus the spokes are actually not tight anymore. OR

2) your axle is loose causing the wheel to move when teh bike is rocked - (but i think its the first one!)

 

OK - so check the following.

 

1. on the drive side of the wheel hold the PARALLEL spokes (not the ones that cross) between your thumb anf index finger and check the tension by trying to squeeze them towards one another. You should hardly be able to move them! Check all parallel pairs for play.

2. if they are tight check whether your wheel has play coming from the axle.

3. if its not that try a new derailleur hanger as "sometimes" these can begin to flex under pressure when old! This causes it to go out of alignment only under pressure.

4. - if its none of these go back to the LBS and choon them to figure it out! hahahaha

[Johan Bornman]

Sorry okes, I didn't hear my phone ring, but I' here now.

 

Thanks for the kind introduction Samajoor and Drongo and co.

 

 

Back to Battie:

 

There are two problems with your rear wheel.

 

1) The spoke tension is too low. I can hear their dull thud from here. Tension them until they make a nice metallic twang when plucked.

 

2) The pulling spokes on the right hand side (draw yourself a little diagram with direction of pedalling torque etc in) pull the interlaced spoke out, instead of in. I assume it is a 3X wheel. The pulling spokes should cross like this: under, under, over. Your pushing spokes cross like this, which is wrong. The mistake happened at the lacing stage.

 

 

I'm afraid it is back to square one for that wheel.

[Bat-ass]

Sorry okes, I didn't hear my phone ring, but I' here now.

 

Thanks for the kind introduction Samajoor and Drongo and co.

 

 

Back to Battie:

 

There are two problems with your rear wheel.

 

1) The spoke tension is too low. I can hear their dull thud from here. Tension them until they make a nice metallic twang when plucked.

 

2) The pulling spokes on the right hand side (draw yourself a little diagram with direction of pedalling torque etc in) pull the interlaced spoke out, instead of in. I assume it is a 3X wheel. The pulling spokes should cross like this: under, under, over. Your pushing spokes cross like this, which is wrong. The mistake happened at the lacing stage.

 

 

I'm afraid it is back to square one for that wheel.

 

 

Thanks Johan.... i'll check it out tonight.... i'll bet my bottom dollar you are right!!!!

[Big H*]

Talking about coincidence - I am NOT in KZN

 

Thank goodness neither am I

[HeartCoppi]

Dr George from Mean Machine: Best wheel builder in SA.