-DH- Posted August 12, 2011 Share So i decide to go ride street to practice some skills at night cause i work and all .. I Ride 50 meters out and bam one of the links on the chain f... out god knows why making the rear Derailleur and drop out hook onto the spokes subsequently bending the 2 components (deraileur/drop out). So i presumed it cant be that bad cost wise, bend here and there. Today i get the call R1060 for Derailleur and the drop out with labor , Look on a site the same Derailleur cost R500 but here is the issue don't have anyone to help out for FIX Anyone keen on making a buck on the side when i **** up and cant fix myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted August 12, 2011 Share So i decide to go ride street to practice some skills at night cause i work and all .. I Ride 50 meters out and bam one of the links on the chain f... out god knows why making the rear Derailleur and drop out hook onto the spokes subsequently bending the 2 components (deraileur/drop out). So i presumed it cant be that bad cost wise, bend here and there. Today i get the call R1060 for Derailleur and the drop out with labor , Look on a site the same Derailleur cost R500 but here is the issue don't have anyone to help out for FIX Anyone keen on making a buck on the side when i **** up and cant fix myself. U need to learn to do the fixes yourself. Go buy the parktool big blue book on bicycle repairs or just google it. Replacing a hanger and a derailer is fairly straight forward. The limit screws are a bitch though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted August 12, 2011 Share U need to learn to do the fixes yourself. Go buy the parktool big blue book on bicycle repairs or just google it. Replacing a hanger and a derailer is fairly straight forward. The limit screws are a bitch though. +1 , even if you just change everything over and the really technical bits get the shop to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted August 12, 2011 Share So i decide to go ride street to practice some skills at night cause i work and all .. I Ride 50 meters out and bam one of the links on the chain f... out god knows why making the rear Derailleur and drop out hook onto the spokes subsequently bending the 2 components (deraileur/drop out). So i presumed it cant be that bad cost wise, bend here and there. Today i get the call R1060 for Derailleur and the drop out with labor , Look on a site the same Derailleur cost R500 but here is the issue don't have anyone to help out for FIX Anyone keen on making a buck on the side when i **** up and cant fix myself. I feel your pain! had the same thing happen while messing around on my 4X bike. Derailleur caught in spokes. Mangled cage with a peice broken off (SRAM X9 short cage... plastic nonsense), most of the teeth stripped off the jockey wheels, and derailleur hanger bent (which surprised me, cos morewood derailleur hangers are pretty beefy. Cost me quite a bit more though... R360 for hanger. R830 for saint RD. R500 for Saint shifter. Did the labour myself though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubba Posted August 12, 2011 Share if its just a derailleur and hanger its easy. Check out youtube as well, you can find anything on there. Hanger and derailleur attachment is very easy, just tighten it to the correct torque. http://youtu.be/Z3bVgP_MNwc Edited August 12, 2011 by Chubba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted August 12, 2011 Share +1 , even if you just change everything over and the really technical bits get the shop to do it. There is nothing "really technical" on a bicycle. Only maybe shell facing and wheel building. But that can be learned aswell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 12, 2011 Share So i decide to go ride street to practice some skills at night cause i work and all .. I Ride 50 meters out and bam one of the links on the chain f... out god knows why making the rear Derailleur and drop out hook onto the spokes subsequently bending the 2 components (deraileur/drop out). So i presumed it cant be that bad cost wise, bend here and there. Today i get the call R1060 for Derailleur and the drop out with labor , Look on a site the same Derailleur cost R500 but here is the issue don't have anyone to help out for FIX Anyone keen on making a buck on the side when i **** up and cant fix myself. You have an expensive LBS and you need to take the plunge in learning to do the basics on your own bike .. will save you tons of Z.A.R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-DH- Posted August 12, 2011 Share Thanks for the replies guys Its not learning to do it myself that scares me im quite passionate about the sport and quite frankly i have moved from being annoyed with lego to be annoyed with getting MTB components on right It is the adjustments im scared of i always think that the adjustment is not to its best because im the one who did it thanks for the you tube video bro makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 12, 2011 Share Thanks for the replies guys Its not learning to do it myself that scares me im quite passionate about the sport and quite frankly i have moved from being annoyed with lego to be annoyed with getting MTB components on right It is the adjustments im scared of i always think that the adjustment is not to its best because im the one who did it thanks for the you tube video bro makes sense Fit it and set it up .. worst case scenario you end up just getting the LBS to fine tune your rear der. Or fiddle and fiddle till you come right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted August 12, 2011 Share On a side note, what is the perfect distance between the upper jockey wheel and the big and small cog at the back? I understand you use the b tension bolt for this adjustment. Just want to clarify the distance to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubba Posted August 12, 2011 Share On a side note, what is the perfect distance between the upper jockey wheel and the big and small cog at the back? I understand you use the b tension bolt for this adjustment. Just want to clarify the distance to have.i guess this would vary on chain length and cassette/chainring sizing? Edited August 12, 2011 by Chubba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted August 12, 2011 Share i guess this would vary on chain length and cassette/chainring sizing? Ja u would have to adjust it if you changed the cassette and chain etc. But what distance would you want to keep between the chain and the cogs is my question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny K Posted August 12, 2011 Share U need to learn to do the fixes yourself. Go buy the parktool big blue book on bicycle repairs or just google it. Replacing a hanger and a derailer is fairly straight forward. The limit screws are a bitch though. Limit screws are moer easy - all it does is stop the derailer at the top and bottom.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny K Posted August 12, 2011 Share There is nothing "really technical" on a bicycle. Only maybe shell facing and wheel building. But that can be learned aswell. +1 - I will straighten my wheel no prob, but to dish a wheel - I'd rather leave it to the trained guys with experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted August 12, 2011 Share There is nothing "really technical" on a bicycle. Only maybe shell facing and wheel building. But that can be learned aswell. For some, applying lube is technical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted August 12, 2011 Share For some, applying lube is technicalsexual. What, which forum am I on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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