Wez-O Posted September 7, 2015 Share Okay so does anyone run a 11speed chain on a 10speed cassette or is that a no go? Apparently perfectly acceptable, no problem whatsoever just not the other way, ie 10sp chain on 11sp cassGood to know... Additionally, I run an 11 speed front deraileur on a 10 speed groupo and that is also fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted September 7, 2015 Share I am not very technical minded but have a fair dose of common sense. But that means nothing when dealing with chains, cables, derailleurs etc I had a good old crash yesterday and my shimano rear shifter is kaput. klaar . gedaan. Cable have a kink and so on. I decided just to remove the cable and shifter, since shifter will have to be replaced or repaired. I have a two by ten, which now is a one by ten???? Can I go ahead and mtb until I can replace or fix???If I understand correctly; - rear shifter and cable removed.- rear derailer unharmed, should now be sitting on the smallest cog- front derailer unharmed and working so you can choose big blade or small one in front? If all answers are Yes then you can ride but you will have to push quite hard on the pedals where you would normally choose an easier gear. It is not all that expensive to buy a new shifter and cable....your LBS should be able to fix this in a day or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ans and Sue Posted September 7, 2015 Share If I understand correctly;- rear shifter and cable removed.- rear derailer unharmed, should now be sitting on the smallest cog- front derailer unharmed and working so you can choose big blade or small one in front? If all answers are Yes then you can ride but you will have to push quite hard on the pedals where you would normally choose an easier gear. It is not all that expensive to buy a new shifter and cable....your LBS should be able to fix this in a day or so.No damn I meant the front derailleur..damn damn damn... Monday morning fog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ans and Sue Posted September 7, 2015 Share No damn I meant the front derailleur..damn damn damn... Monday morning fog and I use only the small ring in front in anyway. and that is where it is. I feel duh this morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted September 7, 2015 Share No damn I meant the front derailleur..damn damn damn... Monday morning fogAah Ok....[emoji1] So is it the shifter on the handlebar that is broken or the actual fromt derailer at the chainrings? Either way you can still ride. Remove front derailer from bike. Change manually (with fingers) between big and small chainrings if you need to. If you have a clutch derailer at the rear ensure the clutch is engaged....this will help to prevent the chain coming off the front rings. If you decide to convert permanently to 1x10 then consider buying an intermediate size narrow-wide chainring with 30, 32 or 34 teeth. These have longer teeth and do not drop the chain so easily. Post a photo if you can. Edited September 7, 2015 by JXV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ans and Sue Posted September 7, 2015 Share Aah Ok....[emoji1] So is it the shifter on the handlebar that is broken or the actual fromt derailer at the chainrings? Either way you can still ride. Remove front derailer from bike. Change manually (with fingers) between big and small chainrings if you need to. If you have a clutch derailer at the rear ensure the clutch is engaged....this will help to prevent the chain coming off the front rings. If you decide to convert permanently to 1x10 then consider buying an intermediate size narrow-wide chainring with 30, 32 or 34 teeth. These have longer teeth and do not drop the chain so easily. Post a photo if you can.Many thanks. Shifter on handlebar ...always wanted to change to 1 x 10. I have a clutch and it normally stays engaged. Longer in teeth sounds better then normally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbride Posted October 25, 2015 Share Need to replace my cassette, and have a new cassette and chain to put on. Do i need to replace my nw raceface as well, or can i use it with the new chain and casette eg is it suggested to just replace everything at once, or can the chainring last 2 chains? Will the chainring causes premature wear on the new chain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAAHIRWP Posted December 13, 2015 Share So I went 1x10 from 2x10. I swapped our the sram crank and bb for shimano zee crank with kitted narrow wide chain ring.Here I get a sound similar to that of a dry bb bearing or when hubs needs a service.... I dunno.. Hard to explain. Then on my sram 1050 cassette I included a 16T and 40T wolftooth range extender. Oh, and I bought a new 1071 hollow pin chain. So... my cassette has about 1400km on it. The problem I now have is that sometimes the chain goes like "gagaga" when I shift. Sounds like I'm going to break something. Usually when shifting to heavier gear. Can't say exactly which gear though. What's up with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted December 14, 2015 Share So I went 1x10 from 2x10. I swapped our the sram crank and bb for shimano zee crank with kitted narrow wide chain ring.Here I get a sound similar to that of a dry bb bearing or when hubs needs a service.... I dunno.. Hard to explain. Then on my sram 1050 cassette I included a 16T and 40T wolftooth range extender. Oh, and I bought a new 1071 hollow pin chain. So... my cassette has about 1400km on it. The problem I now have is that sometimes the chain goes like "gagaga" when I shift. Sounds like I'm going to break something. Usually when shifting to heavier gear. Can't say exactly which gear though. What's up with that?Your chainline has probably altered with the new crank. You may need to add or remove spacer shims to correct it.Issue at the rear on shifting.....maybe check b screw and adjust it just enough for the big cog to work properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptor-22 Posted December 14, 2015 Share Medium or long cage rear derailleur? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeffer Posted December 14, 2015 Share Front derailleur question: Bought a new frame and want to build my old Raleigh onto it. I see that it has a direct mount for the front derailleur while my old bike has a clamp mounted Tiagra derailleur. Any advice?Do I buy a direct mount derailleur?Cant seem to find a Tiagra online, can I use a 105/Ultegra? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAAHIRWP Posted December 14, 2015 Share Your chainline has probably altered with the new crank. You may need to add or remove spacer shims to correct it.Issue at the rear on shifting.....maybe check b screw and adjust it just enough for the big cog to work properly.Shims? Where? I have a zee crank which came with a spacer (which looks like a thick washer) between the spider and chain ring. The B screw.... I'll try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAAHIRWP Posted December 14, 2015 Share Medium or long cage rear derailleur?Don't know if you are referring to me... but I think it's the medium cage or long... I'm not too sure. X9 type 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptor-22 Posted December 14, 2015 Share YEs my question is directed at you Taahir.reason I asked is if its a medium cage 2x10 derailleur It may not have enough capacity to handle the range your drivetrain has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted December 14, 2015 Share Shims? Where? I have a zee crank which came with a spacer (which looks like a thick washer) between the spider and chain ring. The B screw.... I'll try that.Yes that spacer washer and you can also put spacers between the chainring and crank....but Zee is a dedicated 1x crank IIRC so it should not need this. Check your chainline....which rear cog does the chainring line up on....use a straight steel ruler or similar stiff thin straight edge to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAAHIRWP Posted December 14, 2015 Share Yes that spacer washer and you can also put spacers between the chainring and crank....but Zee is a dedicated 1x crank IIRC so it should not need this. Check your chainline....which rear cog does the chainring line up on....use a straight steel ruler or similar stiff thin straight edge to check.Okay ill check which it lines up on...There is an ever so slight kink in the chain line when I place the chain on the 11T cog.The kink is at two places... near the cassette, and then near the chain ring up front.When the chain is on the 40T at the back then there is only a slight kink near the chain ring. Feels like I should just remove the spacers (looks like 5 or 7mm wide), situated below each of the spider arms.... like a "nut", through which the bolt goes. Apparently the KITTED rings do make a noise for the first few 200km or so... after that is quite. I dunno, time will tell.Hopefully getting the ideal chain line will also improve performance. But regarding my cassette...It's the mid cogs that sometimes changes with a "gagaga" like I'm going to break something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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