Zula Posted November 14, 2011 Share Afternoon everyone I just acquired a new set of wheels which I intend to use more for racing and the longer training rides after the DC next weekend. I realized this weekend what a big difference the race wheels made and I recon its far better training with the heavier wheels and racing with the lighter ones. Not to mention I can see how much brake pads are going to set me back every month if I keep going at the current rate. My question is. I currently have 3300k's on my drive train and I think the chain is ready to be replaced. So I wanted to find out what others do regarding training and racing wheels in terms of cassettes and chains. Does each wheel set have its own cassette? and if so doesn't the chain the cause an issue assuming you use your training wheels more than the racing ones. I was intending on buying 2 new cassettes and a new chain, but after reading around I think I am better off just swapping the cassette around every time. Yes its time consuming but seeing as I already have to change the brake pads, its not that much more time consuming. Your comments please Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTB_Roadie Posted November 14, 2011 Share Afternoon everyone I just acquired a new set of wheels which I intend to use more for racing and the longer training rides after the DC next weekend. I realized this weekend what a big difference the race wheels made and I recon its far better training with the heavier wheels and racing with the lighter ones. Not to mention I can see how much brake pads are going to set me back every month if I keep going at the current rate. My question is. I currently have 3300k's on my drive train and I think the chain is ready to be replaced. So I wanted to find out what others do regarding training and racing wheels in terms of cassettes and chains. Does each wheel set have its own cassette? and if so doesn't the chain the cause an issue assuming you use your training wheels more than the racing ones. I was intending on buying 2 new cassettes and a new chain, but after reading around I think I am better off just swapping the cassette around every time. Yes its time consuming but seeing as I already have to change the brake pads, its not that much more time consuming. Your comments please Thank you Buy the yellow Swisstop brake pads....I done it, you can run Alu rims and Carbon rims with them I have a cassette on training wheels and race wheels....I clean my chain often and cassette. I have not have any problems yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted November 14, 2011 Share Buy the yellow Swisstop brake pads....I done it, you can run Alu rims and Carbon rims with them I have a cassette on training wheels and race wheels....I clean my chain often and cassette. I have not have any problems yet I got the yellow pads. They seem to wear down quickly. Ja the 2 cassette solution is probably the answer but it comes at a cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like-A-Boss Posted November 14, 2011 Share What I do is run a top-end cassette on the racing wheels, in my case DA, and on the training wheels, the more durable, but heavier 105 cassette. This way, the training cassette, which stacks on the km's, doesn't wear so quick, and the extra weight is not an issue. You could save a bit of cash in the long run this way around, as your DA cassette wouldn't need replacing as often as your 105...which is quite a bit cheaper... Just my 2c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTB_Roadie Posted November 14, 2011 Share I got the yellow pads. They seem to wear down quickly. Ja the 2 cassette solution is probably the answer but it comes at a cost. I noticed that, i just brake less now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted November 14, 2011 Share What I do is run a top-end cassette on the racing wheels, in my case DA, and on the training wheels, the more durable, but heavier 105 cassette. This way, the training cassette, which stacks on the km's, doesn't wear so quick, and the extra weight is not an issue. You could save a bit of cash in the long run this way around, as your DA cassette wouldn't need replacing as often as your 105...which is quite a bit cheaper... Just my 2c Do you run 2 different chains? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like-A-Boss Posted November 14, 2011 Share No, just use a DA chain for both sets. Suppose you could use a more durable chain (lower end) for training, with a removable link...easy and quick enough to swop out chains then too... Starting to sound like a lot work though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubba Posted November 14, 2011 Share I would say 2 cassettes and 2 chains. Each cassette having their own chain (with quick link) this would enable the set to wear evenly as a pair, therefore lasting longer. Also easier and quicker to change the chain around then the cassette. In theory you would not need to replace either for a while if you use the training wheel set-up on shorter rides and the carbons on longer rides/races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted November 14, 2011 Share May I suggest you guys look at the pinned article on the Great Cassette debate (or such) with the PDF attachment: Everything You need to Know about Bicycle Chains. Here you will learn that. 1) All chains are equally durable. They're made from the same steel. 2) A chain that's still within spec will not damage a cassette that's only worked on another bike with a chain that's also still in spec. In other words, swap freely but keep an eye on your chain and make sure it is not worn beyond spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted November 14, 2011 Share I would say 2 cassettes and 2 chains. Each cassette having their own chain (with quick link) this would enable the set to wear evenly as a pair, therefore lasting longer. Also easier and quicker to change the chain around then the cassette. In theory you would not need to replace either for a while if you use the training wheel set-up on shorter rides and the carbons on longer rides/races. Probably ideal in a perfect world. I want to maximize the life from my current cassette and chainrings so I reckon a new chain and swapping cassettes will be the order for the next few months. Once the cassette and chainrings are toast, the dual cassette dual chain options will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted November 14, 2011 Share May I suggest you guys look at the pinned article on the Great Cassette debate (or such) with the PDF attachment: Everything You need to Know about Bicycle Chains. Here you will learn that. 1) All chains are equally durable. They're made from the same steel. 2) A chain that's still within spec will not damage a cassette that's only worked on another bike with a chain that's also still in spec. In other words, swap freely but keep an eye on your chain and make sure it is not worn beyond spec. Thanks JB So two cassettes and one chain will suffice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuge Posted November 14, 2011 Share if you replace your chain fairly regularly - i.e. just as it wears to 1/8 inch past 12 inches (google it), then you should go be able to through a few chains before your cassette needs replacing due to wear. just keep it clean - prolongs life more than you can imagine option 1: just get a new chain (sounds like you need it anyway) and change the cassette from your training wheels to your race wheels as needed (bit of a pain, but can be done quickly once you get the hang of it). i did this for a while, no worries. option 2: get a new chain and cassette. put the new cassette on your training wheels to "bed" in a bit. when you race, switch the new cassette onto your racing wheels and keep the old cassette on your training wheels. convenience personified. keep your chain and cassette clean, seriously prolongs component life. btw, if you're concerned about cost, there's really nothing wrong with 105, seriously. edit - i see you beat me to it, jb! good answer Edited November 14, 2011 by the (other) Nuge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minion Posted November 14, 2011 Share What kind of riding are you doing that you're only getting 3,300km out of a road chain? I'm currently sitting on around 5,000+km with still a fair amount of life left (I wouldn't be too surprised if it reaches 10,000km). I run different cassettes on my racing and training wheels for convenience, more than anything else; although there is something to be said for leaving the expensive, soft titanium cassette on the low-mileage race wheels and putting something cheaper and more durable on the high-mileage training wheels. For various reasons, I've accumulated quite a collection of cassettes. Apart from miscellaneous spares lying around, I've got:1x almost new Veloce cassette on my IDT1x well-used Chorus cassette on my training wheels2x partially used Record cassettes (11-23, 12-25) for my racing wheels I've had no issues swapping between the three with the same chain. At most I have to turn the barrel adjuster 1/2 a turn either way to get perfect shifting. This is, however, due to slightly different hub offsets on one, rather than anything to do with the cassette. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zula Posted November 14, 2011 Share What kind of riding are you doing that you're only getting 3,300km out of a road chain? I'm currently sitting on around 5,000+km with still a fair amount of life left (I wouldn't be too surprised if it reaches 10,000km). I run different cassettes on my racing and training wheels for convenience, more than anything else; although there is something to be said for leaving the expensive, soft titanium cassette on the low-mileage race wheels and putting something cheaper and more durable on the high-mileage training wheels. For various reasons, I've accumulated quite a collection of cassettes. Apart from miscellaneous spares lying around, I've got:1x almost new Veloce cassette on my IDT1x well-used Chorus cassette on my training wheels2x partially used Record cassettes (11-23, 12-25) for my racing wheels I've had no issues swapping between the three with the same chain. At most I have to turn the barrel adjuster 1/2 a turn either way to get perfect shifting. This is, however, due to slightly different hub offsets on one, rather than anything to do with the cassette. I generate immense amounts of power which results in premature wear of my chains To be honest, I'm not too sure. I must admit I use a park tool chain checker which I know is not the ideal way to check and certain folk here would have me banished for mentioning something so blasphemous. I am searching for an inch ruler though! Multiple cassettes does sounds like the way to go and I will do that in due course. Just feeling the pinch after dropping several ZAR's on the race wheels and the though of another R1k - R2k isn't very appealing. Thanks for your comments! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minion Posted November 14, 2011 Share Multiple cassettes does sounds like the way to go and I will do that in due course. Just feeling the pinch after dropping several ZAR's on the race wheels and the though of another R1k - R2k isn't very appealing.It shouldn't be that much. R500-R600 for a Veloce or 105 cassette. Less if you can get one second hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubba Posted November 14, 2011 Share It shouldn't be that much. R500-R600 for a Veloce or 105 cassette. Less if you can get one second hand.R260 for 105 10sp chainR499 for 105 10sp cassette. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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