dracs Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) I recently acquired some Fulcrum Racing 1's... Plan was to use them as race wheels and my original Mavic Aksiums as training wheels... TO ensure easy interchangeability (and because they were tired anyway) at the same time I replaced my cassette on the old rear wheel, and replaced the chain as well... So I have identical cassettes on the 2 rear wheels... My expectation therefore was I will be able to simply swap out the wheels as required and off I go. Seems however that I cannot get the gear settings just right with both wheels? If one is ok the other will not shift into the highest gear (or will only do so while scraping the FD)... Perhaps there is a slight difference in width of the wheels? Any (easy) solutions to this that don't involve fiddling with the gears each time I swap wheels? Disclaimer - I am technically challenged... tks Edited February 7, 2012 by dracs
TNT1 Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 Your expectation is correct. Axle width doesn't matter (wheel width as you put it) as the derailleur works on the width of the cassette. To eliminate the obvious, are they both (the cassettes) compatible with your gruppo?
dracs Posted February 7, 2012 Author Posted February 7, 2012 Yup! Everything is 105 10 sp (RD, cassettes, crank, FD and shifters) except for the chain which is Ultegra (not because i wanted to save 5g but because I had it lying around after picking it up a while ago cheap cheap on a special)...
Minion Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 It usually happens when the distance from the dropout to the first cassette sprocket is slightly different. You could probably get around it by putting a shim between the hub body and the cassette or between the hub body and the axle on one of the wheels.Alternatively, you just need to keep track of how many turns of the barrel adjuster are required to adjust for each wheel.
Super J Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 I have the same problem,its the hub/free wheel body spacing! It can be set by a good bike machanic,they usually space the free wheel body on the actual axle where it fits onto the rear hub with a thin spacer............
TNT1 Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) It usually happens when the distance from the dropout to the first cassette sprocket is slightly different. Agree. Unless the spaces at the other end of the cassette are different as well? Ah ha: I have the same problem,its the hub/free wheel body spacing! It can be set by a good bike machanic,they usually space the free wheel body on the actual axle where it fits onto the rear hub with a thin spacer............ Edited February 7, 2012 by TNT1
Wannabe Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 Did you insert the thin "shim / spacer" between your cassette and the freebody on both wheels? If you left it out on one wheel, it is enough to cause the problem you are having.Had exact same problem with my Ksyrium SSC SL's (racing) and Rolf Vector Comp's (training), until I put the spacer in on the Mavic's. Presto, problem solved.
Let's Ride Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 What I did is take the bike with race wheels and made sure the training wheels worked without much hassle. Tension of the rd needs to be adjusted but only a tad. Why not take it to a bicycle shop with both wheels and ask them to help you???
TNT1 Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 Why not take it to a bicycle shop with both wheels and ask them to help you??? Cause DIY, learning, is so much more satisfying...
Let's Ride Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 True, but they will fix it quickly. One cassette is probably missing a spacer which they could have etc.
dracs Posted February 7, 2012 Author Posted February 7, 2012 Cause DIY, learning, is so much more satisfying... usually DIY in my case is the exact opposite of satisfying!! But thanks all - you have given me a good few pointers to see if I can figure it out for myself! Wannabe - flip you have got me wondering now - will have a look when I get home! Anyway if I cock it up badly enough I guess I will just do R4S on my Mountain bike and drop the road bike + 4 wheels at my LBS as PA suggests!
TNT1 Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 usually DIY in my case is the exact opposite of satisfying!! But thanks all - you have given me a good few pointers to see if I can figure it out for myself! Wannabe - flip you have got me wondering now - will have a look when I get home! Anyway if I cock it up badly enough I guess I will just do R4S on my Mountain bike and drop the road bike + 4 wheels at my LBS as PA suggests! I think wannabe is spot on.
Minion Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 Did you insert the thin "shim / spacer" between your cassette and the freebody on both wheels? If you left it out on one wheel, it is enough to cause the problem you are having.Very good point. Here's the spacer in question:
dracs Posted February 15, 2012 Author Posted February 15, 2012 Very good point. Here's the spacer in question: Thanks again all. Just to close the loop on this, it would seem that the spacer is in place on both wheels, however for some reason the spacer on one is noticiby thicker than the other. I guess this may be enough to cause the issue, but not having suitable bits and pieces lying around I will get my LBS to take a look next time I take the bike in for some TLC. In the mean time, the upshot is I have gotten gotten a whole lot better at adjusting my gears since am doing it a couple of times a week... so actually not such a bind anymore...
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