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Posted

Several trips up and down the long driveway and about 6 unclips on each trip safely negotiated.... rode through the front door and almost wiped out as my pedal hit a kids toy and as I lost balance my foot did not go down as it should! :)

 

Let's get out there and see what happens when that happens on the trails :D

Take a camera :clap:

And a friend to use the camera :thumbup:

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Posted

Easy...

  1. Never try to unclip at the top of your pedal stroke as you will the least amount of movement available in your knee
  2. Should you battle to unclip give another half a pedal stroke to gain a bit more momentum and buy you some time.

Falling happens most often when you're going close to 0km/h and you're still battling to get your foot out!

Posted

Good advice. I found that in my driveway expedition. Unclip prior to coming to a stop. Prepare for what is coming. I suppose the one risk area is where I would normally stick a foot down but now can't...

Posted

Good advice. I found that in my driveway expedition. Unclip prior to coming to a stop. Prepare for what is coming. I suppose the one risk area is where I would normally stick a foot down but now can't...

 

Good luck with that!

Posted (edited)

When it comes to helmets... I have a graph I found (in a scientific research journal), which explains the delicate balance to be considered when buying a helmet.

 

post-10758-0-85907200-1340283102.jpg

 

As you can see from this highly scientific graph, the cost of a helmet is mostly affected by its fancyness.

 

I have the following lids:

  • Fox Flux trail/AM helmet (approx R1000)
  • Scott Fuga XC helmet (approx R1200)
  • 661 Evo Fullface helmet (approx R1500)
  • Bluegrass Dirt Jump helmet (approx R500)
  • No Name Dirt Jump helmet (approx R150)

... hardest head-to-ground bail I've had to date was in the cheapest helmet. I got flung over the bars whilst dirt jumping and landed directly on my head from approx 2.5m.

 

...and do you know what... it did its job just perfectly! Sure it was hot and stuffy, and it weighed atleast twice as much as a fancy XC lid... but it was safe enough!

 

So going back to the extremely scientific graph... the cost of a helmet is mostly affected by the ventilation and weight. In fact, cheaper helmets mean more materials, and possibly safer.

Edited by patches
Posted

When it comes to helmets... I have a graph I found (in a scientific research journal), which explains the delicate balance to be considered when buying a helmet.

 

post-10758-0-85907200-1340283102.jpg

 

As you can see from this highly scientific graph, the cost of a helmet is mostly affected by its fancyness.

 

I have the following lids:

  • Fox Flux trail/AM helmet (approx R1000)
  • Scott Fuga XC helmet (approx R1200)
  • 661 Evo Fullface helmet (approx R1500)
  • Bluegrass Dirt Jump helmet (approx R500)
  • No Name Dirt Jump helmet (approx R150)

... hardest head-to-ground bail I've had to date was in the cheapest helmet. I got flung over the bars whilst dirt jumping and landed directly on my head from approx 2.5m.

 

...and do you know what... it did its job just perfectly! Sure it was hot and stuffy, and it weighed atleast twice as much as a fancy XC lid... but it was safe enough!

 

So going back to the extremely scientific graph... the cost of a helmet is mostly affected by the ventilation and weight. In fact, cheaper helmets mean more materials, and possibly safer.

 

Fully agree and have argued this before on here! "Buy a R200 helmet for a R200 head" is a brilliant salesman speech...

 

I would prefer you to do some more field tests to back your theory. Also, take a camera along. :thumbup:

 

I've posted a link to this research elsewhere but I'll do it again:

 

http://www.helmets.org/testbycost.htm

 

I am literally upgrading my helmet based on the air flow argument. Mine is boiling. I could spend R600 on a normal priced "decent" helmet or R1000 for a bargain RP Sterling. I'm leaning towards the latter.

Posted (edited)

Ok, so I am going to rely on you guys to steer me in one direction or another. I have asked a few questions about goodies on here and have listened to what was said but now I need to decide. I know many will say just do it but I need to see whether it makes sense.

 

I have a R4,500 bike!

 

I am now looking at R1,000 Specialized Comp MTB shoes. R400 Shimano M530 MTB pedals. And a R1000 Rudy Project Sterling helmet.

 

These goodies will cost me R2,400 which is more than half the value of my bike! If my bike was R20,000 it would make sense but am I mad thinking about doing this?

 

What is the other option? Get R400 shoes, a R300 helmet and R200 pedals for a total of R900? Just stick with my takkies, flat pedals and crappy hot helmet?

 

Yes, I am thinking out loud here but let's get opinions.

 

Thanks :)

 

Good helmet and shoes are essential but you dont need top of the range bling.. The Specialized shoes are great even at entry level...Giro` Indicator`(i think?) helmet is good entry level helmet and should be around R600. The Fox helmets are brilliant value and should also be under a grand. Rudy helmets are for roadies man!

Edited by DirtyFrank
Posted (edited)

I would prefer you to do some more field tests to back your theory. Also, take a camera along. :thumbup:

 

The graph is based on feild tests which I have already conducted.

 

The weight test is simple... does it fall off when you acidentally leave it on your car roof after a ride and drive the precise distance from 1 KFC to another. If it stays put, it can be classified as a "cheap heavy" helmet. If it has vanished, it was a "expensive light helmet"

 

The ventilation test is also relatively simple. Put the helmet on a bald test subject. Make him/her (we don't discriminate against bald or bearded ladies) ride the precise distance from one Mochachos to another (considerably further than the KFC method of measuring displacement). After distance is covered, wipe subects head with standard tissue, and weigh. If net weight (excluding tissue) is more than 5g, then the helmet is "cheap and sweaty". If less, the helmet is "expensive and well ventilated".

 

The "Fast Looking" test. Wearing each test helmet, ride up to the nearest Vide Cafe on a saturday morning and see how many lycra-clad patrons stare (with envy) at the top of your head for more than 5sec. If the percentage of gazers is less than 63.2%, then the helmet is a "cheap crap looking helmet". If more, then the helmet is considered "expensive and 'fast looking'"... simple!

 

Lastly... the impact testing... this is more complex...

 

My 'involuntary dismount' style is such that I don't often hit my head (convenient for me. not so convenient for science).

 

But on the few occasions that I have hit it hard... the "cheap-heavy-sweaty-crap looking" helmet still looked crap (and didn't suffer any other performance defects). The "expensive-light-breezy-fast-looking" helmet got a dent and the peak fell off, and therefore became "expensive-lighter-breezy(with-no-sun-shading)-crap-looking"

 

There you have it! Science!

Edited by patches
Posted

Oooh! I just think I might pass most of those tests with this baby! :)

 

http://www.mognettibike.it/images/Ebay/Blak%20red%20silver%20titanium_600.jpg

Posted

Oooh! I just think I might pass most of those tests with this baby! :)

 

http://www.mognettibike.it/images/Ebay/Blak%20red%20silver%20titanium_600.jpg

 

That should go perfectly with the Nishiki

Posted

piece of mind comes with a better helmet.

 

with china being a huge manufacturer in any instance you dont know what quality you are getting.

 

paying that bit extra for a decent brand (should) buy some piece of mind (yes there are exceptions) and yes i know all the helmets clint has mentioned are good. merely saying dont get a mr P special and expect the same as the low end bells etc

Posted

Not all decisions have to make sense. Sometimes its ok to buy stuff just because you like it! :thumbup:

 

 

...and not be able to eat properly for the next few weeks! ;)

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