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Posted

Aest is good fong kong , no comparison with Hope

Hope are the hub masters - Go with Hope , never look back , never stop smiling

smile.png

I've never come across Aest hubs but is seems you have. Tell us a bit about them. Are the shells forged or CNC'd?

What pawl system does it use? How many bearings and of what size in the hub? In the freehub?

What pre-load system works between the axles and bearings?

Are the seals lip or labyrinth or both?

Their country of origin is irrelevant, engineering and manufacturing isn't.

Posted (edited)

]

Spoke holes: F16x2/R16x2[/font]

Sealed bearings: F2/R4[/font]

O.L.D: F100mm/R135mm[/font]

P.C.D: F66mm/R58mm [/font]

Axle: FØ9x108mm/RØ10x145mm[/font]

F.T.F: F61/R57mm[/font]

Offset: F6mm/R8mm[/font]

Pawls: 3[/font]

AL6061-T6[/font]

MTB HUB[/font]

Weight: F176g/R322g[/font]

CNC Machine and Anodized[/font]

 

http://cloud.lbox.me/desc_image/201110/iupq1319425786609.jpg

Johan, this is what i found on the internet, thanks in advance for your input

Edited by Mike Bike
Posted

I've never come across Aest hubs but is seems you have. Tell us a bit about them. Are the shells forged or CNC'd?

What pawl system does it use? How many bearings and of what size in the hub? In the freehub?

What pre-load system works between the axles and bearings?

Are the seals lip or labyrinth or both?

Their country of origin is irrelevant, engineering and manufacturing isn't.

 

Judging by who I have seen selling Aest hubs - budget eBay sellers , Dealextreme etc and the price they sell for I can guarantee you they are no where near Hope hubs ........ And thats what the OP wants to know.

 

No long story needed :)

Posted

What makes a good hub?

 

1) Industry standards. If the hub uses standard or readily-available bearings, pawls and seals, then maintenance is not an issue.

2) Forging over CNC. If it is forged, it will be expensive. Forging allows for less material to be used with a better finish, than CNC work. It would be lighter and stronger. Strength is required in the thin centre part of the hub as well as on the flanges to prevent spoke-induced cracks.

3) Effective sealing. A good hub has a contact and non-contact seal on each side. The design of the non-contact (labyringth) seal is crucial to the hub's performance in the wet.

4) Bearing pre-load adjustments. Lots of manufacturers leave pre-load adjustment out of the hub in order to save costs. This costs you in the long run, payable in prematurely failed bearings.

5) Steel where steel is required, aluminium where aluminium is required. Superlight hubs are almost always rubbish. This includes Zipp with its simplistic axle and stupid light bearings. American Classic is slightly better in terms of axle design but the bearings are undersized for their application. Many other examples exist. Hubs need steel in order to work effectively. Axle ends need to be steel. The knurls on the jamb nuts need to be steel. Any parts where allen keys fit need to be steel.

6. They be configured in such a way that the wheelbuilder requires the minimum number of different spoke lenghs when building a pair of wheels.

7) They won't feature stupid foohfees like radial one side and crossed on the other.

8) They will have an inboard and outboard ball bearing supporting the freewheel. Mavic fails big-time.

9) The pawls will be simple to service and spares preferrably generic.

10) Seals will be standard industrial seals.

11) They will weigh what it takes them to include all the above features.

 

Hope scores on some of these fronts but not all. Shimano steel axle hubs score on most of these fronts. Campag scores on each and every one except standard seals and bearings.

 

The hub in questioned and pictured above looks a lot like a Novatec OEM product. Same as the Powertap hub that is also Novatec based. The picture and specs are not enough to make a thorough assessment but I suspect is is an OK hub. Problem is spares.Who supports it and where will you get new pawls and pawl springs?

Posted

mike, here is a link to the novatec hubs I've just bought

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novatec-Mountain-Bike-Hubs-For-Shimano-32-Black-/270975225778?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3f1761cfb2

 

search "novatec shimano hub" from e-bay home page the same guys normally auction off a set every 3 or 4 days. (got a set for $65 before postage)

 

I just really hope Johan doesn't tell me that I've bought a bunch of poo hubs if he clicks on the linkmellow.png

 

I liked that bearings are standard and you can replace the freehub with a shimano when the time comes, and there a few places online that sell spares

Posted (edited)

What makes a good hub?

 

1) Industry standards. If the hub uses standard or readily-available bearings, pawls and seals, then maintenance is not an issue.

2) Forging over CNC. If it is forged, it will be expensive. Forging allows for less material to be used with a better finish, than CNC work. It would be lighter and stronger. Strength is required in the thin centre part of the hub as well as on the flanges to prevent spoke-induced cracks.

3) Effective sealing. A good hub has a contact and non-contact seal on each side. The design of the non-contact (labyringth) seal is crucial to the hub's performance in the wet.

4) Bearing pre-load adjustments. Lots of manufacturers leave pre-load adjustment out of the hub in order to save costs. This costs you in the long run, payable in prematurely failed bearings.

5) Steel where steel is required, aluminium where aluminium is required. Superlight hubs are almost always rubbish. This includes Zipp with its simplistic axle and stupid light bearings. American Classic is slightly better in terms of axle design but the bearings are undersized for their application. Many other examples exist. Hubs need steel in order to work effectively. Axle ends need to be steel. The knurls on the jamb nuts need to be steel. Any parts where allen keys fit need to be steel.

6. They be configured in such a way that the wheelbuilder requires the minimum number of different spoke lenghs when building a pair of wheels.

7) They won't feature stupid foohfees like radial one side and crossed on the other.

8) They will have an inboard and outboard ball bearing supporting the freewheel. Mavic fails big-time.

9) The pawls will be simple to service and spares preferrably generic.

10) Seals will be standard industrial seals.

11) They will weigh what it takes them to include all the above features.

 

Hope scores on some of these fronts but not all. Shimano steel axle hubs score on most of these fronts. Campag scores on each and every one except standard seals and bearings.

 

The hub in questioned and pictured above looks a lot like a Novatec OEM product. Same as the Powertap hub that is also Novatec based. The picture and specs are not enough to make a thorough assessment but I suspect is is an OK hub. Problem is spares.Who supports it and where will you get new pawls and pawl springs?

 

You forgot the sound when freewheeling... its very important and makes you go faster. Like an angry bee. I'm sure those riders in Cape Pioneer rode very fast. I9 sounds broken & Hope too loud. There is only one ring to rule them all... you guessed it... the King... Chris King!

Edited by ichnusa
Posted

mike, here is a link to the novatec hubs I've just bought

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3f1761cfb2

 

search "novatec shimano hub" from e-bay home page the same guys normally auction off a set every 3 or 4 days. (got a set for $65 before postage)

 

I just really hope Johan doesn't tell me that I've bought a bunch of poo hubs if he clicks on the linkmellow.png

 

I liked that bearings are standard and you can replace the freehub with a shimano when the time comes, and there a few places online that sell spares

 

Ja! I clicked on the link and I laaik. Those Novatek's are nice. Also, they're so cheap that when your Powertap freewheel fails, you just buy a Novatek and sacrifice it's freewheel.

 

Just one think. Shimano freewheels wont work on there, they're cup-and-cone and these are cartridge.

Posted

You forgot the sound when freewheeling... its very important and makes you go faster. Like an angry bee. I'm sure those riders in Cape Pioneer rode very fast. I9 sounds broken & Hope too loud. There is only one ring to rule them all... you guessed it... the King... Chris King!

 

I agree 100%

Posted

Ja! I clicked on the link and I laaik. Those Novatek's are nice. Also, they're so cheap that when your Powertap freewheel fails, you just buy a Novatek and sacrifice it's freewheel.

 

Just one think. Shimano freewheels wont work on there, they're cup-and-cone and these are cartridge.

 

oops.gif I'm must have miss read or missinterperated interpereted, I guess they must have been talking about cassette compatibility and not free wheelwhistling.gif

Posted

mike, here is a link to the novatec hubs I've just bought

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3f1761cfb2

 

search "novatec shimano hub" from e-bay home page the same guys normally auction off a set every 3 or 4 days. (got a set for $65 before postage)

 

I just really hope Johan doesn't tell me that I've bought a bunch of poo hubs if he clicks on the linkmellow.png

 

I liked that bearings are standard and you can replace the freehub with a shimano when the time comes, and there a few places online that sell spares

We also stock those....

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