Chain replace: What to buy

[D-Mike]

I have done 3500km on my road bike with Shimano 105 components, and its time to replace the chain. I have never done this before and need some guidance. I have read several of the threads but they have not quite answered my questions.

 

1) What chain would you buy? What is the best value for money?

 

2) What master (quick release) link would you use? Are the links re-useable. Is there a special technique required to fit them?

 

3) Obviously I need a chain breaker. What chain breaker would you get? I am not look for something state of the art, just basic that is reliable and will do the job?

 

4) What oil do you use for lubricating the chain? I read the article "Everything you need to know about bicycle chains" and understand that wax is no good.

[udxcob]

Kmc gold

[davetapson]

I commute. Got sick and tired of replacing drive train components. Now use cheapest chain (Giant Super-flex or something - R91) and a steel cassette - can't remember what it's called - Shimano HG-51?

 

Probably weighs 150g more than stuff that costs 4 x the price, and so far both chain and cassette have lasted nearly a year, plus one Sani and one BnB.

 

You ain't gonna get that with fancy components.

 

(Oh, and an XTR derailleur doesn't seem to know that it's shifty 'crappy' components - works just fine.)

 

And to answer your questions properly:

1. Cheapest

2. Any that the bike shop have.

3. Choose a multitool with a chain breaker. A good one - Park tools or Topeak will do.

4. Oil. I use motorcross oil based chain lube (motorex) - is light and non-sticky. I've run out so just using 3-in-1 that was on my workbench prior to 94.7. If I didn't have that, I'd've used engine oil. Run the chain through a rag to remove as much external oil as possible if you can be bothered.

Edited November 28, 2012 by davetapson

[alsoran]

I have done 3500km on my road bike with Shimano 105 components, and its time to replace the chain. I have never done this before and need some guidance. I have read several of the threads but they have not quite answered my questions.

 

1) What chain would you buy? What is the best value for money?

 

2) What master (quick release) link would you use? Are the links re-useable. Is there a special technique required to fit them?

 

3) Obviously I need a chain breaker. What chain breaker would you get? I am not look for something state of the art, just basic that is reliable and will do the job?

 

4) What oil do you use for lubricating the chain? I read the article "Everything you need to know about bicycle chains" and understand that wax is no good.

 

I just replaced mine with same components of original a 105 chain and cassette.

 

Nothing fancy but it worked for the first 4500km so...

 

Use white lightning(wl) clean ride in summer and wl epic in winter. Might not be the best but once again has worked so far...

[CAAD4]

I commute. Got sick and tired of replacing drive train components. Now use cheapest chain (Giant Super-flex or something - R91) and a steel cassette - can't remember what it's called - Shimano HG-51?

 

Probably weighs 150g more than stuff that costs 4 x the price, and so far both chain and cassette have lasted nearly a year, plus one Sani and one BnB.

 

You ain't gonna get that with fancy components.

 

(Oh, and an XTR derailleur doesn't seem to know that it's shifty 'crappy' components - works just fine.)

 

And to answer your questions properly:

1. Cheapest

2. Any that the bike shop have.

3. Choose a multitool with a chain breaker. A good one - Park tools or Topeak will do.

4. Oil. I use motorcross oil based chain lube (motorex) - is light and non-sticky. I've run out so just using 3-in-1 that was on my workbench prior to 94.7. If I didn't have that, I'd've used engine oil. Run the chain through a rag to remove as much external oil as possible if you can be bothered.

 

Dave are those the chains in the blue Giant box?

[Minion]

I have done 3500km on my road bike with Shimano 105 components, and its time to replace the chain. I have never done this before and need some guidance. I have read several of the threads but they have not quite answered my questions.

 

1) What chain would you buy? What is the best value for money?

 

2) What master (quick release) link would you use? Are the links re-useable. Is there a special technique required to fit them?

 

3) Obviously I need a chain breaker. What chain breaker would you get? I am not look for something state of the art, just basic that is reliable and will do the job?

 

4) What oil do you use for lubricating the chain? I read the article "Everything you need to know about bicycle chains" and understand that wax is no good.

1.) Pretty much any 10sp chain will work. Value for money? There was a post on one of the innumerable chain threads with a link to a Tour magazine wear test. Campag chains faired very well, Shimano too, I think. SRAM, not so well. I currently have about 7000km on a Record chain and it's at only .25% wear, but I seldom ride in the rain and I clean and lube it regularly.

2.) Any except the SRAM 10sp Powerlock link. SRAM links are not supposed to be reusable and are hard to remove. I quite like the KMC ones - reusable and easy to install and remove.

3.) It depends on how often you plan to use it. A good multitool will work for occasional use, while a dedicated one like the Park Tool is much more user-friendly.

4.) I use some oil that I found lying around somewhere. I apply it to each link with a blunt hyperdermic. If I ever run out, I'll replace it with motor oil.

[carbon29er]

If weight doesn't bother you go with the HG51 or SRAM PG 1031 or PG1051. All 3 will last...

 

Use the KMC chain link, the only 10 speed re-usable link.

 

I have the park tool chain breaker, the park tool multi tool chain breaker and a chain breaker on the topeak multi tool I used to carry before I bought the Lezyne C-10.

 

All work fine, specific tool is easier to use but not worth the expense if you change a chain once a year. the multi tool ones are fine if you have KMC chain links.

[Azonic]

I've had good experience with YBN chains. Cheap, and very nice. Speak to Voigt on TheHub.

Edited November 28, 2012 by Azonic

[rudi-h]

Just a general comment:

Most bike shops advise you to get a new chain & cassette way earlier than it is really required, cause they make profit from it.

 

I ride a chain / cassette until a) the chain breaks or b ) the gears start to jump.

 

I have had my roadbike with Tiagra components since 2006. Have done very many 1000's of km's on it and not even thinking about replacing the chain yet. I think it must have at least 8000+km on the clock

 

Then if you have to do replace it:

Expensive chains are lighter, thus they have less steel in them = not as durable.

 

As many have said, cheap chains work a dream and are just as good. Regarding the lubes, you can search for chain lube and there will be many threads with tonnes of info. I'm a wetlube guy though (slippery is allways better!)

Edited November 28, 2012 by rudi-h

[Minion]

Expensive chains are lighter, thus they have less steel in them = not as durable.

Not necessarily. Weight saving on chains is usually achieved by hollowing out the pins and putting holes in the outer plates. This makes the plates and pin weaker, but since the chain rarely fails due to a direct failure of those two components, it doesn't make much difference. Most of the time, you'll replace a chain because of surface wear on the pins etc. Most other chains achieve weight reduction in a similar way.

 

 

If you look at the chain wear comparison tests that are out there, they do seem to show that some high end chains last longer (possibly due to better, more expensive surface treatments). For example, in Tour Magazine's test Dura-Ace outperforms 105 and Ultegra.

 

Here's the link to the earlier thread with the test data:

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/111338-chain-comparison/page__hl__chain

Edited November 29, 2012 by Minion

[rudi-h]

Not necessarily. Weight saving on chains is usually achieved by hollowing out the pins and putting holes in the outer plates. This makes the plates and pin weaker, but since the chain rarely fails due to a direct failure of those two components, it doesn't make much difference. Most of the time, you'll replace a chain because of surface wear on the pins etc. Most other chains achieve weight reduction in a similar way.

 

 

If you look at the chain wear comparison tests that are out there, they do seem to show that some high end chains last longer (possibly due to better, more expensive surface treatments). For example, in Tour Magazine's test Dura-Ace outperforms 105 and Ultegra.

 

Here's the link to the earlier thread with the test data:

http://www.thehubsa....ce-what-to-buy/

 

Thanks for the insight!

 

I've been told by numerous bike shops that the pro's using top end chains use them (on MTB) around 500-800 km's... But I guess that's because they are sponsored and not necessarily a good reflection of the chain itself.

[Pure Savage]

I have done 9000km with my tiagra chain and SRAM cassette. Just keeps going.

[D-Mike]

Not necessarily. Weight saving on chains is usually achieved by hollowing out the pins and putting holes in the outer plates. This makes the plates and pin weaker, but since the chain rarely fails due to a direct failure of those two components, it doesn't make much difference. Most of the time, you'll replace a chain because of surface wear on the pins etc. Most other chains achieve weight reduction in a similar way.

 

 

If you look at the chain wear comparison tests that are out there, they do seem to show that some high end chains last longer (possibly due to better, more expensive surface treatments). For example, in Tour Magazine's test Dura-Ace outperforms 105 and Ultegra.

 

Here's the link to the earlier thread with the test data:

http://www.thehubsa....ce-what-to-buy/

Would you mind re-posting the link. The link above is to this thread, thus a never ending circle...

[Minion]

Would you mind re-posting the link. The link above is to this thread, thus a never ending circle...

Yes, I can see how that would be a problem... I've updated the link to avoid a thread singularity.

 

Here's the correct one, too:

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/111338-chain-comparison/page__hl__chain

[davetapson]

Dave are those the chains in the blue Giant box?

 

Yep.

[davetapson]

Just a general comment:

Most bike shops advise you to get a new chain & cassette way earlier than it is really required, cause they make profit from it.

 

I ride a chain / cassette until a) the chain breaks or b ) the gears start to jump.

 

I have had my roadbike with Tiagra components since 2006. Have done very many 1000's of km's on it and not even thinking about replacing the chain yet. I think it must have at least 8000+km on the clock

 

Then if you have to do replace it:

Expensive chains are lighter, thus they have less steel in them = not as durable.

 

As many have said, cheap chains work a dream and are just as good. Regarding the lubes, you can search for chain lube and there will be many threads with tonnes of info. I'm a wetlube guy though (slippery is allways better!)

 

One of the bike shops in the E.Cape (where they feel every ZARond before they spend it) said to me that I should never change chains - just ride them till they start skipping.

 

The main problem with changing to new chains is that they skip on the cassette due to sprocket tooth wear, which means you end up buying a new cassette. And as the old worn chain was probably working perfectly with the old worn cassette, why bother with the purchase until you really need to?

 

Some people buy multiple chains and swap them around to prolong cassette life, but honestly I don't have time for that. That, and if you have time to wash your chain after every ride, it's a sure sign your faffing / riding ratio is seriously flawed... ;-)