NotSoBigBen Posted September 17, 2013 Share No chain dropping on the wolf ring without a guide? Been looking at the longer teethed (?) rings, but still nervous about not getting a guide with it. I would suppose using a long tooth or narrow/wide chainring with a guide would be a bit of belt and braces type thinking. I would personally use one or the other? If these chainrings are as good as they are made out to be then they should do what is promised - at that price anyway Clearly though a 'clutch' RD would be added assurance as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jatho Posted September 17, 2013 Share I changed from a 32 to 34 front, have the 11/40 on the back and recon it should handle most big climbs quite comfortably. You'll need to get the Wolf ring specific to your crankset The cassette conversion isnt necessary but recommended Clutch RD is not necessary nor is the chain guide because of the tooth profile on the XX1 / Wolf Rings NotSoBigBen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share I would suppose using a long tooth or narrow/wide chainring with a guide would be a bit of belt and braces type thinking. I would personally use one or the other? If these chainrings are as good as they are made out to be then they should do what is promised - at that price anyway Clearly though a 'clutch' RD would be added assurance as well Indeed. The thinking is that with the elongated, profiled teeth, your chainring does the job of the chain device, and keeps hold of the chain at all times, by virtue of hugging the chain far more tightly, as well as doing away with the shifting ramps - themselves a reason for the chain shifting. The difference over SS chainrings is the profiling. The Narrow/wide profile, effectively. This fits the chain's profiles more closely, and allows mhc more contact with the chain, keeping it on track. The necessity of a chain device (chain guide) was due to 2 things - chain slap, and the profile of the teeth (narrow teeth all round, improper chain tension) With the profile of the teeth being sorted (they're longer, and fit the chain) there's the issue of chain slap. So - number one is to get the right chain length - which a LOT of people don't have, which exacerbates the problem of chain slap, and causes the chain to derail - and then your chain slap should reduce. Battle number 2 won. So - the final question remains - is a type 2 RD really necessary, or is the narrow/wide chainring & proper chain length enough to prevent derailments? The type 2 RD certainly helps prevent derailings on normal chainrings, so its inherent chain-keeping ability is definitely there. The question is whether it is needed in addition to the Narrow/Wide chainring in order to provide the totally foolproof solution to a forever-dropping chain, and is good enough to replace the chain guide in totality. For that experiment - I shall take to the hills with my non-clutch RD, my Raceface narrow/wide and no chain guide, and test accordingly on the DH runs, XC runs and rock gardens of Tokai. Which are mightily rocky & rooty & jumptastic. The conservative part of me says that the cllutch RD (shadow plus / type 2) would be a great redundancy measure, just in case the narrow/wide chainring just isn't *quite* enough to manage the chain without a chain guide as backup. But the experimenter in me says gun it what are you waiting for, it's an extra 2k to set up a clutch RD (would be going 10 speed, so RD, shifter & cassette would need to go on) so you have everything to gain by testing it without a clutch RD... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share Clutch RD is not necessary nor is the chain guide because of the tooth profile on the XX1 / Wolf Rings Remains to be seen in my own testing, which I can assure you is far more rooty / technical than your testing, Jatho... Not jibing, just being realistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted September 17, 2013 Share Await your test results and report with bated breath Captain - should you be succesfull I will invest in a RF chainring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share Await your test results and report with bated breath Captain - should you be succesfull I will invest in a RF chainring May be a while depending on when it arrives. Should be tomorrow / wednesday, but I'm off to Durbs this weekend so it could be after that. Hope not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jatho Posted September 17, 2013 Share Remains to be seen in my own testing, which I can assure you is far more rooty / technical than your testing, Jatho... Not jibing, just being realistic. I wont argue with that, I'm giving comments based on my own experience and that of others who have tested XX1 rings for months (without dropping a chain) but there is no guarantee that you wont drop a chain, the Clutch will help no doubt but I wouldn't rush out and buy a clutch RD specifically for a 1x10 conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOBIKES ONLINE STORE Posted September 17, 2013 Share New shipment of WOLF just unpacked. RACEFACE also being loaded onto our site. ONE Shimano General Lee Convertor 29/42 also in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowta Posted September 17, 2013 Share I've Indeed. The thinking is that with the elongated, profiled teeth, your chainring does the job of the chain device, and keeps hold of the chain at all times, by virtue of hugging the chain far more tightly, as well as doing away with the shifting ramps - themselves a reason for the chain shifting. The difference over SS chainrings is the profiling. The Narrow/wide profile, effectively. This fits the chain's profiles more closely, and allows mhc more contact with the chain, keeping it on track. The necessity of a chain device (chain guide) was due to 2 things - chain slap, and the profile of the teeth (narrow teeth all round, improper chain tension) With the profile of the teeth being sorted (they're longer, and fit the chain) there's the issue of chain slap. So - number one is to get the right chain length - which a LOT of people don't have, which exacerbates the problem of chain slap, and causes the chain to derail - and then your chain slap should reduce. Battle number 2 won. So - the final question remains - is a type 2 RD really necessary, or is the narrow/wide chainring & proper chain length enough to prevent derailments? The type 2 RD certainly helps prevent derailings on normal chainrings, so its inherent chain-keeping ability is definitely there. The question is whether it is needed in addition to the Narrow/Wide chainring in order to provide the totally foolproof solution to a forever-dropping chain, and is good enough to replace the chain guide in totality. For that experiment - I shall take to the hills with my non-clutch RD, my Raceface narrow/wide and no chain guide, and test accordingly on the DH runs, XC runs and rock gardens of Tokai. Which are mightily rocky & rooty & jumptastic. The conservative part of me says that the cllutch RD (shadow plus / type 2) would be a great redundancy measure, just in case the narrow/wide chainring just isn't *quite* enough to manage the chain without a chain guide as backup. But the experimenter in me says gun it what are you waiting for, it's an extra 2k to set up a clutch RD (would be going 10 speed, so RD, shifter & cassette would need to go on) so you have everything to gain by testing it without a clutch RD... It will be interesting to see how it goes. I've said it before that the teeth on the Race Face Narrow/wide chainrings don't seem as long as the XX1/Wolftooth Chainrings. The side profile is not much different to a standard SS ring or even a ring from a multi-ring setup (I've used a Blackspire non-ramped SS ring with a front derailleur before with no problems.). It will be interesting to see how much impact the narrow/wide vs the narrow/wide & longer tooth setup make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heel Drop Posted September 17, 2013 Share I have the wolf tooth and shadow plus and have done quite a bit of riding and the chain is so happy with its new home and does not want to leave or even think of leaving - after many rides I am 100% confident in the combination of clutch RD and wolf tooth - just need a kcnc 11/38 now Li Mu Bai 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Li Mu Bai Posted September 17, 2013 Share Indeed. . But the experimenter in me says gun it what are you waiting for, it's an extra 2k to set up a clutch RD (would be going 10 speed, so RD, shifter & cassette would need to go on) so you have everything to gain by testing it without a clutch RD... Extra R1k - Sram X9 type 2 is great, R1k cheaper, and 15g heavier than XO type 2.an expensive 15g if thats your route. from my experience using 34t Absolute Black spiderless chainring (on a XX1 crank) and 11/36t with X9 type 2, no chain drops, crisp shifting, no chain slap, been a helluva lot of fun. Edited September 17, 2013 by Li Mu Bai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share I've It will be interesting to see how it goes. I've said it before that the teeth on the Race Face Narrow/wide chainrings don't seem as long as the XX1/Wolftooth Chainrings. The side profile is not much different to a standard SS ring or even a ring from a multi-ring setup (I've used a Blackspire non-ramped SS ring with a front derailleur before with no problems.). It will be interesting to see how much impact the narrow/wide vs the narrow/wide & longer tooth setup make.Wolfhttp://www.nsmb.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/detail.jpgRacefacehttp://www.pricepoint.com/_productimages/350x350/080_racnw3_blk_1.jpg So it's the profile that's different - I think the wolf has the illusion of taller teeth thanks to the more box-like profile of the teeth themselves. So they look taller but they're not. Or so it seems. I dunno. Remains to be seen. Anyway... I've ordered my RF one, and waiting patiently for the thing to be delivered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share Extra R1k - Sram X9 type 2 is great, R1k cheaper, and 15g heavier than XO type 2.an expensive 15g if thats your route. from my experience using 34t Absolute Black spiderless chainring (on a XX1 crank) and 11/36t with X9 type 2, no chain drops, crisp shifting, no chain slap, been a helluva lot of fun. Nope. 2k. RD is R 1k (everywhere) cassette is R 350 minimum (deore) chain is R 200 (min, also Deore) and shifter is min R 500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 17, 2013 Share oh btw - X0 type 2 is a minimum of R 1,950 for the RD alone. Edited September 17, 2013 by cpt armpies mayhem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaco-fiets Posted September 17, 2013 Share Ok so it looks like I only need the 32 woolf chainring then? Hope I don't run out of gears in the 7 weekspoort but I am def not getting an extra 34 blade just for this race Stupid question: I have the XTR M980 crankset. Evo bikes have a 32 woolf chainring for XTR M985. I assume it will fit my crank? Edited September 17, 2013 by Jaco-fiets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowta Posted September 17, 2013 Share Ok so it looks like I only need the 32 woolf chainring then? Hope I don't run out of gears in the 7 weekspoort but I am def not getting an extra 34 blade just for this race Stupid question: I have the XTR M980 crankset. Evo bikes have a 32 woolf chainring for XTR M985. I assume it will fit my crank? Do you have the race or the trail? What's the BCD of the crank/chainrings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now