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Posted

Flowta, find someone who can braze....assuming of course that it is a steel frame.

 

It isn't particularly difficult and anyone who understands "dull red" and can handle a torch will be able to do the job.

 

The only cautionary is if the coupler were to be installed in the middle of the top and down-tubes. Then he has to stick to very dull red - preferably silver-solder and not braze.

Posted

Flowta, find someone who can braze....assuming of course that it is a steel frame.

 

It isn't particularly difficult and anyone who understands "dull red" and can handle a torch will be able to do the job.

 

The only cautionary is if the coupler were to be installed in the middle of the top and down-tubes. Then he has to stick to very dull red - preferably silver-solder and not braze.

 

Finding someone who can braze is not the problem.

 

The problem is that, the company will not supply anyone but a "professional" frame builders

Posted

Another punt for Dave @ Mercer Bikes. He's in Kenilworth and knows his stuff.

 

Saw one of his frames the other day waiting to be sprayed. I want.

Posted

Cool thanks, I've sent him an email.

 

Still would have to see whether S&S will actually send to him.

 

On another note, I came across this

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8284/7727598586_892aa6a61b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8290/7727518408_e96543386c_z.jpg

Stainless steel pipe unions used instead.

 

They work in a similar way to the S&S couplers but without the teeth. As I understand it the reason for the teeth are for torque.

 

Maybe Johan (or someone else) can answer this, how much torque is actually seen on a bike frame in the downtube and toptube?

Posted

Cool thanks, I've sent him an email.

 

Still would have to see whether S&S will actually send to him.

 

On another note, I came across this

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8284/7727598586_892aa6a61b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8290/7727518408_e96543386c_z.jpg

Stainless steel pipe unions used instead.

 

They work in a similar way to the S&S couplers but without the teeth. As I understand it the reason for the teeth are for torque.

 

Maybe Johan (or someone else) can answer this, how much torque is actually seen on a bike frame in the downtube and toptube?

 

Any thoughts on this?

Posted

Cool thanks, I've sent him an email.

 

Still would have to see whether S&S will actually send to him.

 

On another note, I came across this

 

 

Stainless steel pipe unions used instead.

 

They work in a similar way to the S&S couplers but without the teeth. As I understand it the reason for the teeth are for torque.

 

Maybe Johan (or someone else) can answer this, how much torque is actually seen on a bike frame in the downtube and toptube?

 

Quite a bit and enough to make a normal coupling without "teeth" move just enough to loosen the coupling.

 

That type of toothed joint is called a Hirth joint.

 

As for the S&S coupling selling only to bla bla bla. Give me the details and a mandate and I BS my way through their red tape and order one. Have they never heard of Yellow Saddle Framebuilding?

Posted

Quite a bit and enough to make a normal coupling without "teeth" move just enough to loosen the coupling.

 

That type of toothed joint is called a Hirth joint.

 

As for the S&S coupling selling only to bla bla bla. Give me the details and a mandate and I BS my way through their red tape and order one. Have they never heard of Yellow Saddle Framebuilding?

 

Thanks Johan, I'll have to check on the finances and get back to you.

 

Looking through their website they say it will cost $400-$700. Hence the thought of the Union couplers.

 

Do you know of any similar union couplings that make use of a Hirth joint?

Posted

Thanks Johan, I'll have to check on the finances and get back to you.

 

Looking through their website they say it will cost $400-$700. Hence the thought of the Union couplers.

 

Do you know of any similar union couplings that make use of a Hirth joint?

 

No I don't know of any. However, that price is outrageous. What are you trying to do, make a belt-drive bike? There are easier options, especially if you are working in steel.

Posted

No I don't know of any. However, that price is outrageous. What are you trying to do, make a belt-drive bike? There are easier options, especially if you are working in steel.

 

Just toying with the idea of a "breakdown" travel MTB.

 

i.e. break it down put in suitcase, reassemble on the other side.

 

So it would need to "break" on the downtube and toptube. Like this

http://www.sujee.net/biking/s_and_s_bike_packing/s_and_s_bike_packing_005.jpg

http://www.alexmeade.com/photos/styled-13/files/img_1281.jpg

 

Something like the Ritchey Breakaway might also work

http://rcdn.roadbikereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/ritchey-breakaway-700x525.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ng_Ebj76SL0/S6tyulYIdXI/AAAAAAAADEY/5M-zSyrMXgc/s400/ritchey+ti+BAB.JPG

http://l.yimg.com/g/images/spaceout.gif

Posted

I was looking at S&S's website and came across this...

 

Collapsible full suspension tandem for 5 people...

 

post-37059-0-21752500-1375962344_thumb.jpg

 

Imagine trying to ride trails on this

Posted

I was looking at S&S's website and came across this...

 

Collapsible full suspension tandem for 5 people...

 

post-37059-0-21752500-1375962344_thumb.jpg

 

Imagine trying to ride trails on this

That puppy has to be collapsible otherwise it is a looooong Thule on a roofrack.

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