Vintage Vespa Posted November 21, 2013 Share Hi, I currently have M980 XTR 3x10 groupset and would like to change to 2x10...i have read that you can change the M980 crank 3x10 to 2x10 by using those gear fixing bolt & nut set - (item no. 16 in the link below) from shimano which enables you to run a 104BCD blasde as the big blade and the 64BCD as the small blade. this is the link to the shimano drawing: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FC/EV-FC-M980-3086A_v1_m56577569830799250.pdf My question is would the FD that is currently working on the 3x10 work on the 2x10, as the shifter can be changed from 3x10 to 2x10? obviusly i need to buy two need blades for the 2x10 setup. Any other issue that i am missing? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted November 21, 2013 Share Why don't you just change the FD top stop then you can keep the current lever and just change the blades (if they fit on the spider) and the FD height. I will probably be flamed for this I know but damn if the upper limit skrew stop the FD movement then you are sorted, unless you really try to force things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 21, 2013 Share Why don't you just change the FD top stop then you can keep the current lever and just change the blades (if they fit on the spider) and the FD height. I will probably be flamed for this I know but damn if the upper limit skrew stop the FD movement then you are sorted, unless you really try to force things. That is pretty much what you do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 21, 2013 Share Why don't you just change the FD top stop then you can keep the current lever and just change the blades (if they fit on the spider) and the FD height. I will probably be flamed for this I know but damn if the upper limit skrew stop the FD movement then you are sorted, unless you really try to force things. Depends on what size small blade you want to run. 32 is about as small as you can go on 104mm bcd. Also, if you're running 2x on a 3x crankset your chainline will be out by half a spacing. Other than that you'll be fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted November 21, 2013 Share Short bolts, a narrow bash guard or some washers from Builders warehouse will do the trick. Before you start getting funny change the chain line out as to somewhere inbetween where your old big/middle ring used to be (if your frame allows it) then adjust the extremety screw. Robert's your fathers' brother..... Happy riding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 21, 2013 Share Depends on what size small blade you want to run. 32 is about as small as you can go on 104mm bcd. Also, if you're running 2x on a 3x crankset your chainline will be out by half a spacing. Other than that you'll be fine... He would loose the big blade and then keep the middle and small ring positions, which means he could go 22t on the small and up to 40t on the big?obviously not those specific ratios but he could choose something within those parameters. Chainline would be a bit off though either way you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 21, 2013 Share Short bolts, a narrow bash guard or some washers from Builders warehouse will do the trick. Before you start getting funny change the chain line out as to somewhere inbetween where your old big/middle ring used to be (if your frame allows it) then adjust the extremety screw. Robert's your fathers' brother..... Happy riding. From what I understand I can play around with the BB spacers to move the chainline either in or out, obviously depending how my spacers are currently setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted November 21, 2013 Share From what I understand I can play around with the BB spacers to move the chainline either in or out, obviously depending how my spacers are currently setup? Yup... Depending on your current set up you can alter the chain line by swapping the spacers around. 1mm and 2mm spacers will allow you to shift the chainline undramatically to pretty much where it needs to be. 34/26 is a nice setup if you run a wide spread cassette (11-36) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 21, 2013 Share He would loose the big blade and then keep the middle and small ring positions, which means he could go 22t on the small and up to 40t on the big?obviously not those specific ratios but he could choose something within those parameters. Chainline would be a bit off though either way you go. True story. Brain not functioning properly today. At least I got the chainline bit right... Stupid thing is I'm running 22/36/bash and I still got this wrong. Argh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 21, 2013 Share True story. Brain not functioning properly today. At least I got the chainline bit right... Stupid thing is I'm running 22/36/bash and I still got this wrong. Argh. Time for beer, Andrew... don't fight it any longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 21, 2013 Share True story. Brain not functioning properly today. At least I got the chainline bit right... Stupid thing is I'm running 22/36/bash and I still got this wrong. Argh. What's 22/36/bash like, what cass you using?That's where I want to go mated with a 11-36 cass, but worried 22 might be a waste and would be more useable with a 24t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACM Posted November 21, 2013 Share I've build a 2x10 and went for 24 and 38 chainrings in front (11-36 back). I came from the traditional 11-36 back and 24,32,42 on my 3x10. Based on my new setup I've lost 1 gear ratio on the top end. This works pretty well. I wouldn't go for smaller than 24T for the small in front - you're only able to use granny-granny when there's lots of traction (and then you normally don't need that low gear ratio). And between the 24 and 38 you get enough overlap as well as wide enough range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 22, 2013 Share Time for beer, Andrew... don't fight it any longer. A pint of Windhoek met its doom shortly after this comment. Served by a 6ft blonde French bar lady. Winning on so many levels. What's 22/36/bash like, what cass you using?That's where I want to go mated with a 11-36 cass, but worried 22 might be a waste and would be more useable with a 24t Yeah, the 22 is a bit of a waste. SLX AM crankset with an 11-32, will probably go 26/39 when the rings go. Or just 1x with an 11-36 and a cup of cement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 22, 2013 Share A pint of Windhoek met its doom shortly after this comment. Served by a 6ft blonde French bar lady. Winning on so many levels. Yeah, the 22 is a bit of a waste. SLX AM crankset with an 11-32, will probably go 26/39 when the rings go. Or just 1x with an 11-36 and a cup of cement. AWESOME. Winning except when you try to smartass your way into her good books after that pack of windies... And yeah - just like i'm trying to do. 34 / 11-36. Fark. Me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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