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Replace RS Fork compression damper/Motion control with blank cap?


Skylark

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I've jiggered the motion control/compression damper/lockout thing a little bit on my 2009 Rockshox Revelation 426 140mm fork, no problem as I have virtually never used it, problem is its now leaking fork oil out of the top because the seal on the pushlock lever's pivot shaft is vrot and I can't open the cartridge to replace it.

 

Just a word of wisdom from the newly wise - the thread to undo the plastic cartridge from the aluminium cap is lefthand thread - NOT the normal righthand thread.....

 

So what I want to know is can I take out the Motion control/compression damper cartridge and replace it with a blank cap, the cap that would be on the fork if it had no motion control?

 

Would the rebound damper and the fork in general still work fine with no compression damper cartridge installed and just a blank cap?

 

Just an added note - the fork is working 100% as it is, just leaking oil out the pushloc shaft as mentioned.

 

 

This is the fork

post-15746-0-69490300-1385367883_thumb.jpg

Edited by Skylark
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Just work out how to get to the seal. It's possible. Usually the problem you're talking about is because of a dirty seal, not seal failure - HP hoses and the like have been known to push dirt into the gland. Clean the dirt out and the seal works again.

 

If it doesn't, it's a bit more of an issue since RS doesn't sell those seals separately.

 

What colour is the damper body? I'm assuming it's the red one...

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Just work out how to get to the seal. It's possible. Usually the problem you're talking about is because of a dirty seal, not seal failure - HP hoses and the like have been known to push dirt into the gland. Clean the dirt out and the seal works again.

 

If it doesn't, it's a bit more of an issue since RS doesn't sell those seals separately.

 

What colour is the damper body? I'm assuming it's the red one...

 

Apparently it's an Oring in the cartridge on the pushloc shaft that needs replacing.

But in my witless attempt at opening the cartridge as if it was a right hand thread i cracked the plastic cartridge body, it's still fine now but if I try open it again the correct way I'm afraid I might aggrevate the crack and destroy my cartridge and then be stuck with a non operating fork. Which is why I want to find out if I can replace the cartridge with a blank cap before I try to open the cartridge again.

 

My cartridge is the red one, one does that mean!?

Edited by Skylark
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It just confirms my suspicions, and means I gave you the right answer. I'm not the type of oke who can catalogue model numbers in my head and immediately recall which damper is which, but by your description I figured it was the red one.

 

You can't replace the whole cartridge with a blank cap unfortunately, that's your compression damper and your fork will be a bit useless without it. You can, however, replace the entire compression damper cartridge, which will cost you about R 800 and some oil.

 

Order from your LBS, or drop me a PM and I can send you one. Fitting instructions and oil levels are on the RS site.

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@Stoke, it's really good to have you guys online!

 

Thanks, glad I can help where I can... suspension's always been a bit of a dark art, so hopefully we can go at least some of the way towards demystifying it.

 

Works for all of us, because some of it really is rocket science and that's where I'm happy to take over. Like TALAS air springs. Sheesh.

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It just confirms my suspicions, and means I gave you the right answer. I'm not the type of oke who can catalogue model numbers in my head and immediately recall which damper is which, but by your description I figured it was the red one.

 

You can't replace the whole cartridge with a blank cap unfortunately, that's your compression damper and your fork will be a bit useless without it. You can, however, replace the entire compression damper cartridge, which will cost you about R 800 and some oil.

 

Order from your LBS, or drop me a PM and I can send you one. Fitting instructions and oil levels are on the RS site.

 

Thanks Droo, if the compression damping is switched into the off position shouldn't the mechanisms in that fork arm only be running on the rebound damper?

If not how does the compression damper interact with the rebound damper?

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The quickest (and most tongue-in-cheek)answer I can give you is to take it out and see how long your teeth last.

 

Compression damping is way more than lockout. It controls how fast your fork compresses with a given impact. It's not quite as obvious as rebound damping, and you won't even notice it much at low shaft velocities. Take a big hit and you'll know all about it - with nothing but the spring to control compression, you'll blow through your travel way too fast and bottom out hard. Successive hits will also cause the fork to pack down, leaving you with squirrely handling and harshness.

 

Most likely result is the purchase of some land just ahead of your front wheel, and possibly a busted fork to go with it.

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The quickest (and most tongue-in-cheek)answer I can give you is to take it out and see how long your teeth last.

 

Compression damping is way more than lockout. It controls how fast your fork compresses with a given impact. It's not quite as obvious as rebound damping, and you won't even notice it much at low shaft velocities. Take a big hit and you'll know all about it - with nothing but the spring to control compression, you'll blow through your travel way too fast and bottom out hard. Successive hits will also cause the fork to pack down, leaving you with squirrely handling and harshness.

 

Most likely result is the purchase of some land just ahead of your front wheel, and possibly a busted fork to go with it.

 

that's where I started laughing... And I just couldn't stop!

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that's where I started laughing... And I just couldn't stop!

 

http://style.mtv.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/beavis-and-butthead-couch-leaderboard.jpg

 

Hehehehe... You said... Shaft...

Edited by droo
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Well I solved the leak without opening the cartridge, I used Yamaha non-hardening gasket maker to "glue" the motion control poploc lever onto the shaft and that has sorted the leak out out. Tried silicon first but the oil just pushed that aside and carried on leaking, albeit less than before. I kept the saying "fiddle, fiddle, f#$k" very close to mind when making this decision to rather not open the cartridge!!

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