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Posted

So I have done some research, Zaskar asked the same question last week......

 

And between the self-marketing and advertising BS, I cannot find the answer I am looking for.

 

So I have a set of Alu rims and Boras.

 

My current setup has the Bora specific brake pads on but it is SERIOUSLY chowing my Alu rims.  NOT GOOD!

 

The pads are now finished......what do you do??

 

Stop being so lazy and change the pads between Alu specific and Bora wheels EVERY WEEKEND.

Zipp makes dual use pads.  BUT Campy websites say that Zipp rims have a harder braking surface than the Boras and their pads will damage the Boras? 

Cork pads.  But I have seen that they too damage the Alu rims.

Swisstop / Lightweight pads (which is going to cost an arm and a leg I think) http://www.carbonsports.com/Zubehoer_Bremsbelaege.lasso

Obviously I do not want to damage the Boras.  That is my main concern.  But changing pads every Saturday is not fun.

Any suggestions??

 

Oom Borman?

 
Posted

Build another bike exact same spec. then you dont have to change wheels. Or buy 2 sets of boras. one to race with, one to train with. or stop using your brakes when training

Posted

My current setup has the Bora specific brake pads on but it is SERIOUSLY chowing my Alu rims.  NOT GOOD!

 

Cork pads.  But I have seen that they too damage the Alu rims.

 

 

So you are saying that the carbon specific pads are damaging your Alu rims? I would have thought it would be the other way round, with the harder alu rims destroying the softer cork and carbon specific pads?

 

I bought a pair of Campy Bora specific pads on sat (havnt used them yet) but i muat say they look just as hard as the normal alu pads. i thought the only difference is just that they dont have the abrasive properties that the alu pads had, to keep the Bora carbon rims safe. but you are saying that they are killing your alu rims? thats weird.

 

yeah i would also like to know if there is any answer to this, because it kills me swapping pads every few days, esp with those zero gravity brake shoes!
Posted

(mini hijack - maybe)

And how do you control/minimise the carbon-on-carbon brake screetch Question

It's a great way to announce yourself on the corners ... but not very trendy
Posted

Maybe adjust the toe-in on your pads. Mine were making that screech, but I fiddled with this and it fixed it. Just make sure that the front end of the pads touched first, and then as you apply more pressure the rest of the pad makes contact.

Posted

Zipp brake blocks are probably re-branded Koolstop. I have been using these for more than a year, works perfectly. Too bad they can not be used on the Boras, sounds like Swisstop is the way to go. Sounds like Swisstop provides the best braking performance on carbon rims in any case, so can't go wrong there (dont know about cost...)

Posted
Maybe adjust the toe-in on your pads. Mine were making that screech' date=' but I fiddled with this and it fixed it. Just make sure that the front end of the pads touched first, and then as you apply more pressure the rest of the pad makes contact. [/quote']

 

Ta,  I've played with this a bit but without much luck.  It's getting very expensive to have my bik "serviced" by the LBS every time I switch wheels Ouch
Posted

I race Bora and train with Zonda's. I tried the Bora carbon brake block that came with the wheels but found that I couldnt stop properly with the Bora and the Zonda's squeeled like hell everytime I used my brakes.

 

I change them to Bontrager Cork blocks - about R500 a set if I remember correctly. I have had them on for about 8 months now and have had zero problems with either sets of wheels. They both stop properly and dont make that irritating queel that the carbon blocks did on the zonda's

 

Its worth spending a little more to get a good set of break blocks.
Posted

just saw this on Cyclingnews when i was searching for the Bonty pads...

 

Swiss Stop pads

http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/2007/tech/newarrivals/04-19/P1130130tn.jpg

Swiss Stop claims its Yellow King compound is the ultimate solution for carbon rims, offering superior dry and wet weather performance coupled with excellent modulation and good longevity. Moreover, those of you who train on aluminium rims and race on carbon will be happy to hear that Swiss Stop says the Yellow Kings work great on aluminum rims, too.

In total, Swiss Stop actually offers five different road pad compounds for a variety of configurations: all-weather for aluminum rims (Green High Performance); all-weather specifically for softer aluminum rims (Power Black); ceramic-rimmed wheelsets (Blue Sky), and even general replacement pads (Grey Economy).

Road pads are also offered in multiple fitments, including Campy 9-speed (Race), Campy 10-speed/Zero Gravity (Race 2000), SRAM/Shimano road (Flash), linear pull brake (Rx), and both smooth post and threaded post cantilever (Rat and Viking, respectively).

Price: US$25.20 (Flash GHP, set of four); US$41.60 (Flash Yellow King, set of four); US$35.30 (Race2000 GHP, set of four); US$62.40 (Race2000 Yellow King, set of four).

Posted

Swiss Stop Yellow pads work great on carbon and Alu, just be sure to remove any alu or other debris from your pads by using some very fine sandpaper, before switching from carbon to alu rims.

Posted

OK....

So I did some research and now have some experience.
Maybe ONE day many moons from now when I am 6feet under, a dude(t) will google this and learn.

You have the change pads each time you change wheels.

I took the pads off early this morning (Woke up at 4 to go out and it started raining......oi)

Close inspection revealed A LOT of ALU shavings embedded in the carbon brake pads.  that will damage your carbon wheel FOR SURE!! 

 

Even when using a dual use pad, I believe these shavings will damage the brake surface in the long run.  Which is never good for a R20k wheel set!!

 

So.....

Stop being lazy and change the pads every time you change wheel sets.  It will not improve performance in braking that much but your rims will last longer!!!

 

Hope this helps!

 
Posted

Spidey, are you just changing pads or holders aswell? I would think by just changing pads it would be easier. One little screw (everymans' dream) and slide out the one and slide in the other one. No need to re-align pads. Or are the breaking serfaces on different levels?

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