Brake pads on Carbon rims

[Spinnekop]

Spidey' date=' are you just changing pads or holders aswell? I would think by just changing pads it would be easier. One little screw (everymans' dream) and slide out the one and slide in the other one. No need to re-align pads. Or are the breaking serfaces on different levels?

[/quote']

 

Screwing is eazy.........it's the slide that makes you fork out R1500 for new outer casings.........

 

[AndreZA]

 

Screwing is eazy.........it's the slide that makes you fork out R1500 for new outer casings.........

 

 

WHAT!!! are they made from platinum, oil or electricity? It just hold the pads in place. Not even BMW *spit* break pads costs that much.

 

 

[GreyOwl]

Just get a training bike...and leave the wheels on your race bike.

 

And try not to brake when racing...afterall, you are trying to go fast!!!

[swift]

As a few of you know now, we are the agents for Corima in SA. Corima is a world class brand and have been making carbon wheels since the early 1980's. No marketing BS, have a look at the info on this link:

 

http://www.corima.com/gb/produits/accessoires/default.cfm?family=accessoires_patins

 

 

 

I know shops that only buy from us, for all their carbon rims. Corima pads need to be good, as they make a full carbon clincher and tubluar wheel for the etire range...

 

 

 

PM me if you need any further info.

[swift]

Oh, ya, to answer the question... i race and train on the same wheels (full carbon clincher) but when i do need to change back to my ali rims, these pads hold up just fine. Not ideal, but fine.

[Zaskar]

 

Screwing is eazy.........it's the slide that makes you fork out R1500 for new outer casings.........

 

 

WHAT!!! are they made from platinum' date=' oil or electricity? It just hold the pads in place. Not even BMW *spit* break pads costs that much.

 

 

[/quote']

 

You have never tried to shorten a Campy chain then have you? R220 for the little joining link....

[Spinnekop]

Thanks Swift.  Appreciate the info.

 

[ewep]

 

Screwing is eazy.........it's the slide that makes you fork out R1500 for new outer casings.........

 

 

Agreed!  Been there, done that!

[Johan Bornman]

So I have done some research' date=' Zaskar asked the same question last week......

 

And between the self-marketing and advertising BS, I cannot find the answer I am looking for.

 

So I have a set of Alu rims and Boras.

 

My current setup has the Bora specific brake pads on but it is SERIOUSLY chowing my Alu rims.  NOT GOOD!

 

The pads are now finished......what do you do??

 

Stop  

Cut cut cut cut

 

[/quote']

I am not sure I understand the problem.

 

I think it is:

 

1) You have two sets of wheels, one carbon, one aluminium.

2) The alu pads pick up alu and will eat the carbon rims.

 

If so, I have this to say:

 

The reason why we have carbon-specific brake pads is because carbon is a poor conductor of heat and therefore the pads melt after a couple of seconds of really hard braking. The skating sensation after melting point is not pleasant.

 

I find that carbon rims generally don't get destroyed by good quality pads. Therefore, if you don't do hard braking (I'm talking going down mountain passes that require continuous braking for prolonged periods), most pads are OK for carbon rims.

 

Now for the aluminium problem. Shimano pads pick up aluminium. I've heard that they've improved their rubber but whether the problem is gone, I don't know.

 

Get something like Koolstop, either red or salmon (colour, not smell). Neither of these pick up aluminium and the salmon can take more heat. However, the distribution is so limited that you'll have to compromise with pad style. You may have to buy what you get and then retrofit new brake shoes to fit the pads, not the other way around. 

 

Here are some photos from an interesting experiment. The first photo is a Shimano pad which was used on the left hand side.

 

At the same time the Koolstop pad was used on the right hand side.

 

 

After some weeks of rainy riding, the pads were removed and these photos taken.

 

Notice the aluminium shavings embedded in the Shimano pad.

 

Notice the pronounced wear of the Shimano pad.

 

Notice the perfect Koolstop pad.

 

 

Below is a typical rim that's been through many miles of Shimano pad torture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Johan Bornman2008-02-27 02:44:09

[wisecrack]

Thanks for this post Johan.

 

I bought a second hand Dura Ace groupset and also noticed aluminium shavings(did not really know at the time what it was)

 

I still have these used shimano pads on my bike so will these shavings although not nearly as bad as your picture above over time destroy the alaminium braking surfice on my Easton Vista SL rims?

 

[Johan Bornman]

Thanks for this post Johan.

I bought a second hand Dura Ace groupset and also noticed aluminium shavings(did not really know at the time what it was)

I still have these used shimano pads on my bike so will these shavings although not nearly as bad as your picture above over time destroy the alaminium braking surfice on my Easton Vista SL rims?

 

I won't go as far as claim they'll destroy your rims. They'll certainly gouge grooves in them and ruin your nerves with a grating noise from hell.

 

Chuck dem pads and get Koolstop.

 

[Spinnekop]

Thanks Johan.

 

It THIS the time to answer my post???????

Waar was jy dude???? 

 

OK.

 

One set pads.  Carbon Campy pads.  Does what is illustrated in your pic above.....pics up Alu.  When I change to Boras, it will damage it.

 

So....if I change to Coolstop, it will NOT pick up alu shavings?  And it will work on the Boras?

 

Thanks for the Info.

Decided to buy an extra set of pads and will change between them - Alu pads on alu rims and carbon pads on carbon rims.

Think it is the safest way to go.

 

Spinnekop2008-02-27 05:14:17

[Wonder Woman]

Hmmm, thanks, I've just learnt an important lesson here as well