Chain coming off often?

[feetup]

I find the chain on my epic comp carbon tends to come off when changing to lower crank-24T?

It is not coming off during the change down but when on the lower cog.

There is a hell of a lot of slack when not pedalling?

Do i remove a link or what?

I did replace my Sram X9 long cage rear derailleur with a Sram XX medium cage rear derailleur.Would this change the set up?

Do i need a chain tensioner or is this slack normal?

My set up is:

XO twistshifters

2x10 crankset 24T-38T

Sram X7 front derailleur

Sram XX 2x10 spd rear derailleur

cassette-11-36

10spd chain(not sure on the linkage)

 

 

Please advice through experience or it'll just be guessing

Edited February 16, 2014 by feetup

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Yes, you'd need to remove a few links. The change to a medium cage derailleur means the chain has a smaller length to pass through. Probably a couple of links at most. And no you won't need a tensioner. Just get the chain length right and you'll be golden. Also look at the limits on the fd to ensure there's no problem there.

[feetup]

Yes, you'd need to remove a few links. The change to a medium cage derailleur means the chain has a smaller length to pass through. Probably a couple of links at most. And no you won't need a tensioner. Just get the chain length right and you'll be golden. Also look at the limits on the fd to ensure there's no problem there.

Thanks,how many links would you suggest?Two to start?

[Soufflé]

Guidance

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Veonix - that's generally for road bikes or hardtails, which gave no chain growth on activation of rear suspension.

 

For a full suss bike you need to depress the rear suspension fully and run the chain through the RD with the RD at its most forward position.

 

One of the exceptions is the Spez,which apparently has no chain growth on suspension activation. So you need not de pressurise the suspension and go through that exercise.

 

So - put the chain in big ring back and front, run through the RD and put the jockey in the most forward position. Mark the chain at the point where there are 2 links overlapping (including quick link) and break there.

Edited February 16, 2014 by cpt armpies mayhem

[Jewbacca]

Veonix - that's generally for road bikes or hardtails, which gave no chain growth on activation of rear suspension.

 

For a full suss bike you need to depress the rear suspension fully and run the chain through the RD with the RD at its most forward position.

 

One of the exceptions is the Spez,which apparently has no chain growth on suspension activation. So you need not de pressurise the suspension and go through that exercise.

 

So - put the chain in big ring back and front, run through the RD and put the jockey in the most forward position. Mark the chain at the point where there are 2 links overlapping (including quick link) and break there.

 

hahaha... I think I have seen you type this exact explanation 30 times!

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

 

 

hahaha... I think I have seen you type this exact explanation 30 times!

 

Lol. Yeah bro. It's pointless when people put incorrect info out there. All the more important when it's based on 3 ring drive trains which (at the time) had about 6 rings on the cassette with a max tooth size of the mid 20s.

 

So yeah. That info graphic is now effectively obsolete. And if used now should only be on road bikes with an 11-25 cassette and short cage rd where there are no instances of cross chaining at all.