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Posted

Hi Hubbers,

 

So I am on a 1x10 setup with 32T up front.

 

Now when going up a hill, I move the chain to the biggest cog on the rear but it keeps slipping off that one and onto the 2nd biggest cog. It seems to stay there while I keep my finger pressing the shifter but as soon as I release the shifter then it moves to that 2nd cog.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v285/GeeMobee/RearCassette.jpg

 

is my bike broken?

 

 

Gary

Posted

Hi Hubbers,

 

So I am on a 1x10 setup with 32T up front.

 

Now when going up a hill, I move the chain to the biggest cog on the rear but it keeps slipping off that one and onto the 2nd biggest cog. It seems to stay there while I keep my finger pressing the shifter but as soon as I release the shifter then it moves to that 2nd cog.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v285/GeeMobee/RearCassette.jpg

 

is my bike broken?

 

 

Gary

 

Hi Gary,

 

Is the single 32T chainring on the inside or outside of the spider?

I find if I run mine on the inside it has an easier time on the bigger rear rings.

Just a suggestion.

Posted

Few turns on the barrel screw will sort this . But your bike looks broken . Best you give it away .

 

Will have to google what a barrel screw is :mellow:

 

Hi Gary,

 

Is the single 32T chainring on the inside or outside of the spider?

I find if I run mine on the inside it has an easier time on the bigger rear rings.

Just a suggestion.

 

What is a spider?

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v285/GeeMobee/2014-02-14183746.jpg

Posted

When I saw that photo of the back wheel I knew it was a Jamis . Look at your shifters , where the cable go into the shifter there will be a round thingamajig that you can turn . In your case turn it out , half a turn at a time .

Posted

When I saw that photo of the back wheel I knew it was a Jamis . Look at your shifters , where the cable go into the shifter there will be a round thingamajig that you can turn . In your case turn it out , half a turn at a time .

 

Awesome! Will give that a go.

 

Thanks

Posted

What is a spider?

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v285/GeeMobee/2014-02-14183746.jpg

 

Its the part of your drive sides crank that the chainring bolts to.

Is the chainring on the outside of the tabs or the inside? Picture is a bit blurred so can't see.

If it's on the outside I think the problem is that when the chain is on the biggest ring at the back that the chainline is skew to the point that it cannot stay on. If the front ring is on the outside then moving it to the inside will help, otherwise spacers may help.

 

Just turning a barrel screw will help but it might create other problems too.

 

Is this a fairly new setup?

How is the chain retension on the front going?

Is it a Narrow wide chainring?

Posted

Its the part of your drive sides crank that the chainring bolts to.

Is the chainring on the outside of the tabs or the inside? Picture is a bit blurred so can't see.

If it's on the outside I think the problem is that when the chain is on the biggest ring at the back that the chainline is skew to the point that it cannot stay on. If the front ring is on the outside then moving it to the inside will help, otherwise spacers may help.

 

Just turning a barrel screw will help but it might create other problems too.

 

Is this a fairly new setup?

How is the chain retension on the front going?

Is it a Narrow wide chainring?

 

Not a new setup, never dropped the chain and I do think it is a Narrow-wide.

 

Will take a better pic tonight.

 

Thanks for your help!

Posted

 

If your chain doesn't stay on the largest cog (i.e. lowest speed gear) but keeps jumping back to the 2nd largest cog, then you need to adjust the L screw on your rear dérailleur (RD). The L (Low speed) & H (High speed) screws are known as the limit screws. Put your bike on a stand & shift your chain to the easiest gear (largest cog). Then turn the L screw of your RD half a turn anti-clockwise. See if this helps. If the chain still moves to 2nd largest cog, then turn it a bit more anti-clockwise until it stays on the largest cog. Make small adjustments each time you turn the screw & check it again between turns until it runs smoothly on the largest cog. Be patient & take your time to get it right as it's very satisfying once it runs perfectly! If the chain moves off into your spokes it means you've over corrected it & you need to then turn the L screw back clockwise a bit.

 

I have put together a very informative document with diagrams which I used to educate myself which I can email to you if you are interested. PM me your name & email address.

It's very empowering knowing that you have the knowledge to make the necessary adjustments to a faulty drive train when out on the road or trail!

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