Prep for 2015 Freedom Challenge / Race to Rhodes

[Marnitz Nienaber]

 

 

OK and so now, please explain the hows and whys off the XT clutch derailleur. Why does it no longer want to pick up the slack in the "returning" chain? Not mine, Werner's. 

 

Osseberg ate it.....had to do something to slow him down......

 

I ride old school 26" 3x9 old school shifters old school derailers, no problems.

 

One of the main reasons for not picking up slack could be that something is jammed between the spring and the moving parts of the derailer, like a small klippie.

 

That in itself is the best fix for a broken cable/shifter, you spruck  it with a klippie.

 

The clutch mechanism works by creating resistance to the RD cage movement. When traveling over rough terrain, the whole RD bounces around, and the bottom of the RD cage tends to swing forward/downward, causing a loss of chain tension and subsequently leading to chain drop.

 

When the one way clutch mechanism is turned ON, the cage resists any forward/downward movement, while still allowing the cage to rotate backwards easily. This ensures that chain tension is maintained, greatly reducing any chance of chain drop.

 

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Inside-Shimanos-Shadow-Plus-Mech-and-How-To-Adjust-.html

 

Best reason for old school MTB

[Marnitz Nienaber]

OK, now it's the turn of the lights...

 

I bought a Surge Batwing, nice light light, nice gentle light for "deurnagdiens" but after 7 hrs on Low (which is a nice intensity for long hours) the light said bye bye. (battery flat)

Problem is the suppliers imply that it can do 12 hours on low. 4kers!

 

 

Advice please comrades

Got a Light in Motion Seca 1200 with 6 cell battery, 3 hours fully charged and shine for 12hours, the guys that import them are in Knysna, I think Juno Trading

 

Or you get yourself a AY UP from Aus, buy yourself an extra battery, got a dual charger, 5 hours fully charged 2 batteries which will sort you for 12 hours.

 

You can believe this 4ker

[johannrissik]

Osseberg ate it.....had to do something to slow him down......

 

I ride old school 26" 3x9 old school shifters old school derailers, no problems.

 

One of the main reasons for not picking up slack could be that something is jammed between the spring and the moving parts of the derailer, like a small klippie.

 

That in itself is the best fix for a broken cable/shifter, you spruck  it with a klippie.

 

The clutch mechanism works by creating resistance to the RD cage movement. When traveling over rough terrain, the whole RD bounces around, and the bottom of the RD cage tends to swing forward/downward, causing a loss of chain tension and subsequently leading to chain drop.

 

When the one way clutch mechanism is turned ON, the cage resists any forward/downward movement, while still allowing the cage to rotate backwards easily. This ensures that chain tension is maintained, greatly reducing any chance of chain drop.

 

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Inside-Shimanos-Shadow-Plus-Mech-and-How-To-Adjust-.html

 

Best reason for old school MTB

Osseberg en sy vruggies is dik gevreet. 

Couldn't agree more. XT. 3x9. One time

 

I'll tell Werner But I'd still like to know how to fix the damn things (I have a reputation to uphold)

[Marnitz Nienaber]

 

I think this is a must know for all the guys and girls riding the Freedom Challenge with new age derailers, if you can't adjust the tension ride old school.......

 

Marnitz Freedom Challenge rule 10A - Go simple, the less gadgets the more carefree the ride......... 

 

 

 

Adjusting the feel of the “chain stabilizer” mechanism in all Shadow Plus Derailleurs (XTR, Saint, XT, SLX, Deore and Zee)

http://bikefat.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/xtshadowplus.jpg?df9069Since its inception over 30 years ago, the mountain bike industry has been in a state of steady and drastic innovation. The release of new technology has never slowed down, and every couple of years a new “game changer” is released. Clutch rear derailleurs, such as Shimano’s Shadow Plus and SRAM’s Type 2, are just one of those game changers. It’s one of those ideas that’s just so simple and effective that it makes one wonder how on earth nobody had ever thought of it earlier? What these new derailleurs offer is a much quieter ride and far fewer chain derailments. I believe they deserve a place up on the mountain bike part hall of fame beside hydraulic disk brakes, suspension forks and dropper seat posts.

What I’m sharing with you in this post regards only those clutch type derailleurs from Shimano. If you have  a Shimano Shadow Plus Derailleur, (Plus – meaning clutch,) you have the option to adjust the amount of friction controlling the forward movement of the derailleur cage. There are several reasons why you may wish to do this, basically involving finding the happy medium between ultra tight chain retention and super smooth shifter action. The higher the friction in the clutch, the better it will keep the chain from slapping around your frame and falling off your chainrings. That’s a good thing, but the friction in the derailleur cage can also make for some severe friction at the shift lever when shifting up the cogset to lower gears. Even after being set-up perfectly from new, the friction on the clutch can simply change over time, so giving us the ability to adjust this mechanism is a sweet move on Shimano’s part.

Now that you know you can adjust this, and have some idea of why you might want to, let’s get started. It’s mega simple!

The friction is created by a metal band, called a friction spring , wrapped around a small one-way roller bearing. A small set screw adjusts how tightly the friction spring binds around the roller bearing when the switch, (a cam that pushes the spring ends together,) is in the ON position. The mechanism is accessed behind a plastic cover by removing three screws with a 2 mm allen key.

http://bikefat.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/xtshadowcaponlines.jpg?df9069

Use a 2 mm allen key to remove the plastic cover and expose the clutch mechanism

Once inside the mechanism, you will see the metal band surrounding the roller clutch. You’ll also see a small set screw on the left side of the band and the switch actuated cam on the right side. At this stage it’s best to flip the switch down into the OFF position to release most of the tension on the metal band. This will make turning the set screw on the left a little bit easier. All you need to do to make adjustments is turn that screw, (clockwise to increase tension, or counter-clockwise to decrease it,) using a pair of needle nose pliers.

http://bikefat.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/shadowplus.jpg?df9069

Flip the switch to the “Off” position to make the friction adjuster easier to turn. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise for more tension or counter-clockwise for less.

Check the tension after making an adjustment by turning the switch back into the ON position and pushing forward on the cage, making sure that it requires some force to get it moving, yet feels smooth once it brakes free. Also take the time to shift through the gears and ensure that the friction at the shift lever is tolerable. From time to time you may need to apply a little grease to the outside of the clutch where it slides against the metal band. Once you’re happy with your setting, re-install the plastic cover and voila! Great shifting, a quite bike and a chain that won’t fall off!

 

[dirtrider]

N/A

[Shebeen]

Osseberg ate it.....had to do something to slow him down......

 

I ride old school 26" 3x9 old school shifters old school derailers, no problems.

 

 

ja me too. 

[The Crazy German]

Derailleurs are so old school. I might ad a fancy chain tensioner if I make it to the start line. Off to the doctors again to see if they can fix me up to ride.

[Marnitz Nienaber]

Derailleurs are so old school. 

 

Most of the time old school last and finish on the Freedom Challenge.......

 

on the other hand it could be nice to loose some of the spares halfway and chase Glenn's record on your new found single speed....

 

Andre Britz hassle free Freedom Challenge SS

 

http://bp2.blogger.com/_nFtBKKyMln8/RmLeKM1O_MI/AAAAAAAAABs/lJW7aAEPTMU/s320/IMGP1509small.JPG

 

and if my memory serve me correct, he had sh!t with the rear hub.....

[Guest Frail4Life]

What do the rules say about bicycles?

Must you use a MTB?

[johannrissik]

I think this is a must know for all the guys and girls riding the Freedom Challenge with new age derailers, if you can't adjust the tension ride old school....... Marnitz Freedom Challenge rule 10A - Go simple, the less gadgets the more carefree the ride.........    Adjusting the feel of the “chain stabilizer” mechanism in all Shadow Plus Derailleurs (XTR, Saint, XT, SLX, Deore and Zee)

http://bikefat.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/xtshadowplus.jpg?df9069Since its inception over 30 years ago, the mountain bike industry has been in a state of steady and drastic innovation. The release of new technology has never slowed down, and every couple of years a new “game changer” is released. Clutch rear derailleurs, such as Shimano’s Shadow Plus and SRAM’s Type 2, are just one of those game changers. It’s one of those ideas that’s just so simple and effective that it makes one wonder how on earth nobody had ever thought of it earlier? What these new derailleurs offer is a much quieter ride and far fewer chain derailments. I believe they deserve a place up on the mountain bike part hall of fame beside hydraulic disk brakes, suspension forks and dropper seat posts.

What I’m sharing with you in this post regards only those clutch type derailleurs from Shimano. If you have  a Shimano Shadow Plus Derailleur, (Plus – meaning clutch,) you have the option to adjust the amount of friction controlling the forward movement of the derailleur cage. There are several reasons why you may wish to do this, basically involving finding the happy medium between ultra tight chain retention and super smooth shifter action. The higher the friction in the clutch, the better it will keep the chain from slapping around your frame and falling off your chainrings. That’s a good thing, but the friction in the derailleur cage can also make for some severe friction at the shift lever when shifting up the cogset to lower gears. Even after being set-up perfectly from new, the friction on the clutch can simply change over time, so giving us the ability to adjust this mechanism is a sweet move on Shimano’s part.

Now that you know you can adjust this, and have some idea of why you might want to, let’s get started. It’s mega simple!

The friction is created by a metal band, called a friction spring , wrapped around a small one-way roller bearing. A small set screw adjusts how tightly the friction spring binds around the roller bearing when the switch, (a cam that pushes the spring ends together,) is in the ON position. The mechanism is accessed behind a plastic cover by removing three screws with a 2 mm allen key.

http://bikefat.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/xtshadowcaponlines.jpg?df9069

Use a 2 mm allen key to remove the plastic cover and expose the clutch mechanism

Once inside the mechanism, you will see the metal band surrounding the roller clutch. You’ll also see a small set screw on the left side of the band and the switch actuated cam on the right side. At this stage it’s best to flip the switch down into the OFF position to release most of the tension on the metal band. This will make turning the set screw on the left a little bit easier. All you need to do to make adjustments is turn that screw, (clockwise to increase tension, or counter-clockwise to decrease it,) using a pair of needle nose pliers.

http://bikefat.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/shadowplus.jpg?df9069

Flip the switch to the “Off” position to make the friction adjuster easier to turn. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise for more tension or counter-clockwise for less.

Check the tension after making an adjustment by turning the switch back into the ON position and pushing forward on the cage, making sure that it requires some force to get it moving, yet feels smooth once it brakes free. Also take the time to shift through the gears and ensure that the friction at the shift lever is tolerable. From time to time you may need to apply a little grease to the outside of the clutch where it slides against the metal band. Once you’re happy with your setting, re-install the plastic cover and voila! Great shifting, a quite bike and a chain that won’t fall off!

 

Thanks for that. 

[Eddie Stafford]

I have two pairs of SealSkinz Thick Mid Length Socks for sale.  One pair is brand new and the second pair worn once. Size is Large (shoe 9 - 11). R500 for both pairs. Email me if interested.  Eddie

[G.S.W]

Hi Eddie

I will take them if you can post to me at my cost?

Cheers

G

[Trackz]

Did X-Berg Challenge last week in the Drakensberg, needed the miles and needed some fun riding in prep for R2R. Got more than I bargained for, what an awesome race. Race report below. Freedom riders, make a note for 2016, we need to go take on the gliders & trail runners.

 

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/150257-x-berg-challenge-2016-race-report-paragliders-vs-train-runners-vs-mtb-who-won/

[Eddie Stafford]

I am busy planning logistics and was wondering if there any options to get a shuttle/taxi from Rhodes back to PM or Durban.  Or alternatively if anyone is driving from Rhodes to PM or Durban on 14 June and has space for 2 people plus bikes.  Thanks Eddie

[Eddie Stafford]

I am busy planning logistics and was wondering if there any options to get a shuttle/taxi from Rhodes back to PM or Durban.  Or alternatively if anyone is driving from Rhodes to PM or Durban on 14 June and has space for 2 people plus bikes.  Thanks Eddie

[The Crazy German]

Topic revival.

 

Looking for outer rain layer. Any suggestions jacket and pants.

 

Will have a light rain jacket for drizzle and soft rin but will need something for the real stuff. Will have water repellent tight but will need something for the real stuff. Any suggestions for models and brands widely avaialable.