1x10-what cassette to remove?

[JXV]

Am I right to say that 32 / 36 (0.888) has a similar ratio to a 34 / 42 (0.809)? Not sure if it's as simple as ratio of number of teeth or whether you need to factor in sprocket circumference or anything else.

It is as simple as number of teeth cos length of a chain link = constant = tooth spacing

[KALBO Designs]

I've been wanting to do a conversion like this for a while. I currently have an XT RD and 11-36 cassette on a 3x10 setup. The cassette and chain are getting worn and thinking to do the 1x10 conversion seeing as though I am replacing. So get a new 11-36 cassette and then remove 15 & 17, replace with a 16.

 

Would the RD work with an 11-42?

 

Also, what are you running up front? I'm considering a 34t (thinking a Kitted.co.za 1 would work nicely)

I did exactly the same thing. Ditched the FD and rings and replaced with raceface 32t and went from slx 11-34 to xt 11-36at the back. Have since also added a oneup 42t and replaced 15t and 17t with a genuine shimano 16t. Standard xt RD, no clutch and didn't even touch my chain, so I could shorten it if need be but with 6months of Hilton, Howick, Karkloof only one chain drop coming sideways out of a rocky berm it's hundreds. Narrow wides work amazingly well IMO, no need for chain guide. I'd say go with 32 in front to start and see how you go.

[_C50_]

All you need is a 36t Rapide NW chainring in the front, your standard 11-36 at the back, and a bit of HTFU. Sorted.

[MTBc]

All you need is a 36t Rapide NW chainring in the front, your standard 11-36 at the back, and a bit of HTFU. Sorted.

 

Ya, but have you tried riding uphill?

[_C50_]

Ya, but have you tried riding uphill?

 

I've done TransBaviaans like that without getting off my mtb, other than at a checkpoint. There are few little climbs inbetween Willowmore and Plett. 

 

There's a few decent climbs on the Bottelary Hills, where i ride often, which I all manage without getting off.

 

In case you were wondering... I'm not a flyweight 60kg rider. I'm 1.94m tall.

[mtbride]

I've got a 34T with 11-36 and did the whole Hakahana black route with it. Suffered but made it. I feel the 34 is the perfect middle ground. There are sections of 15% - 20% incline, was using the 36 at the back for those ...

 

Only thing is I had to ask my buddy to move over, as he was spinning at 90rpm, and with the 34/36 combo you cannot go so slow to turn the pedals over.

 

But for R1000 I'm not going for the 42T and 16T conversion.

[SimpleDom]

I've done TransBaviaans like that without getting off my mtb, other than at a checkpoint. There are few little climbs inbetween Willowmore and Plett.

 

There's a few decent climbs on the Bottelary Hills, where i ride often, which I all manage without getting off.

 

In case you were wondering... I'm not a flyweight 60kg rider. I'm 1.94m tall.

For the rest of us humans, big climbs like a 32.

 

I ride a 36 up front until I have to ride a race with lots of climbing. Mainly because you either have too much traffic to deal with, or because it's nice to be able to rest a little on some big hills rather than crunching at max power all day.

[MTBc]

I've got a 34T with 11-36 and did the whole Hakahana black route with it. Suffered but made it. I feel the 34 is the perfect middle ground. There are sections of 15% - 20% incline, was using the 36 at the back for those ...

 

Only thing is I had to ask my buddy to move over, as he was spinning at 90rpm, and with the 34/36 combo you cannot go so slow to turn the pedals over.

 

But for R1000 I'm not going for the 42T and 16T conversion.

 

Agree on the 34 front, just think that a 32 is going to be too much spinning on the flats & downs.

 

36 at the rear is just not going to be enough for those 12% climbs on long rides for me right now, not enough of a machine like some of you okes.

[RicovdM]

Agree on the 34 front, just think that a 32 is going to be too much spinning on the flats & downs.

 

36 at the rear is just not going to be enough for those 12% climbs on long rides for me right now, not enough of a machine like some of you okes.

I did Isuzu 3 towers with a 34 up front and an 11-36 at the back. No problems with any of the climbs. Never had to push. Just had to stand and pedal on some of the climbs. I found that I actually climbed faster and more efficiently than spinning in my granny gear.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Agree on the 34 front, just think that a 32 is going to be too much spinning on the flats & downs.

 

36 at the rear is just not going to be enough for those 12% climbs on long rides for me right now, not enough of a machine like some of you okes.

Go with your gut feeling, it's more of a pi$$ing contest to be able to say "I push a 36 up front". I have a 32 and don't have any problems on flats or downs, in fact I klapped a 56km/hr downhill section no problem

Just remember guys like Schurter, Kulhavy, etc push 36's and 38's, do you train often and hard enough to match those kind of mattage figures??

I think it is better to just start with a 32T and assess it from there

[Fisan]

Go with your gut feeling, it's more of a pi$$ing contest to be able to say "I push a 36 up front". I have a 32 and don't have any problems on flats or downs, in fact I klapped a 56km/hr downhill section no problem

Just remember guys like Schurter, Kulhavy, etc push 36's and 38's, do you train often and hard enough to match those kind of mattage figures??

I think it is better to just start with a 32T and assess it from there

 

I'm also a first timer on this 1x10 thing. Converted my bike last week 32 x 11-36. There were a couple of times (on the tar roads) where might have been better off with a 34+ up front. But there were more instances where I was glad I had the 32T (13% climbs) - Jonkershoek can be cruel sometimes...

 

So basically, I'm just going to repeat what the other okes said: its about context (where and what you ride), and how fit you are.

[MTBc]

"I push a 36 up front".

 

That's exactly what I'll do push

[MTBc]

how much of a difference (if even at all noticeable) is wheelsize when looking at gearing ratios?

 

Looking at the circumference of 26 and 29, there's apparently (according to some google results) ~10% difference. 11x32 vs 11x34 gearing has ~5% difference in ratio.  so 1 crank turn on the smaller wheel base would need a little less power as there's less distance covered.

 

I'm not using this as a basis for what setup I'll be going with (I've worked out the ratios of different options and riding those ratios on my existing 3x10 to see how I feel). This is more just a bit of a brain fart.

[mtbride]

how much of a difference (if even at all noticeable) is wheelsize when looking at gearing ratios?

 

Looking at the circumference of 26 and 29, there's apparently (according to some google results) ~10% difference. 11x32 vs 11x34 gearing has ~5% difference in ratio.  so 1 crank turn on the smaller wheel base would need a little less power as there's less distance covered.

 

I'm not using this as a basis for what setup I'll be going with (I've worked out the ratios of different options and riding those ratios on my existing 3x10 to see how I feel). This is more just a bit of a brain fart.

 

You can play around with this tool http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#29I1371I1X29I1567I1 to see the differences between 26 and 29 etc.

[tunariaan]

Stayed standard at the back and went for 34 in front

It goes everywhere

Try it for say 2 weeks before spending too much money