Possible rear shock bushing wear?

[Raydek]

What's bright mild steel?

 

Polished maybe??

[Brian Fantana]

 

What's bright mild steel?

 

Polished maybe??

 

Not polished.

 

It is a common industry term for EN3A (if I remeber correctly - could be EN3b). Also called 070M20. It is mild steel with a slightly higher carbon content. Regular mild steel (the stuff you buy at hardware shops) has a maximum carbon content of 0.18% while EN3A/B has a maximum carbon content of 0.25%. It is slightly harder wearing while still maintaining excellent machinability.

 

I suspect the term "bright" comes from the bright appearance of the round and square bar in which EN3A is supplied sometimes.

Edited September 8, 2014 by Brian Fantana

[droo]

Not polished.

 

It is a common industry term for EN3A (if I remeber correctly - could be EN3b). Also called 070M20. It is mild steel with a slightly higher carbon content. Regular mild steel (the stuff you buy at hardware shops) has a maximum carbon content of 0.18% while EN3A/B has a maximum carbon content of 0.25%. It is slightly harder wearing while still maintaining excellent machinability.

 

I suspect the term "bright" comes from the bright appearance of the round and square bar in which EN3A is supplied sometimes.

 

The bright part is indeed because it is shiny.

 

Thanks for the rest of the detail though.

[DirtyFrank]

Hi DirtyFrank

 

Who installed the needle bearing for you?

I did it myself , relatively easy.

 

Did you require special tools?

 

You need to push out the fox bushing, I made my own bearing puller with a bolt and some washers, The bolt head was an exact fit to pull the bushing out (8mm bolt) used a suitably sized hex socket as the spacer on the other side with some thick washers as a thrust face. Fitting the needle roller essentially reverse the procedure with a thick washer behind the bolt head to protect the needle bearing and a bit of insulation tape wound around the bolt tread to protect the bearing.

The pics attached will give you an idea. 1st pic shows all the bits and pieces with the bushing i removed in the foreground and the 2 aluminium half bushings.

3d pic shows the way to bolted it through the eyelet( imagine shock is attached with socket being the receiving thrust face

2nd pic shows the junk you will replace.

The bearing ships with a couple of s/s internal bushes in different sizes so that you can get a nice smooth fit. The spacer on the side of the bearing is taken up by two funky anodized seals which you can order in any colour.

 

And, where did you say you ordered the RWC from?

Staright from endura, they have a comprehensive catalogue. I think i paid around R370 ( probably 2 years ago at least) Ordinary First class USPS times approx 2-3 weeks max.

Info@enduroforkseals.com

 

Oh yes, what about the lower / bottom bushing?

 

I have never had issues with this bearings. I think the problem is at the top bearing which is probably more active in the Maesto type bikes i.m.o. due to the rocker motion

 

Did you get 2x sets of bearings and fitted top and bottom?

 

Thx

Edited September 8, 2014 by DirtyFrank

[Brian Fantana]

This is the tool I use for removal and installation of DU bushes:

 

 

[Skylark]

 

Not polished.

 

It is a common industry term for EN3A (if I remeber correctly - could be EN3b). Also called 070M20. It is mild steel with a slightly higher carbon content. Regular mild steel (the stuff you buy at hardware shops) has a maximum carbon content of 0.18% while EN3A/B has a maximum carbon content of 0.25%. It is slightly harder wearing while still maintaining excellent machinability.

 

I suspect the term "bright" comes from the bright appearance of the round and square bar in which EN3A is supplied sometimes.

 

Won't that be prone to corroding a little easily on a mtb, specially used on an unlubricated bushing?

But it's obviously working on your bike though

[Brian Fantana]

 

Won't that be prone to corroding a little easily on a mtb, specially used on an unlubricated bushing?

But it's obviously working on your bike though

 

I have not found corrosion to be a problem. There are very small spots of surface corrosion when I disassemble, but it is easily removed.

 

The anodised 3-piece mounting hardware from Rockshox is also an excellent option.

 

The two piece mounting hardware seems to have problems, which must be why Fox moved to polymer bushes and mounting hardware about two years ago.

[droo]

I have not found corrosion to be a problem. There are very small spots of surface corrosion when I disassemble, but it is easily removed.

 

The anodised 3-piece mounting hardware from Rockshox is also an excellent option.

 

The two piece mounting hardware seems to have problems, which must be why Fox moved to polymer bushes and mounting hardware about two years ago.

 

Those 2 piece kits are useless. Anything with a solid shaft works great, hence the RS and IGUS sets doing the job properly, although the plastic IGUS bushing wears pretty quickly.

 

The bombproof solution (as you've found) is a polished steel shaft with a standard DU bush - the shaft will never wear, and the bush can be replaced easily.

[ThePubSA]

What bike ? some bikes seem more prone to this, especially Giant. The aluminium half bushes are very soft and wear quickly, used to drive me crazy, Replaced them with Endura needle roller kit and have never looked back. You need to drive out the fox eylet bushing to replace it with the needle roller. pretty straightforward job but if you are not mechanically minded rather get a bike shop to do it for you. I ordered over e-bay from USA, company called Real World Cycling. great service from them. Maybe there is an SA importer for Endura products but in my experience the bike shops are not very clued up on this so you may as well order direct.

My cousin in UK swears by these... rekons can even make a k@k shock feel plush

[Skylark]

 

Those 2 piece kits are useless. Anything with a solid shaft works great, hence the RS and IGUS sets doing the job properly, although the plastic IGUS bushing wears pretty quickly.

 

The bombproof solution (as you've found) is a polished steel shaft with a standard DU bush - the shaft will never wear, and the bush can be replaced easily.

 

That's a clever solution!

So you get an engineering shop to make the shaft and get the DU bushings from BMG?

Depending on the frame you'll probably also need some spacers to put on either side of the shaft