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Building a Cyclo Cross bike


Meerkat82

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Posted

Most CX frames will require the old MTB standard, 135mm rear and 100mm front, hub spacing running QR. However, some newer 'all-road/ gravel grind' frames are running TA's.

 

In addition, many of the steel frames will accept a 130mm rear hub - they just flex to take up the 2.5mm on either side when bolted up.

I've got 29" shimano wheels about R 3500 from Evobikes on my Cotic x. The tyres are Contental CycloXKing 35mm. They wear very quickly. As far as brakes go i have BB5s but they don't work very well because the pull ratios are wrong. (you either drag the pads or you have very little braking) You need BB5 or 7 which are road specific. I fitted a shimano caliper on the front to try an improve braking, it is a bit better but is also not road specific. I am not sure if it is just my bike but if I brake as hard as I can the QR axle can move position on the front fork unless you tighten it really really tightly. TA will solve this if it is a general problem.

 

As far as handling goes I unfortunately the cotic x does not steer very quickly and feels quite dead. Maybe a combination of the chrome moly frame, frame size and slack fork angle are the cause. My Colanago road bike feels better on paths and handles a lot better

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Posted

I have had a very different experience with my 58cm Cotic X

 

Started off with the conventional fork, moved to a Lynskey CX fork then finally on a Surly Disc Trucker fork.

 

The bike has felt very responsive through all these incarnations, and I find steering precise and predictable.

 

Ride quality is good and the frame, though a tad flexy, is durable and bulletproof.

BB7 road calipers have saved my ass a few times and I have run Gatorskins for three out of the last four years. The bike is now shod in Schwalbe Marathon Extreme tyres, which are extremely hard-wearing in their intended environment.

Actually, it will be - once it returns from powder-coating.

 

Wheels are custom built - one set for road, one for gravel. Stiff and solid as heck.

 

This frame's a keeper, for sure.

 

Love it to bits.

Posted

I am with chro mo, my X frame is extremely agile. A little too flexible under power  but then again I am not winning any races so that doesn't really matter.

Posted

Thanks for all responses from various hubbers.

 

Choices, choices, choices!!!! And it's only 11h00.

 

 

That PX is great but it ain't a cross bike. sorry.  :ph34r:

 

edit: in fact neither is the Niner. 

 

*Flame suit on.

Posted

That PX is great but it ain't a cross bike. sorry.  :ph34r:

 

edit: in fact neither is the Niner. 

 

*Flame suit on.

What's the criterion for a cross bike? Geos I assume?

 

I bought me a PX, mostly because: price, and I wanted a relaxed road bike that I could do gravel grinding with. Also bought rims that can handle road pressures.

Posted

What's the criterion for a cross bike? Geos I assume?

 

I bought me a PX, mostly because: price, and I wanted a relaxed road bike that I could do gravel grinding with. Also bought rims that can handle road pressures.

 

I'm trolling.

 

don't get me wrong that "London Road" is great and I nearly bought one myself.

 

it will do everything you want it to do, I'm fairly sure of that.

 

for me the following backs me up though.

 

down tube cables, sloping to tube and bottle cage mounts :)

Posted

down tube cables, sloping to tube and bottle cage mounts :)

Gotta say, the cables was almost a show stopper for me. Will be fun trying to keep the cables clean after a ride on a muddy track :).

Not sure what the problem with the bottle cage mounts is tho?

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