igg Posted October 23, 2015 Share Sounds like you've dug deep into what makes your body tick. I'm not a medical person, so am not trying to diagnose at all; just sharing for info. I also pronate, am prone to ITB, patella tracking issues, my knees used to splay like I was communicating in semaphore. But I found that modifying my squat, heel raise etc gym routine in the following way has helped enormously. Recruit ones hip flexors by squeezing a small ball, or rolled-up towel between your knees when doing most gym exercises. Eg squats, heel raises, relevant core work where your knees are positioned close together. Now my knees track much more vertically, and the tendency to splay is much less when I'm tired consequently I get far less ITB, knee pain etc. But none of that will bring back the paint I rubbed off with my heel Hah, sounds like you know the pain (literally & figuratively). Previously I was on my arse after 30km due to ITB, I'm now up to about 50km after the setup changes, rehab exercises, and lots of self-inflicted pain courtesy of PVC core foam roller (daily routine). I'm probably just going to wrap the hell out of the chainstay with gorilla tape for now. It's mostly invisible on the black frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted October 23, 2015 Share This is my foot in its neutral position: From another angle This is the amount of float I have: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOOK695 Posted October 23, 2015 Share This is my foot in its neutral position:20151023_154519.jpg From another angle20151023_154901.jpg This is the amount of float I have:20151023_154449.jpgThat is very close. My heel also tends to point inwards. I am also keen on this frame, but if it is a real issue, it would worry me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted October 23, 2015 Share That is very close. My heel also tends to point inwards. I am also keen on this frame, but if it is a real issue, it would worry meCan't say how it would work for you, but maybe it will teach me to concentrate on my pedal stroke a bit more. I wonder if the frame designer had small feet. You could fit a 200mm disc there with spans of clearance, though I'm not sure why you would ever want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted October 24, 2015 Share This is the amount of float I have:20151023_154449.jpg Are you running a spacer between the BB cup and the frame? It's a 68mm shell, requiring 1x 2.5mm spacer on the non drive side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOOK695 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Are you running a spacer between the BB cup and the frame? It's a 68mm shell, requiring 1x 2.5mm spacer on the non drive side.Would the spacer come with the crankset, or is it sold seperately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted October 24, 2015 Share Would the spacer come with the crankset, or is it sold seperately? Should get three 2.5mm spacers with a crankset. 68mm shells usually take 2 on the drive side and 1 non drive side. A 73mm shell needs 1 on the drive side. Not much but, when you're talking 5-10mm clearance it's a 25-50% increase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted October 24, 2015 Share I received no spacers with the crank, are you sure this is supposed to be run with a spacer? The non-drive side crank lines up flush with the axle splines, if I put a spacer in there, this would no longer be true and would be recessed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted October 24, 2015 Share I received no spacers with the crank, are you sure this is supposed to be run with a spacer? The non-drive side crank lines up flush with the axle splines, if I put a spacer in there, this would no longer be true and would be recessed. What grouppo? It initially looked like a Shimano cup but on second look it looks like a GXP... Shimano will need a spacer. GXP not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igg Posted October 24, 2015 Share What grouppo? It initially looked like a Shimano cup but on second look it looks like a GXP... Shimano will need a spacer. GXP not.GXP; sram rival crank.Struggling to find any documentation, but it seems a spacer is optional on a 68mm shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted October 24, 2015 Share GXP; sram rival crank.Struggling to find any documentation, but it seems a spacer is optional on a 68mm shell.As above. GXP doesn't require it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gummibear Posted October 30, 2015 Share Even Spartacus ride CX Gandalf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted October 30, 2015 Share Introducing On-One's answer to the adventure bike market... the On-One BishBashBosh... On-One BishBashBosh.jpg "The Bish Bash Bosh is our ultimate Gravel / Adventure bike. It combines comfortable, mile-eating geometry with agile handling, massive mud and tyre clearance as well as frame mounts for mudguards and rear panniers. There's no more capable adventure bike.The Bish Bash Bosh blends everything we've learnt from making award-winning Adventure bikes with our huge depth of experience in cyclocross and refines it all with our labours in making incredibly well regarded do-it-all commuter bikes. The Bish Bash Bosh is the most versatile, most capable and most adventurous bike we've ever made."Full Carbon, Gravel Adventure BikePannier and Mudguard MountsHigh Strength Toray T800 Carbon FibreMassive 40mm Tyre ClearanceDi2 CompatibleCustomize Your Ideal Bike How much cheaper than a Stigmata? RRP is around approx. R23000 for the frameset. We're waiting pricing on this from Planet X and will post as soon as we have. In the meantime, some more pics... in Anthracite and Seville Orange. On-One BishBashBosh frame Grn.jpgOn-One BishBashBosh frame Org.jpg On-One BishBashBosh Sram Force1 HRD R42000.On-One BishBashBosh frameset R19500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Boab Posted November 2, 2015 Share Any of you Cotic X (generation 1) owners, or fundis, help me out with some crystal-ball gazing? 1. Seat post diameter? 2. FD clamp or brazed? 3. FD, if clamp, what diameter? 4. BB shell width, thread, type? 5. Dropout widths - front and rear? 6. If canti brakes are used, what range of wheel sizes can be used? 700 c? 26"? 29"? Thanking you in advance..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted November 2, 2015 Share Any of you Cotic X (generation 1) owners, or fundis, help me out with some crystal-ball gazing? 1. Seat post diameter? 27.2mm 2. FD clamp or brazed? Clamp 3. FD, if clamp, what diameter? 28.6mm bottom pull 4. BB shell width, thread, type? 68mm BSA 5. Dropout widths - front and rear? 100mm and 135mm 6. If canti brakes are used, what range of wheel sizes can be used? 700 c? 26"? 29"? 700C Thanking you in advance..... Edited November 2, 2015 by Ryanpmb Fat Boab 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Boab Posted November 2, 2015 Share Any of you Cotic X (generation 1) owners, or fundis, help me out with some crystal-ball gazing? 1. Seat post diameter? 27.2mm 2. FD clamp or brazed? Clamp 3. FD, if clamp, what diameter? 28.6mm bottom pull 4. BB shell width, thread, type? 68mm BSA 5. Dropout widths - front and rear? 100mm and 135mm 6. If canti brakes are used, what range of wheel sizes can be used? 700 c? 26"? 29"? 700C Thanking you in advance..... Ta muchly, Ryan! One question - aren't 700c the same diameter as 29"? Or at least the same ERD? Or am I a confused roadie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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