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Tubbie advice


DJR

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Posted

I need to buy a pair of tubbies and would appreciate advice. They will not be for racing, but rather for riding an old classic bike for fun, so puncture resistance is important, as is ride quality. Weight is not the main consideration.

 

I have always had good results with Continental Gatorskin clinchers, and I tend to have very few punctures, even when riding Grand Prix 4000 clinchers. Are the tubular Gatorskins as good in this department, or should I also consider other makes also?  

Posted

The tubbie Gatorskin Sprinters are even more puncture resistant that the clinchered version.

 

Stick with them and you will have many happy miles on them.

 

Just a waring ... they go for around R1000 to R1200 a pop now!!

Gone are the good old days of R350 a tubby!

Posted

Thanks Tankman

 

Next question:

 

I've never fitted tubbies before. I've checked some "how  to" videos and it seems fairly straight forward but time consuming. Anything from 1 to 3 days to complete the process. Should I try it myself or rather take it to my LBS? I have a good mechanic that I trust although I'm pretty handy myself.

 

If I decide to do it myself, should I use glue or tape? How do I get the old glue off first? Any special tricks?

Posted

The old "3 days to complete" process is the way they did it when the tv was still black and white.

They use 1 day to stretch" the tubby, glue the next and another to dry.

 

The stretching does help if you are not familiar with the technique or if they are they GPX4000 tubbies!  Just pop them over a clincher wheel, inflate to around 8 bar and leave them overnight.

 

I do mine in 45 minutes and I only use glue, never trusted that tape before but I can see how it can be handy as an emergency when you are out in the middle of nowhere.

 

Although... I have taken a punctured tubby off, put my spare on and cycled 50km back home without glue or tape. Obviously try and keep straight lines and not cut any corners like a mad boy but if it is inflated hard enough and some of your old glue is still on the rim, it is not going to just come off that easily.

 

The process is straight forward:

 

Apply glue to rim - leave old glue on, provides better grip and dont drip glue down the spoke holes.

Apply glue to tubby.

By that time the glue (Continental Carbon Rim Cement) on the rim would have dried sufficiently.

Pop on the tubby. This is where technique comes in handy. 

Inflate to around 1 bar, just enough for the tubby to take shape.

Spin wheel and seat the tubby properly. You want it center everywhere.

Put pressure on the wheel and roll the it around the valve area to seat that properly also.

Inflate to 12 bar (or whatever max the tire states) ... leave them be for half a day to dry.

 

Put them in your bike and enjoy the swooshing sound they make and how fast you now go!!

Posted

Try it yourself, you will say "that's was easy" afterwards and feel better about doing it yourself. I always use glue and was told by my LBS that the tape does not stick as well. If the old glue is recent I would not take it off unless its really ancient and / or all lumpy. I use toluene to clean my rims (carbon) but that's only because I can get it at work and know it works well...caution its not really skin friendly. Not sure what you can get easily but anything that is made to remove contact adhesive will work. Be careful of any decals on your rims you don't want to smudge them. Don't clean them till they all shiny and glue free, just clean off all the old lumpy bits...the old glue will still stick like crazy.

Posted

Tankman & Swiss

 

Thanks for the advice. I will get contact adhesive remover and clean up the old glue first. It is for a 20+ year old pair of Shamals and the old glue is rock hard and lumpy.

Posted

Ok, ok, gimme cash and we can do them for R900 each.

Is that a firm offer or will it go even lower if I send a hot blond with the cash? :D

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