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Going Tubeless on Road Bike


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Posted

I have easton ea90slx (tubeless ready). I had entry mavics before.

I put 7000kms on my entry vittaros with no punctures.  Infact, 7000kms without punctures until last week when I rode my bike over a field after 99er with thousands of thorns (I didnt know).

 

By that rationale, going tubes gives you 7000kms on tire life with zero punctures? Not quite.

Its down to luck, where you ride.

 

As mentioned before, if you someone that gets pinch flats, then do it.

 

My logic, go 8bar or go home. best remedy. I did switch to 25mm, That seems to be the it thing to do these days wheels wise.

I ride 25mm too. Am I right in assuming that you have never run tubeless?
Posted

I have never, as i didnt have a puncture until last week, dont want to mess with a formula that works. I went 25mm as my old tires were just worn and the LBS recommended them.  They comfy, and I imagine the extra volume of air makes them less susceptible to pinch flats too.

Posted

@ Newboy I have ridden two sets of the schwalbe one tubeless tyres. Please don't waste your money they are lighter but not as puncture resistant as the Hutchinson. You will be disappointed.

Posted

The theory behind road tubeless is a stiffer lighter rim without spoke holes on the inside (at least according to mavic), so in theory if you remove the tube and keep the wheel weight the same or lighter and improve strength, one should get an improved ride and better acceleration, etc. Simply a nicer faster more comfortable bike.

 

In practice for everyday riding and training, light wheels are not very practical. I worked in the trade, and for training puposes i would stick with the good old tubed setup. Its mostly for economy and durability for the daily grind. Also if you are heavier, like me I'm 115kg, a 25c or 28c tyre is much softer for long days in the saddle. Test fit 28's before you buy as many frames can have clearance issues with taller tyres.

 

If you have issues changing tubes on the roadside, invest in foldables as often the are easier to mount without levers than steel bead tyres.

 

The best milage I have very achieved was on the best tyres I have ever owned. Conti GP4000 foldable 23c. I bought them out of a mark down bin for R100 each and did nearly 8000km on them before I started getting punctures. The tyres were square by then, but still bright yellow. Swapped them for Gatorskins, wasn't as happy, but still not bad.

Posted

@ Newboy I have ridden two sets of the schwalbe one tubeless tyres. Please don't waste your money they are lighter but not as puncture resistant as the Hutchinson. You will be disappointed.

Thanks for the advice. Only reason I would have considered them is that they come in a 25.

Posted

Thanks for all the info. I've taken the plunge and converted both bikes to tubeless. I could unfortunately not find enough stock of the Hutchison and had to use Schwalbe One's. Our Syncros/DT Swiss wheelsets are technically not tubeless ready, but it has a nice edge and my LBS also thought it's worth a try. I couldn't find 21mm rim tape anywhere and eventually ended up having my LBS do the conversion (they had 21mm on one of those massive workshop rolls). The tires seated perfectly on 1st attempt and have not lost any air yet. I did my first ride on it this morning and all felt fine. Time will tell....

Posted

I converted my American Classic Aero 420s using stans rim tape and sealant and Hutchinson Atom Galactik tubeless tyres in November. Had minor issues seating the one but worked fine after using a compressor. Rode 94.7 and DC no problems. Sadly have been away from home for months now so not sure how they are holding up.

Posted

riding Stan's Alpha rims with Schwalbe rubber, one puncture (since August 2013) in the rain, which sealed itself.

 

Ride with 80psi for a very comfortable ride.

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