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converting 2x10 to 1x10


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Ok so I have a xo 2x10 set up and want to convert to 1x10.

I want to get a clutch derailurer (x9).

I want to know what blade will fit my current crank normal xo gxp 2x10 crank.

How does the gearing work at the back I understand you remove the 17 and put a 40 or 42 on.

I see some guys getting a 16 where does that go.

Jacques

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Ok so I have a xo 2x10 set up and want to convert to 1x10.

I want to get a clutch derailurer (x9).

Clutch deraulleur doesn't make a difference IMO. It only reduces the annoyance of chain slapping. If your chainring-chainlength setup is sufficient you shouldn't struggle with chain drops.

I want to know what blade will fit my current crank normal xo gxp 2x10 crank.

Be on the lookout for a 104 BCD ring (or measure your BCD to double check since you do get 120 BCD versions). A 32T NW chainring (Raceface, Kitted, Kalbo, Rapide, etc.) is usually a good start for 29ers.

 

How does the gearing work at the back I understand you remove the 17 and put a 40 or 42 on.

From Kalbo's website: "Either the 15t or 17t sprocket needs to be removed to make space for the expander sprocket, however for best results we recommend removing both the 15t & 17t sprockets and replacing with 16t sprocket to even out the shifting progression and give smoother shifting"

Also note that some cassettes have pinned sprockets (eg SLX cassette) to spread the torque on the freewheel surface, making it difficult to do the sprocket extension.

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you don't need to change anything about the cassette tbh, 11-36t 10 spd is plenty of gears :)

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Just adding to Koei's post, most higher end SRAM cranks are 120 BCD, and seeing as you are using an XO crank, I'm almost 100% sure it is a 120 BCD.

 

Other than that, you should be fine without a clutch derailleur if you don't already have one.

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you don't need to change anything about the cassette tbh, 11-36t 10 spd is plenty of gears :)

Agreed your legs will get stronger and stronger then soon you will be annoyed for having a useless 40 or 42t sprocket on the back. Plus if your going 9 speed and your want to run 11-40 you are going to be making a massive jump somewhere!

Though if you do it then listen to Koei and replace the 15 and 17 with a 16.

 

My humble 1X10 5cents.

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Agreed your legs will get stronger and stronger then soon you will be annoyed for having a useless 40 or 42t sprocket on the back. Plus if your going 9 speed and your want to run 11-40 you are going to be making a massive jump somewhere!

Though if you do it then listen to Koei and replace the 15 and 17 with a 16.

 

My humble 1X10 5cents.

x9. As in SRAM X9...

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Just adding to Koei's post, most higher end SRAM cranks are 120 BCD, and seeing as you are using an XO crank, I'm almost 100% sure it is a 120 BCD.

 

Other than that, you should be fine without a clutch derailleur if you don't already have one.

The bcd on SRAM spiders is determined by the original chain rings sizes. Cranks that had 26/39 or 28/42 setups will have spiders with bcd of 80/120. Cranks that had 22/36 or 24/38 chainrings will have bcd's of 64/104.

 

This exists in X9 and X0 type cranks.

 

Not determined by whether they're high end or not.

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If you not going or aiming to win races I really do not understand why one want compromise by going 1/10 or 1/11..... Does not matter how you look at it it stays a compromise....

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I tried 1x10 on one of my bikes and loved the simplicity and with a 34t at the front and 11-40 at the back I had enough gears for most hills, but every now and then I would have to walk.  Went back to 2x10 and prefer having the granny gear when I need it.

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Suffice to say that if I had only one bike I would not have a 1*x groupset but that's maybe just me?

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I use 1x10 with SRAM X7 which is the same derailleur as X9. The chain does come off if you ride hard enough, even with a narrow wide chain ring in the front, so I have a small chain guide on the top of the front chain ring. You don't need this with a clutch derailleur. With the chain coming off I did trash one rear derailleur, so this is not a problem you can ignore.

 

Kalbo.co.za sell the big cogs for the back, also the 16 tooth smaller cog. I have both and they work well. I used to think that the 40 tooth wasn't required, 36 was good enough. After changing I am very happy with it.

 

The Kalbo is 108 BCD in the front, so I had to change the spider on my SRAM front crank set.

 

The hassle of converting is not really worth it, however, once you have it working properly it is great. The set up works really well in mud, also I have a dropper seat post, so don't want too many levers in the front of the bike.

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If you not going or aiming to win races I really do not understand why one want compromise by going 1/10 or 1/11..... Does not matter how you look at it it stays a compromise....

costs vs benefits....

 

And to be honest, only once encountered the costs, which is forced HTFU.

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costs vs benefits....

 

And to be honest, only once encountered the costs, which is forced HTFU.

 

The 'upgrades' were free?

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Sold the blades on the XT crank, FD, front shifter. Bought a hope 32t chanring for R400. Actually came down to a profit..

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