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Can I remove my Pushloc?


Rick Sanchez

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Hi Guys

 

I have a Reba 29er fork with a Pushloc Remote, which has no spring tension anymore (must be defective).

 

I never lockout my fork anyway, so I do  not use the remote and was wondering if I could simply remove it?

 

Will this affect the fork in any way?

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Mine was involuntarily removed. :wacko:

 

If you move the cap into the lockout position, it cannot go back.

 

I was riding it like that until I got it sorted.

 

interesting times.

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Mine was involuntarily removed. :wacko:

 

If you move the cap into the lockout position, it cannot go back.

 

I was riding it like that until I got it sorted.

 

interesting times.

If you move the cap into the lockout position if there is no pushloc installed?

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Rather try and diagnose the problem. I had exactly the same problem, when I realised there was slack in the remote's cable, causing the fork to be half locked the whole time. 

 

I simply loosened the clamp bolt at the cap, pulled the cable tight (while the remote was in the locked-out position) and refastened it. 

 

See if that could be the problem. 

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Rather try and diagnose the problem. I had exactly the same problem, when I realised there was slack in the remote's cable, causing the fork to be half locked the whole time. 

 

I simply loosened the clamp bolt at the cap, pulled the cable tight (while the remote was in the locked-out position) and refastened it. 

 

See if that could be the problem. 

Thanks will definitely give this a try. What fork do you have, also a Reba?

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I assume it is a cable operated remote.  These usually stop working because of the cable kinking or dirt in the cable.  Otherwise often dirt in the top cap seal on the damper causes it to stick.  If you remove the lock out mechanism the spring should default to the open position and the fork will operate with no lock out. Here is how to clean the seal.

 

1. Remove the lockout mech from the top of the damper.  

2. Use a small shifter to rotate the lockout to the open position if necessary.

3. With a 24mm spanner remove the damper cartridge.  Remove it carefully from the stanchion 'cause they can break - especially the black and grey cartridges.

4.  Before you remove the top cap from the cartridge check out how it operates.  Rotate the lockout with a spanner and check how the opening on the foot of the cartridge opens and closes.  When you put it back together you may have to move the shaft 180 deg to get it right.

5. To remove the top cap slide a 4mm hex key through one of the slots in the cartridge body. Then using the 24mm spanner turn the top cap CLOCKWISE to remove it.  Chances are the spring and shaft will now dislodge.  Clean it all up and re grease the U seal.

6. Refit the shaft, spring and topcap.  Check that the aperture opens and closes when the lockout is rotated and that the spring has enough tension.

7. Replace the damper in the stanchion. Test that the lockout works before refitting the cable mech.  

8. If all fails bring it to me.

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Thanks will definitely give this a try. What fork do you have, also a Reba?

 

Nope, a SID. But have a read through Dave's suggestions. He's more knowledgeable than me. I just offered a solution to a very specific problem I encountered. 

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I assume it is a cable operated remote.  These usually stop working because of the cable kinking or dirt in the cable.  Otherwise often dirt in the top cap seal on the damper causes it to stick.  If you remove the lock out mechanism the spring should default to the open position and the fork will operate with no lock out. Here is how to clean the seal.

 

1. Remove the lockout mech from the top of the damper.  

2. Use a small shifter to rotate the lockout to the open position if necessary.

3. With a 24mm spanner remove the damper cartridge.  Remove it carefully from the stanchion 'cause they can break - especially the black and grey cartridges.

4.  Before you remove the top cap from the cartridge check out how it operates.  Rotate the lockout with a spanner and check how the opening on the foot of the cartridge opens and closes.  When you put it back together you may have to move the shaft 180 deg to get it right.

5. To remove the top cap slide a 4mm hex key through one of the slots in the cartridge body. Then using the 24mm spanner turn the top cap CLOCKWISE to remove it.  Chances are the spring and shaft will now dislodge.  Clean it all up and re grease the U seal.

6. Refit the shaft, spring and topcap.  Check that the aperture opens and closes when the lockout is rotated and that the spring has enough tension.

7. Replace the damper in the stanchion. Test that the lockout works before refitting the cable mech.  

8. If all fails bring it to me.

Thanks a lot, will definitely give this a go tonight :thumbup:

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Re the cable - can be a bitch to get the tension right.  Too little, no lockout, too much and no "click".  Be careful not to overdo the cable clamp grub screw as they are easy to strip.  When you next replace the cable add an in line cable housing tensioner, the type used on gear cables.  Makes adjustment much easier.

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Re the cable - can be a bitch to get the tension right.  Too little, no lockout, too much and no "click".  Be careful not to overdo the cable clamp grub screw as they are easy to strip.  When you next replace the cable add an in line cable housing tensioner, the type used on gear cables.  Makes adjustment much easier.

Thanks for all the help, David. Really appreciate it :)

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Re the cable - can be a bitch to get the tension right.  Too little, no lockout, too much and no "click".  Be careful not to overdo the cable clamp grub screw as they are easy to strip.  When you next replace the cable add an in line cable housing tensioner, the type used on gear cables.  Makes adjustment much easier.

BTW, is it possible to replace the remote lockout with a crown mounted lockout?

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Rather try and diagnose the problem. I had exactly the same problem, when I realised there was slack in the remote's cable, causing the fork to be half locked the whole time. 

 

I simply loosened the clamp bolt at the cap, pulled the cable tight (while the remote was in the locked-out position) and refastened it. 

 

See if that could be the problem. 

 

Bought a Reba from CWC a month ago, fitted it this week.

 

Had exactly the same issue. Except I think it's the other way around, when there is no tension the remote is locked. (2014 Reba).  When I installed the fork, I had the pushloc in the unlocked position, and I wanted to ensure there was enough cable tension, and ended up pulling the cable through too far such that the remote was still somewhat locked even when the remote was in the "unlocked" position..

Since CWC is just 2km from my house I almost took it back to them but tried one last time to fit the cable without putting too much tension on it and when I screwed it on it worked perfectly..

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BTW, is it possible to replace the remote lockout with a crown mounted lockout?

 

Yes. It's going to cost you a new damper though. PM me if you're interested, I've got a few second hand ones lying around.

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