Testing a carbon road frame

[Allrounder]

Hi people.

My father in law is interested in upgrading to a carbon frame. What things must be considered?

Is there a place where one can test ride a carbon bike before dropping the cash?

Is there a big difference between aluminum frame with carbon fork and full carbon?

[Starvin' Marvin]

Give Andre a call 0825553422 he repairs carbon and does awesome work. I'm sure he will help you with a once over on the frame.

[Butterbean]

Consider whether carbon really is the best material for our riding needs.

 

Consider your weight. Carbon is mighty strong but as a heavier rider, you're on your nerves with any big bumps on our road surfaces. The worst is hitting a speed bump at speed!

 

Consider your budget - low end carbon frames are normally not as good as a high end Ali frame. If you're spending big, then carbon is a safe bet for most retail bikes bar a few cannondales.

 

Most bike shops will let you test ride a bike before you buy it. Otherwise, ask a mate who has one of you can ride his. This is allowed for bikes, but not for wives.

 

Ali frame and carbon fork is still a harsh but stiff and responsive ride. More engineered Ali frames like the CAAD frames from cannondale are just as smooth and stiff as a lot of carbon frames. Full carbon can be smooth but can also be harsh - all depends on how it was made (geometry, carbon thickness and layup styles all contribute to the ride quality). Not all carbon frames are stiff. Not all carbon frames are superior.

 

Carbon forks will normally improve almost any material, except for some mega money products. In the field we play in, it's normally your safest bet.

 

Buying second hand is not as risky as you may think, but get it checked by a Bike shop that you spend money at regularly to make sure.

 

Carbon can almost always be repaired - Ali normally can't but you can keep riding it after a big knock. Steel is real and still the best in my personal biased opinion.

[David Marshall]

My opinion, frame fit is more important than material.  As said above a carbon fork and seat stays add to rider comfort and handling.   As I see it these days aluminium is now used on entry and mid level bikes with heavier tubing to give durability and carbon on the higher end frames.  This has led to the perception that  "carbon is better" however a good aluminium frame is hard to beat.  I rode a 2003 Scott AFD Pro until it fatigued under me and it was the lightest, fastest bike I have ridden.  That said if you are going to buy new you will most likely have to go carbon.

[Allrounder]

Thanks for the info guys. I will show him what the experienced guys say. 

[eddy]

How much does he want to spend ?

 

A bicycle is the sum of the parts and compromises are made whenever a bike is put together.

 

To meet price points, particularly when the consumer is after something new and hot (eg. carbon frame or an 11x groupset) something else is relatively under-specced.

 

As the wheels make up a significant part of the cost package, good savings can be made by the manufacturer by specifying cheaper, heavier wheels. This is BAD for you as, all other things being equal, spending more on wheels and less on a frame more often than not leads to a better ride.

 

Be careful. At certain price points it almost certainly would be better to buy an AL frame with better wheels than a Carbon one.

[gummibear]

Hi people.

My father in law is interested in upgrading to a carbon frame. What things must be considered?

Is there a place where one can test ride a carbon bike before dropping the cash?

Is there a big difference between aluminum frame with carbon fork and full carbon?

Buying carbon isn't always an upgrade.

 

What frame is he on at the moment?

[Allrounder]

He is still on his silverback arizona, all factory components, except for the compact crank that he installed afterwards. I did notice that on the highest possible position the handlebars is still very low

[Butterbean]

He is still on his silverback arizona, all factory components, except for the compact crank that he installed afterwards. I did notice that on the highest possible position the handlebars is still very low

Not a terrible bike but there are better out there.

 

If he's replacing the whole bike, then a low spec carbon bike with 105 will normally be quite good.

 

If he's looking to replace just the frame, he will likely end up much better off buying a nicely specced Aluminium bike with carbon fork and better group set an wheels. His budget may allow for that if he buys used (road bikes are normally a safe bet used) and he sells the Arizona complete.

 

Bear in mind the height of the handlebars was set like that. Either him, or the previous owner cut the steere down to that height, as standard they come fairly long. Frames do have something to do with it but not too much (head tube length is what comes into play here).

 

Good luck with the search!

[gummibear]

New models are being released at the moment so he could be able to get a good price on a 2014/15 model.

 

CycleFunatics in Durbanville was having a sale an had good deals.

[Allrounder]

Thanks again for the advice guys.

[A Jay]

You can also try Bridge Cycles in Diep River they are known for 'bettering' prices obtained from other shops. Good pricing on Spez and Cannondale.

[Allrounder]

We talked about all the things and advise you guys gave. Thanks again. It seems that he is leaning towards a new fork, and a decent set of wheels.

[Allrounder]

you guys really have me curious now, where can I find a steel bike in the northern suburbs to test and then buy? 

 

I have spent a lot of time reading up on this topic, and i am very curious. I am riding a aluminium trek at this stage, but there is so many good things being said about steel......