AlanD Posted December 8, 2017 Share The result of moving spacers to the bottom made no difference in loading the bearing so i moved them back as they originally were with the information above leading to it doesn't matter how you put your spacers really, as long as there is a few mils gap between steerer and stem/spacer, which brings me back to thw fact that either way, i have to really tighten the top bolt tight to eliminate play in the headset which does not bind up the steering at all which I'm presuming is ok right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLMTB Posted December 8, 2017 Share Please post a pic of the under side of the top cap you are using. I've had an issue in the past where the top cap had a lip, the outer lip itself is supposed to put pressure on the spacer/stem, but the bottom of the cap inside of the lip was a couple of millimeters thicker. This caused the top cap to make contact with the fork steerer before enough pressure could be applied to the the spacer/stem. No matter how much I tightened the bolt I effectively only tightened the top cap to the steerer and not to stem/spacers - meaning it was moer tight but I could feel no excessive biding.Hope that makes sense. I solved that by adding an additional 2.5mm spacer under the stem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanD Posted December 8, 2017 Share The top cap with the bolt is the one im using but i have the orher two as spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamS2 Posted December 8, 2017 Share The result of moving spacers to the bottom made no difference in loading the bearing so i moved them back as they originally were with the information above leading to it doesn't matter how you put your spacers really, as long as there is a few mils gap between steerer and stem/spacer, which brings me back to thw fact that either way, i have to really tighten the top bolt tight to eliminate play in the headset which does not bind up the steering at all which I'm presuming is ok right?I also have a nukeproof headset and also found I needed to load it quite well to seat the bearings from new. Don't stress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanD Posted December 8, 2017 Share I also have a nukeproof headset and also found I needed to load it quite well to seat the bearings from new. Don't stress.Ok cool. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted December 8, 2017 Share The result of moving spacers to the bottom made no difference in loading the bearing so i moved them back as they originally were with the information above leading to it doesn't matter how you put your spacers really, as long as there is a few mils gap between steerer and stem/spacer, which brings me back to thw fact that either way, i have to really tighten the top bolt tight to eliminate play in the headset which does not bind up the steering at all which I'm presuming is ok right? Nice stem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanD Posted December 8, 2017 Share Nice stem.It is. Its a chromag 31mm length stem and looks pretty sweet...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongooser Posted December 8, 2017 Share is the fork bearing upside down by any chance?if you did accidentally flip it over you will get play and no matter how tight it will rock forwards and tighten the steering up and cause some play i did that and couldn't figure out why it did that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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