Road wheel advice needed

[mrclarinet]

@David Marshall Thanks for all that detail. I realise it is hard to say for certain without the wheel in front of you, but do you think it is worth completely rebuilding my current 28 spoke wheel but retaining the current rim? Or is it likely that the damage has already been done and a new one will be needed?

[eccc whippet]

The trek...I felt 2 more spokes break on sunday...and found another broken...when i dropped off the wheel...my wheel is a 32 spoke...at a cost of 100 bucks including labour per spoke it becomes expensive...

 

However i dont believe the wheel brand is the problem...i believe the problem was the age of the wheel...the spokes have fatigued over time...this week i had the wheel checked hub and rim...both seem ok so replaced all 32 spokes at a cost R700 including labour and materials...

 

The fulcrum pro 5 (i have on the merida) had the bike checked at the lbs...they broke 1 spoke truing it...and that where problems started...there is a whole thread about it.

 

What i do want to point out...always replace the spoke with the correct type and if you have problems with fulcrum wheels...send then back to J&J...it is worth the postage and repair fee...whoever works on their wheels does a good job...even though i am too heavy for them...i have done over 1000 km since i got them back and still running perfect.

 

I have just invested in a second hand mavic equipe wheel set...weight limit 120 kg...will try them and see how they withstand my weight...one advantage...the freewheel body fits from an 8 -11 spd using a washer for 8 and 10 speed...checked and confirmed today...we physical installed the different size cassettes to make sure.

[Mopkop]

Probly off topic but here goes

 

I want to build a wheelset with 20/24 holes Fr/Rr, should I go with straight pull hubs(straight pull spokes) or normal hubs with the flange(J bend Spokes)

 

Price on the hubs are about the same

 

Thank you

[LOOK695]

Probly off topic but here goes

 

I want to build a wheelset with 20/24 holes Fr/Rr, should I go with straight pull hubs(straight pull spokes) or normal hubs with the flange(J bend Spokes)

 

Price on the hubs are about the same

 

Thank you

+1. Would also like to know

[madbradd]

I'm also a big fella currently 105ish, but rode panorama at 110. Rode the standard Mavic Aksiums on my TCR with no problems ever. 20/24 spoke, so of the list you have I'd probably go with them again.

 

In terms of straightpull vs J-bend, the answer I get always seems to be the same "J-bend because it's easier to find a replacement spoke if yours breaks". To me this answer also reads that straightpull have technical advantages, as there are never any "technical" advantages listed for J-Bends. Plus, straightpull look cooler. So if you get straightpull, ask the builder for a few spare spokes and then you're sorted

[Super J]

ok so here is my 5 cents..... I am well over 2 meters and a tad under 100kg, and yes, I bust crack wheels,frames and cranks, here is the secret, try get a set of old school training wheels, something like Campaq Atlantas, or Alu Cosmics, these things are bullet proof and because its a deep section alu rim, the flex is far less so the spokes don't take as much strain. My current Power Tap is built into American classic semi deep section and so far (3 years) I've bust 1 spoke. Where abouts are you situated, you welcome to try my Alu Cosmics, they just hanging at the moment.

[V12man]

Probly off topic but here goes

 

I want to build a wheelset with 20/24 holes Fr/Rr, should I go with straight pull hubs(straight pull spokes) or normal hubs with the flange(J bend Spokes)

 

Price on the hubs are about the same

 

Thank you

J bend - when you break a spoke they are easier to find replacements

[eccc whippet]

a tip for when investing in wheels from the coast...corrosion...no matter how strong the wheel might be brand new...no matter how many years of R&D have gone into the design and manufactering of the wheel...no matter how heavy you are are...etc etc...if the rim has corrosion from the salt air...you are pretty screwed.

if you want to see the condition of a wheel remove the tire and the tape and look through the whole and check if there is any corrosion...brass...aluminum and stainlesss steel react against each other...throw in a bit of salt air and things just get more interesting.

[eccc whippet]

A word of advice with regards to Mavic wheels...make sure that you use the correct spacers/washers when attaching the cassette...if not you gona find if you move the bib ring on the cassette it has play side to side.

 

If your Mavic wheels are second hand or getting old... shake the wheel to make sure it doesn't sound like there is a spoke nipple loose in the cavity...or when you riding there is not a clicking sound coming from the wheels...you can shake till the cows come home...the rattle will not fall out...the reason...because it is a piece of the joint...there is a simple solution remove the tyre and the rim tape and look for the 2 dents which is the rim joint...squeeze a bit of silicon into the hole...walla the noise is gone...the big question is should you replace the rim because that piece making the noise is the joint support ....it is a pity that with all the R&d gone into Mavic wheels they haven't figured out a way to prevent the corrosion...or the rusting spokes.

[nick_the_wheelbuilder]

Hi all,

 

Long time lurker, first time poster...

 

I'm having repeated issues with the back wheel on my Cannondale CAAD8 Tiagra. They're the Maddux RS 3.0 which seem to come standard with most entry level Cannondales. Twice I've had 2 spokes break and twice I've had the wheel fixed & trued. Now another spoke has broken. With all these repairs I'm feeling that this wheel may be irreparably flawed and that my money might be better spent on new wheels. But this is not an expense I was expecting, so money is tight. But at the same time I don't want to skimp and end up having to replace the new ones in a year anyway.

 

I am rather large - 6'5" & 110 kg (but hoping to lose some of that weight). Bike as is is about 9.8 kg, so almost 120 combined which seems to be a common limit for some wheels. I'm not planning on racing anytime soon, so within reason I'm not overly concerned about weight and would prefer durability. That said if none of the options in my price range are significantly superior to my current wheels then I'd probably just rather rebuild the wheel and save up more for later.

 

In the rough R3000 - R4000 range, the options seem to be:

Mavic Aksium Elite

Shimano R501 C30

Shimano RS11

Shimano RS330 (probably too expensive at R4400ish)

Fulcrum Racing Sport

Fulcrum Racing 7 LG

Campagnolo Khamsin

 

But I keep on getting conflicting advice and reading conflicting reviews... Any guidance? Are these all roughly similar? Is there a stand out amongst those? Any other options I've missed? Is rebuilding worth reconsidering?

 

I'm currently leaning towards the Shimano RS11 at R3000 as that is what my LBS is offering me and all other things being equal I'd prefer to support them.

 

Any advice would be appreciated as I'm probably now over thinking it and have got myself thoroughly confused!

 

Thanks!

 

Typically spokes break due to metal fatigue - this can be from age, improper (too low) spoke tension or from crash damage.

Once you have more than one episode of breakage it's time to rebuild the wheel with new spokes.

 

As Dave has said - spend R1000 to rebuild the wheel or R2000 - 3000 to rebuild with a new rim.

 

In my opinion most rims are pretty weak - the structural integrity lies in the spokes and the quality of the build.