Worn stantions fox float 29" evolution front shocks

[soconnor]

Hi Hubbers I have a badly worn left stantion and am thinking about using a fibre glass resin to fill up the worn section need advice please

[King_Crispy]

Throw it away. Buy a new one

[Thomo]

I've seen many suggestions to fix, but yet to see one that works except for the one that Crispy suggested.

[BaGearA]

there many ways to "fix" it but they all just prolong the life of the fork and don't actually fix something.

 

 

Have a look at instructables 

 

If it already feels rough to the touch ride it till the seals are gone and then get a new one 

 

sorry man

[soconnor]

there many ways to "fix" it but they all just prolong the life of the fork and don't actually fix something.

 

 

Have a look at instructables 

 

If it already feels rough to the touch ride it till the seals are gone and then get a new one 

 

sorry man

Thanks for nothing guys not what I was hoping to hear but I think you are right about replacing them at some stage, but before I do that I will give the resin option a try. The worn area is smooth with no rough spots I went as far as speaking to a panel beater who suggested I use something like  liquid filler which can be bought at a automotive paint shop,I will let you know how it works out 

[Kom]

Try go kashima if you do decide on replacing the stanchions. Seems like this is a common issues on the fox float, a mate had his done, cost R4500. My Reba has never had any issues, three years old now.

[Rocket-Boy]

The general consensus will be that if it isnt leaking oil then ride it until it breaks.

I have the same fork, its not great, sure it works fine but its probably a blessing in disguise that it will need to be changed.

[Alastair_S1D]

How do you know if the Stanchions are worn? I ride a 2013 FOX Float F32 Evo CTD on my Merida. Done thousands of kilo's on it. And noticed after the Trailseeker 2 yesterday that the left stanchion was weeping a bit at the seal. Worn out seal? Or worn out stanchion?

[David Marshall]

By the time the wear is visible it is too late.  The damage below the seal is usually worse than that visible above the seal. If the oil leaks along the wear marks new stanchions at R3000+ are the only real answer.  No amount of epoxy or resin body filler will hold there for any length of time.

[droo]

The right way of doing it is to replace the stanchion. Current prices all in are around R 6.5k because the air spring now needs to be replaced as well.

 

Any other method is just putting lipstick on a pig. The anodising on the alu stanchion is one of the hardest materials there is - if you can wear through that then epoxy is going to last about a week.

 

The good news is that you're unlikely to cause any further damage to the fork unless you do something really dumb, so knock yourself out.

[droo]

How do you know if the Stanchions are worn? I ride a 2013 FOX Float F32 Evo CTD on my Merida. Done thousands of kilo's on it. And noticed after the Trailseeker 2 yesterday that the left stanchion was weeping a bit at the seal. Worn out seal? Or worn out stanchion?

 

A 2013 Fox that's never been serviced is most likely toast. These things are meant to be serviced every 100 hours.

[droo]

Try go kashima if you do decide on replacing the stanchions. Seems like this is a common issues on the fox float, a mate had his done, cost R4500. My Reba has never had any issues, three years old now.

 

You're on borrowed time... I'd suggest getting it serviced ASAP.

 

That said, RS stanchions are far more durable than Fox.

[Rich Stan]

Can anyone recommend a good place in JHB to get my fork serviced? Also have a Fox Float Evolution.

[Max Headroom]

Doing the service on the fork is VERY easy and cheap to do yourself. Google instructions for your model.

 

In so far as worn stanchions - you can buy the stanchion-crown-head-assembly, sleeves/bushings and do the replacement yourself for about R3k (make your own tools for pulling/pushing replacement bushings (or the LBS can do for you in 15minutes - unfortunately only the more serious workshops have the right tool).

 

However, the fork will not drastically fail or anything serious to worry about (unless you have worn out a 2 or 3mm hole in the side to weaken the side wall - which is just about impossible.

 

If its a open bath system, you will lose your lockout ability if the oil is too dirty/contaminated/thick or all gone - but you are not going to hospital unexpectedly just because the stanchions are worn.

 

Now, of course if you like to keep your 60+ grand bike in tip top condition - replace stanchions.

 

Consider the value of your bike, the risk involved, vs R6k repair bill.

No need to rush to spend the bucks - BUT YOU MUST clean, service and re-oil to reduce wear as much as possible.  Only if the wear is so bad that the oil consistently comes out past the top rubber seal, i.e. there is a gap or play - will the gap be too great and let in too much dust and grunge.

 

Do the basic easy REGULAR service yourself - Open, clean, replace shock oil, make sure foam rings are clean and then oil saturated - and ride ride ride - and save yourself the bucks for a later date.

But keep the stanchions as clean as possible because the "reduced seal" because of the worn uneven stanchion, lets more and more dust works its way into the oil which will mean more and more regular service.

 

Your LBS and any mechanic who sees the wear, will tell you that you must replace or it will fail blah blah - money racket.

No big rush - yes it looks bad, yes it will start creating a grey dust paste, but the fact that it is worn is not a show stopper.  You might want to upgrade the fork in future or even sell the bike - so think twice before sending it in for a service that sets you back 6-7 grand - and seriously consider how easily you can do it yourself in an afternoon. 

[Max Headroom]

Doing the service on the fork is VERY easy and cheap to do yourself. Google instructions for your model.

 

In so far as worn stanchions - you can buy the stanchion-crown-head-assembly, sleeves/bushings and do the replacement yourself for about R3k (make your own tools for pulling/pushing replacement bushings (or the LBS can do for you in 15minutes - unfortunately only the more serious workshops have the right tool).

 

However, the fork will not drastically fail or anything serious to worry about (unless you have worn out a 2 or 3mm hole in the side to weaken the side wall - which is just about impossible.

 

If its a open bath system, you will lose your lockout ability if the oil is too dirty/contaminated/thick or all gone - but you are not going to hospital unexpectedly just because the stanchions are worn.

 

Now, of course if you like to keep your 60+ grand bike in tip top condition - replace stanchions.

 

Consider the value of your bike, the risk involved, vs R6k repair bill.

No need to rush to spend the bucks - BUT YOU MUST clean, service and re-oil to reduce wear as much as possible.  Only if the wear is so bad that the oil consistently comes out past the top rubber seal, i.e. there is a gap or play - will the gap be too great and let in too much dust and grunge.

 

Do the basic easy REGULAR service yourself - Open, clean, replace shock oil, make sure foam rings are clean and then oil saturated - and ride ride ride - and save yourself the bucks for a later date.

But keep the stanchions as clean as possible because the "reduced seal" because of the worn uneven stanchion, lets more and more dust works its way into the oil which will mean more and more regular service.

 

Your LBS and any mechanic who sees the wear, will tell you that you must replace or it will fail blah blah - money racket.

No big rush - yes it looks bad, yes it will start creating a grey dust paste, but the fact that it is worn is not a show stopper.  You might want to upgrade the fork in future or even sell the bike - so think twice before sending it in for a service that sets you back 6-7 grand - and seriously consider how easily you can do it yourself in an afternoon. 

 

Oh, and regarding the OP question on resin etc to fill the stanchion damage - Let us know what you used and how long it lasted.

 

The damage on the stanchion is caused at the aluminum bushing in top of the lower assemble - so if you going to try a sealer on the stanchion repair, perhaps you want to first pull out that bushing, turn it 180 degree and refit, so that you dont have the worst worn edge rubbing on your new  body-filler resin etc.

 

But like the guys above said - I also think its unlikely that you can create a hard enough new surface with resin or whatever to repair the stanchion.  If your garage buddy can pull the one stanchion out of the crown assemble - turn it 180 and refit, that might be a better option - but eish, that is also not so easy.

[Alastair_S1D]

A 2013 Fox that's never been serviced is most likely toast. These things are meant to be serviced every 100 hours.

Oh I keep my fork clean and a I have it regularly serviced too.  I was just wondering if there is any sort of way to tell.  There is no Visible wear on the stantions of my fork.