droo Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 Whoever said you an take the preload cap out after tightening is talking through their noughthole. Once you've done up the pinch bolts there's no way you're moving it. That little pin is a last ditch safety backup and does nothing if the pinch bolts are properly tightened - don't worry about it. Try with a new preload cap, but my feeling is that the spline is now most likely worn from when the crank has fallen off, so you're probably in for a new crankset...
JXV Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 You should have an o ring, the little plate with a pin, two bolts with washers, the plastic pre-tensioner cap and the crank arm. Download the exploded view (EV) diagram from si.shimano.com It will show all the bits. Procedure:1. Slide crank arm onto shaft with clamp bolts loose and pin plate pivoted up out of the way.2. Pivot the pin/plate into the clamp slot, locating the pin in the small hole on crankshaft.3. Hand tighten the pre-tension cap using the correct Shimano tool listed on the EV diagram. The required torque is very low and hand tightening is sufficient. You are basically just taking up slack.4. Tighten the clamp bolts alternately in small imcrements to recommended torque (12 to 14 Nm iirc) and do not overtighten these. If you overtighten the pre-tensioner cap the head will split off from the threaded part and fall out. The crank will gradually work loose....BTDT. Buy (or borrow)the plastic Shimano tool for fitting the cap when you buy your new cap.
Headshot Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 Whoever said you an take the preload cap out after tightening is talking through their noughthole. Once you've done up the pinch bolts there's no way you're moving it. That little pin is a last ditch safety backup and does nothing if the pinch bolts are properly tightened - don't worry about it. Try with a new preload cap, but my feeling is that the spline is now most likely worn from when the crank has fallen off, so you're probably in for a new crankset...Ya its a no brainer. Just look at every new bike in the bike shop - they all have the pre-load cap installed and as you say its impossible to remove once the bolts are tightened. You still need to be careful though. A few weeks ago I had the crank off to service the lower pivots and was distracted while reassembling - I forgot to tighten the bolts. Half way through the ride off a small drop, the left crank spun on the axle and stayed put parallel to the right crank.. I had to be rescued by my wife as I'd left my tools at home too. A double no-no! All seems fine now though, so these things can take some abuse.
brucem76 Posted August 8, 2016 Author Posted August 8, 2016 Confirmed - got a new crank bolt and installed - pedal crank staying on again. Phew! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Odinson Posted February 20, 2017 Posted February 20, 2017 Didn't want to start a new thread just for one question. Does anyone know whether you can by a SRAM GX non-drive side (left) crank arm separately? I think I bent mine, but don't want to buy a whole new crankset just because of it.
droo Posted February 20, 2017 Posted February 20, 2017 Deleted cos didn't read the whole thread. Poephol.
carbon29er Posted February 20, 2017 Posted February 20, 2017 Didn't want to start a new thread just for one question. Does anyone know whether you can by a SRAM GX non-drive side (left) crank arm separately? I think I bent mine, but don't want to buy a whole new crankset just because of it.All other cranks are available to purchase left side only, but not the newest stuff like GX and Eagle.
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