Another Broken Axle

[Reghardt van Rensburg]

I was last posting to find out the cause of why my wheel pulls to the left under load. And as it turned out the axle was completely broken off on the far side where the cones thread over.

 

And now today again - after climbing up a hill - my rear wheel again slams into the frame. So this is yet again another broken axle.

 

So I guess it cant be that the axles are weak. Since the cones and axle was replaced.

 

I fear that it might be that the frame is manufactured scew, and this causes the axles to break clean off. Or perhaps its not, is not a stronger axle perhaps, I'm thinking surely I can put on an expensive branded hub/axle/QR on my bicycle, since the pro's can put out way higher Watts than me uphill and I've never of snapping from them.

 

It's just weird, Strava showe I do max 200Watts and to think that can break off steel. Clearly something ain't right.

 

I did see some play on the wheel when the shop last replaced the axle, but I've left it, because booking it in anywhere around here takes the service department at least a week.

 

Oo

[Matchstix]

Do you have some images where it snapped.

[Reghardt van Rensburg]

I actually this time just feel like taking directly to the shop wheel attached to bike 'n all.

 

I have this suspicion that they will say it's due to jumping etc.

 

Also at this stage I feel like selling this bike and saving for something more expensive instead.

[Reghardt van Rensburg]

I actually this time just feel like taking directly to the shop wheel attached to bike 'n all.

 

I have this suspicion that they will say it's due to jumping etc.

 

Also at this stage I feel like selling this bike and saving for something more expensive instead.

[JXV]

Went through your previous thread and have some queries now that the same failure has recurred.

Forgive me - rider weight?

What brand hub/axle?

What bike?

Which side is the axle breaking; drive side or non-drive?

If you can post some pics of the axle/dropout area of frame with wheel in place and also the broken bits that might help.

Where are you riding it, how fast, any jumps or drops that the average rider wouldn't do?

 

Maybe also fill out some profile info....help us to help you....

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Yusran]

I read through the other thread a while ago, and very briefly at that.

 

However, if this was my bike I would, at the cost of a couple of grams, fabricate an overspecced stainless steel axle. Make an axle with a thicker wall thickness, and something that is not aluminum and you should be good to go. Should be relatively inexpensive to get a machine shop to make you one. Something like the ParagonMachineWorks thru axles, but in stainless steel.

 

To my limited knowledge, most, if not all bicycle thru axles are aluminum (lightweight, easy to manufacture/easy on machinery and tools) and pretty hollow at that. So if the frame is skew/not perfectly aligned, I'm not surprised that the alu axles are being sheared off.

 

My solution to most problems is, "if it breaks, or if there is a possibility of breaking, replace it with something that won't break, ever."

[V12man]

I was last posting to find out the cause of why my wheel pulls to the left under load. And as it turned out the axle was completely broken off on the far side where the cones thread over.

 

And now today again - after climbing up a hill - my rear wheel again slams into the frame. So this is yet again another broken axle.

 

So I guess it cant be that the axles are weak. Since the cones and axle was replaced.

 

I fear that it might be that the frame is manufactured scew, and this causes the axles to break clean off. Or perhaps its not, is not a stronger axle perhaps, I'm thinking surely I can put on an expensive branded hub/axle/QR on my bicycle, since the pro's can put out way higher Watts than me uphill and I've never of snapping from them.

 

It's just weird, Strava showe I do max 200Watts and to think that can break off steel. Clearly something ain't right.

 

I did see some play on the wheel when the shop last replaced the axle, but I've left it, because booking it in anywhere around here takes the service department at least a week.

 

Oo

There should be NO play when the axle is properly installed and correctly tensioned - given you have wheel bearings in good condition and axles etc correctly installed.

 

Find a great mechanic to help identify the cause - where are you based?

[droo]

The play is why it snapped, both times if I recall the last thread correctly.

 

Don't blame the product when it's the installer that got it wrong.

[Meezo]

Off topic, Droo you have any RS or aftermarket RS type 15mm TA's laying around?

[Reghardt van Rensburg]

My info (and will update this on my profile)

Weight: 88Kg

Bike: TITAN Peak 2017 (bought it new)

 

Got it back from CWC today at Tygervalley (Cape Town)

 

Took it for a test ride after they've replaced the axle again, and immediately the play got worse as I rode. I pedal uphill, and can feel the rear wheel swaying.

 

The wheel doesn't move when I wiggle it stationary, but I put some mild load on it and it pulls to the left.

 

My girlfriend also has a TITAN, and that one feels alot stiffer than mine, but I fear if I torgue too hard it might also loosen.

 

CWC's tech said these TITAN's are not meant for heavy riding and that can fit me with a SHIMANO hub/axle and 29'er rim plus upgrade the castte. But that will come at a cost - and advised me that I'll be overspending. Since this is a R5800 bicycle. The updrade wil cost approx R2200 (I'm sceptical about it solving my problem)

 

This seems ludicrous in my opinion since I've rode a R900 avalance in my 20's way harder for years on end, on the same equipment for over 6 years.

 

Tomorrow I have to decide to upgrade it, or just not ride anymore. I can only get the bike I want another 2 years from now when the budget allows.

 

It'll be a GIANT XTC 29'er - I honestly thought this TITAN would have at least be something I could get fit on for 2 years untill then.

 

I'm so dissatisfied with this product. Feels like I'm going to be sitting on my ass for 2 years - and selling this junk on Gumtree to recover this upgrade cost of R2k

[V12man]

My info (and will update this on my profile)

Weight: 88Kg

Bike: TITAN Peak 2017 (bought it new)

 

Got it back from CWC today at Tygervalley (Cape Town)

 

Took it for a test ride after they've replaced the axle again, and immediately the play got worse as I rode. I pedal uphill, and can feel the rear wheel swaying.

 

The wheel doesn't move when I wiggle it stationary, but I put some mild load on it and it pulls to the left.

 

My girlfriend also has a TITAN, and that one feels alot stiffer than mine, but I fear if I torgue too hard it might also loosen.

 

CWC's tech said these TITAN's are not meant for heavy riding and that can fit me with a SHIMANO hub/axle and 29'er rim plus upgrade the castte. But that will come at a cost - and advised me that I'll be overspending. Since this is a R5800 bicycle. The updrade wil cost approx R2200 (I'm sceptical about it solving my problem)

 

This seems ludicrous in my opinion since I've rode a R900 avalance in my 20's way harder for years on end, on the same equipment for over 6 years.

 

Tomorrow I have to decide to upgrade it, or just not ride anymore. I can only get the bike I want another 2 years from now when the budget allows.

 

It'll be a GIANT XTC 29'er - I honestly thought this TITAN would have at least be something I could get fit on for 2 years untill then.

 

I'm so dissatisfied with this product. Feels like I'm going to be sitting on my ass for 2 years - and selling this junk on Gumtree to recover this upgrade cost of R2k

Contact the agent and get them to sort it as a warranty claim

[bikebloke]

what V12 said mate straight back to agents

 

get them to explain in writing the difference between

"heavy riding"  and "light riding" and tell them we all want to hear it (I totally do  )

 

they need to sort your bike under warranty  http://www.titanracingbikes.com/contact/

[Reghardt van Rensburg]

Here is a video to show what it's doing. In sitting on the bike holding both brakes and pedaling with the left leg - the crack is parallel with the floor, and i'm in a seated position:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDkerIgqnBk&feature=youtu.be

TITAN is coming to pick up the bike from me, after I gave them a mail. Thank you "bikebloke" I went to that link and mailed them.

[V12man]

Here is a video to show what it's doing. In sitting on the bike holding both brakes and pedaling with the left leg - the crack is parallel with the floor, and i'm in a seated position:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDkerIgqnBk&feature=youtu.be

 

TITAN is coming to pick up the bike from me, after I gave them a mail. Thank you "bikebloke" I went to that link and mailed them.

Looks like bearing movement to me - might be an optical illusion, but I suspect that hub has an issue

[Reghardt van Rensburg]

Looks like bearing movement to me - might be an optical illusion, but I suspect that hub has an issue

I can assure you it's not a optical illusion - when I get out of the saddle that wheel rubs the frame. And I'm not even giving that much power. 

[V12man]

I can assure you it's not a optical illusion - when I get out of the saddle that wheel rubs the frame. And I'm not even giving that much power. 

The movement is very obvious - I am not disputing that at all - more speculating about the source of the movement - the end cap does not seem to be moving against the frame, its almost like there is movement elsewhere - although you only show one side in the clip.

 

Hopefully the supplier will sort it - or replace it.