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Maxxis Ardent?


PedalGoat

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Posted

Hi All,

 

So i purchased 2 x Maxxis Ardent Race from black Friday CWC sale and they instead sent me the normal Ardents 2.2. They unfortunately dont have the Race's. My question is do i keep these or do i change them for Vittarios? Rear or front  recommendations?

 

Thanks

 

Posted

Which tyres did you have before that had "drag"?

 

Use one on the front and get an Ikon or crossmark for the rear.

 

I just got 2 in from the same sale and swapped the Forekaster my wife had on the front for the Ardent. Definitely rolls better but I am almost certain it won't have the corner grip the Forekaster has  ^_^

Posted

Barzo front saguaro rear. I ride normal ardent 2.2 front and rear but in nam we have a lot of sand and lime stone so the added volume and protection is a must

Posted

Which tyres did you have before that had "drag"?

 

Use one on the front and get an Ikon or crossmark for the rear.

 

I just got 2 in from the same sale and swapped the Forekaster my wife had on the front for the Ardent. Definitely rolls better but I am almost certain it won't have the corner grip the Forekaster has  ^_^

Had the Mount Graham, which is good on grip but doesnt roll well. I then bought Schwalbes of which one of them will not seat. Actually fed up of buying tyres at this time. Dont want to make the wrong choice again. 

Posted

I'm running ardent race front 2.25 and ardent 2.4 rear.

The tread pattern is the same layout but closer together on the race.

Never had any ***.

They seem to roll fine and clear mud easily.

 

1.7 bar front and 1.8 bar rear at 95kg

Posted

The standard Ardent is a brilliant tyre but it is not fast rolling if that's what you're looking for.

 

For the Spruit I would suggest running standard Ardent (front)/Ardent Race (rear) or Vittoria Barzos (front & rear).

Posted

I run Ardent race on the front and Ikon on the rear - brilliant combo.

 

I would keep the Ardents even if they are not the race version.

Posted

The Ardent Race in 2.35" is where it's at. It has tighter spaces knobs than the regular Ardent and you can run slightly lower pressures because of the wider tyre.

Posted

The biggest difference between the normal Ardent and the Ardent race is the sidewall thickness - the race is significantly thinner (and therefore lighter weight) but then won't satnd up to sharp rocks as well as the Ardent.

If you're not a weight weenie then they'll be great.

Posted

I have only heard *** things about the ride feel of the Ardent Race. Keep one Ardent as a front tyre and put an Ikon on the back.

Ikon and ardent race the sidewalls IMO are not sturdy enough. iff you are a weight weenie and not to heavy then yes. but iff you are of CROSSMARK weigh then normal ardent

Posted

Ikon and ardent race the sidewalls IMO are not sturdy enough. iff you are a weight weenie and not to heavy then yes. but iff you are of CROSSMARK weigh then normal ardent

I'm no weight weenie but I really dislike riding the LUST/UST versions of the Crossmark & Ardent. The casing is super think and heavy because it was designed to be run on full UST wheels, with no sealant.

Even with those "sturdy" LUST side walls it is just as easy to cut/pinch flat, right next to the bead.

If the Ardent EXO/TR and the Ikon 3C/EXO/TR are not "sturdy" enough, then put a bit more air in.

Posted

Had the Mount Graham, which is good on grip but doesnt roll well. I then bought Schwalbes of which one of them will not seat. Actually fed up of buying tyres at this time. Dont want to make the wrong choice again. 

 

As long as you get a T/R-EXO or LUST/UST casing they will seat without any hassles with a floor pump...and possible even a hand pump (haven't tried this one yet but with the ease they went on with I would imagine they would ^_^ ).

 

Yesterday I fitted a 2.4 Ardent EXO only (non T/R-tubeless ready) to my front and boy was that a mission! I was not in the mood to get the compressor out so I had to pump like the enemy was creeping me from beafter!

 

After about a full 2 minutes worth of huffing and puffing and continuous pomping I managed to get it to seat. A bit of sealant squished out of the bead area (Which does not happen, well for me anyway, with the T/R-EXO and LUST casings) and then it was fine and is still holding as I type this.

 

The EXO casing (non-T/R) I have seems to be from pre-tubeless days and was more than likely intended to be used with tubes as the bead has that rough edging that is found on tubed tyres. The T/R and LUST casings have a smoother/stickier/rubbery continuous bead to make it easier to seat and lock into place without any leaks.

 

In most cases the T/R-EXO casings are lighter than the LUST/UST casings but this also depends on the tread pattern design and how the nobblies are sized and spaced.  

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