Chains - what to buy?

[brucem76]

As a heavy rider (120kg) I am sure I stress my chain more than most - looking to buy a new one, but don't really see any specs - are some chains stronger than others, are some lighter etc? What actually differs from a deore to XT to xtr to kmc 10-speed chain? Prices vary quite significantly, so I assume there is a significant difference

 

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[Psyrax]

I dont think your weight plays a big role on the chain. How you ride and how you pedal does. If you pedal smooth your chain will last longer and the chance of a broken chain is slim - except if its a bad chain. Pedal hard all the time and you propably will brake a chain. And in extreme cases you can brake your cassette.

 

Regarding the quality of chains - even the best most expensive chain could be weaker than a cheap one. I think sticking to any of the well known brands will be good enough. And most important keep your chain clean.

 

As a fact I weigh more than you and I have never broken a chain. Friend of mine half my weight pedals hard and breaks them more than you should.

[BaGearA]

NOT KMC

[Pete the Pirate]

I generally ride top of the range components (XTR) and simply have always ridden the cheapest chains I can lay my hands on.

 

Chains are a disposable item, not a grudge purchase. Keep them clean, keep theme lubed and treat them with love and respect. I am a big strong fella and have never broken a chain. In my opinion, taking the slightest tension off the pedals when changing up and down the cassette results in smooth slick changes, try not to "grind" your gear changes. This then minimises the stress on the chain.

 

For love or money I cannot tell you how long I ride a chain. I keep a Park Tools chain checking tool on my bike wash stand and check the chain after every 2nd or 3rd ride. When it clocks in at 0.75% wear, I chuck the chain.

 

On my one bike that has done plenty mileage, I am onto my 8th chain and my changes are a slick as ever, no jumping, no chain suck. My good mate who has done similar mileage but is not a "chain checker", has already spent over 5k on two sets of chairings and cassettes in the same time period, my chain spend has been less than 2k.

 

Maybe an expensive chain "rides" better. I am no Nino Schurter so I probably wouldn't know the difference .

 

Safe and happy cycling

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR

[Kalahari Vegmot]

NOT KMC

What's wrong with KMC?

 

Cheap chains and work a treat IMO

[Long Wheel Base]

NOT KMC

What do you have against KMC?

My race road bike and race mtb both have KMC and I have used them in my race machines for a long time.

 

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[Long Wheel Base]

What's wrong with KMC?

 

Cheap chains and work a treat IMO

Also use KMC on my race bikes(shimano on my training bikes). But they not all cheap. My X11SL gold wasn't what I would call cheap.

 

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[Long Wheel Base]

As a heavy rider (120kg) I am sure I stress my chain more than most - looking to buy a new one, but don't really see any specs - are some chains stronger than others, are some lighter etc? What actually differs from a deore to XT to xtr to kmc 10-speed chain? Prices vary quite significantly, so I assume there is a significant difference

 

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So on my single bikes(road and mtb) I am using KMC and shimano and have never had issues. I used to use an ultegra chain on my race tandem and it just never lasted. I decided to try sram. Bought the sram chain that is on the same sort of level as ultegra(there are 2 options. The one is lighter and has hollow pins.) and tbh I can't tell a difference in shifting and it is definitely a lot stronger. I have used both the lighter and heavier one and both last well. On a tandem the chain takes a serious punishing so although I don't ride sram anything else on any of my bikes their chains are decent for the tandem.

 

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[Kalahari Vegmot]

Also use KMC on my race bikes(shimano on my training bikes). But they not all cheap. My X11SL gold wasn't what I would call cheap.Sent from my LG-H735 using Tapatalk

Have to agree, but if you go for the x11.93, it will only cost 21 $ from Wiggle. I usually order a bunch of stuff from Wiggle, so shipping doesn't affect price much.

 

Also, I don't really care about a few extra grams on the chain

[BaGearA]

Maybe its bad luck but I have had 5 KMC chains in my life time and all of them have snapped before 500km was put on them

 

I am by no means A power house I weigh 61kg and my highest ever 5sec power was 1240w

 

So its not me and NO I don't cross chain nor do I shift under power 

 

Shimano SLX chains have served me well and I will not change soon.

[bikebloke]

I use kmc and ive got really good mileage from them

that said ive used shimano xt and got good mileage too

 

they are pretty much the same

 

on the road you should only use campy

[brucem76]

Thanks - helpful - seems there's not much in chain choice...

 

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[Thomo]

Chain brands - largely luck and personal preference.

Chain models - largely weight difference brought about by hollow pins and the like.

Many world tour teams have shown that it makes greater sense to use

2nd tier chains and cassettes e.g. Ultegra rather than Dura Ace.

[arendoog]

I always use XT and up for components,but the smoothest shifting was from a SLX cassette and kmc chain .My singled speed uses a bmx chain .I am more of a torque than a cadence rider so chains don,t last long .Rather use to many new chains than having to replace a cassette and sprocket

[EmptyB]

I generally ride top of the range components (XTR) and simply have always ridden the cheapest chains I can lay my hands on.

 

Chains are a disposable item, not a grudge purchase. Keep them clean, keep theme lubed and treat them with love and respect. I am a big strong fella and have never broken a chain. In my opinion, taking the slightest tension off the pedals when changing up and down the cassette results in smooth slick changes, try not to "grind" your gear changes. This then minimises the stress on the chain.

 

For love or money I cannot tell you how long I ride a chain. I keep a Park Tools chain checking tool on my bike wash stand and check the chain after every 2nd or 3rd ride. When it clocks in at 0.75% wear, I chuck the chain.

 

On my one bike that has done plenty mileage, I am onto my 8th chain and my changes are a slick as ever, no jumping, no chain suck. My good mate who has done similar mileage but is not a "chain checker", has already spent over 5k on two sets of chairings and cassettes in the same time period, my chain spend has been less than 2k.

 

Maybe an expensive chain "rides" better. I am no Nino Schurter so I probably wouldn't know the difference .

 

Safe and happy cycling

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR

Well said....and I have always found the cheaper chains last just as long, usually longer than the fancy expensive jobs!!

 

Look after the chain and toss it as soon as it's sufficiently worn.

[Long Wheel Base]

http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/products/Chains

 

Get one of these [emoji106] .

Di Data and the late tinkoff use them. Remember when Steve Cummings solo'd to victory at the tdf? The commentators kept bragging about this fancy chain they use.

 

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