Saudiq Posted January 24, 2017 Posted January 24, 2017 I'd do hill intervals where you keep cadence at 55-60 to build muscular endurance and then in races climb at 70-80 cadence
Weimaraner1 Posted January 24, 2017 Posted January 24, 2017 Will i need to change the chain as i will have 3 more teeth?Always good the check your chain length if you change sprockets or chain rings. Check out the methods online. Also not a bad idea to get a new chain if you are getting a new cassette and your chain is getting to the worn side. Invest in a chain checker then you can periodically check it yourself. A normal 116 links chain will be fine and you can size it using the methods described online. I think Dave Marshall as always wrote an excellent reply with good advice. I use to run a 50/34 with 11/23. Descents behind tandems prove to be a real problem. I changed to 52/36 and 11/23 or 11/28 depending on the ride and I have no complaints.
alleyne Posted January 24, 2017 Posted January 24, 2017 I changed a couple of years ago to a 12-28 as I started to ride more, it was one of the best changes I made. After a year of solid-ish riding I went back to a 11/12-25 when my legs were ready.
Spinnekop Posted January 24, 2017 Posted January 24, 2017 I watch quite a lot of GCN and they reckon the trend in the pro ranks towards easier gearing is to do with the pro's running at higher cadence. Hence the easier gearing.The higher cadence is to keep up with the internal motor.
Spinnekop Posted January 24, 2017 Posted January 24, 2017 checked the TDU profile, or comments on the route profiles, and only certain sections have those crazy gradients, not for kilometers and hours on end as you seem to suggest? Even the interviews with the riders suggest the routes or stages are relatively flat. Their words. Is there not perhaps some physiological benefits (other than the more direct benefit of easier climbing), like on-bike recovery, that is better effected by the 11-28 than a cassette with tighter ratios, notably over the longer stage distances?Agreed. I think the bigger thing is jumps between gears. I don't have the figures in front of me (maybe an engineer is willing to jump in here) but an 11-23 will have say 1 tooth jump in between shifts whereas your 11-28 are going to have a gear or two where you jump 2 or more teeth per shift. Maybe the 28 has a benefit of you using your, lets say, 25 and 26 "more" than where you would where 25 is your max......if that makes sense. So take average cadence over avg terrain and maybe the 28 will be more "average" fit in order to keep cadence high...... I have not had the privilege of riding a 28. I know on the e-tap 28 is the limit wher,e should you want to go 32, you'll have to get a longer derailleur cage. So pretty much stretching the derailleur on the 28 ratio.Good or bad long term in terms of durability of the derailleur? Who knows for sure.......
Baracuda Posted January 25, 2017 Posted January 25, 2017 Just make sure that your back derailleur has the capacity for the larger cassette.I attempted the same with a 9-speed bike a few months ago, but then ran into an issue as I have a short-cage derailleur on the bike and not a medium or long.
Fat Boab Posted January 25, 2017 Posted January 25, 2017 ? Public service announcement.......Post #16 - bottom of page 1...... Posted 23 January 2017 - 09:35 Marco Crow, on 23 Jan 2017 - 8:52 PM, said:Hi sepia yep will be interested??I have a 28 and a 30 available. Choose your poison.Chain length - maybe, depending on your current length? More than likely? I kept my chain length.I think the 30 goes down to a 12 and not 11T. (Have not checked)What derailleur do you have? I ask this because the B screw may/might have to be changed?Edited by Sepia, 23 January 2017 - 09:38
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