Baracuda

As noted, the lack of a clutch derailleur on the 105 can be decisive. I would not be overly worried about the weight of a gravel bike, as long as it is not too heavy (over 10kgs). I used to faff about the weight of mine, but then on every decent 4-5 hour ride one adds 2-3 water bottles, food, and half a kilo of tools, tubes, bombs etc, Once it is in "camel mode", that extra you spent on a light weight handlebar or seat post, seems ridiculous.

I just ignore them.

Not sure of the prices but don't completely discount the Pyga 110, especially if it comes with decent parts and suspension. After all of these nasty comments, just a note that I have ridden one for 10 years, everything from Berg 'n Bush to Western Cape Enduros (with a 140mm fork), at times weighing close on 100kgs and it is fine. I was in Morzine (French Alps) last year for a week with a group of South Africans and while most of us rented DH bikes, two of the youngsters were on Pyga 110s, flying off 6-8 foot drops the whole week, hammering down all the DH routes, without any issues. The bike is old, the head angle is a little steep by modern standards, but if you can pick up one with good components, (not the awful SRAM SX on some other bikes suggested above), it may be worth it.

There is suddenly a substantial number listed in the second hand section, but many of the expensive ones (>50k) have not moved in months. I can only see it becoming more popular. Apparently in the States they are largely replacing road bikes. Unless you are road racing, they are far more capable and comfortable, even on tar.

It really depends on the nature of the gravel you are intending to ride. I have found that one needs to be brutally honest with oneself. If it is Gucci Gravel - decent gravel roads and even jeep track, without rocks and heavy corrugations, then a gravel bike with 40-45cc tires is great. Also great if your ride is mixed tarmac and decent gravel roads. Think about getting a Red Shift shock absorbing stem, it helps alot. If it is rocky (bigger than 20mm stones/rocks), corrugations or lots of mud, then an MTB with 55mm (2.1, 2,2 inch) tires and front fork is better.

One does need to be careful through the whole process. Reminds me of advice I received a few years ago on a ride - "1st Rule of Mountain Biking: Never look into another man's eyes while eating a banana"

It is something that I just stumbled on, apparently it is a big thing in the States on 100mile gravel rides. Just need to get my head around riding the first 130km with a gerkin in my pocket..

Exactly, the technology in that KTM is nuts, they sell fewer of them, etc etc.

Lots of posts with the general "no one is forcing you to buy it, so stop bitching" and yes, high prices for top end stuff is vaguely understandable, but the issue is the impact on the entry level bikes, which are now >100k. The next forum topic will be on why entries are down in the Argus, why stage races are battling, why the bike market is battling. I believe the Average Joe view it as just too expensive. Most of the guys I used to ride with are now trail running, surfski'ing or something else where you pay <20k for a full set up. When you ask them why, they cite the cost of bikes and services. This is not only in SA but overseas as well. Look at the Pinkbike comments on these bikes, the guys in the States also believe the pricing is plain stupid and unaffordable.

Jeepers, these are the sorts of answers one would expect on a dating website to the question "how much do you weigh?", not on a cycling forum I just wanna know the weight of the bike, not that I should ignore weight and rather focus on feel and wear knee pads during proceedings...

Looks great but how much does that puppy weigh?

I have been asking the same question and found way too much advice online. From my own riding and watching all the clips, it seems like 40-42mm is the sweat spot for Gucci Gravel i.e. reasonable gravel roads without large rocks and corrugations. I am going to try 40mm for the Swartberg Fondo. It seems like once conditions get rougher and you move to 50mm, you should be on a bike with some suspension and then one is on a slippery slope to just riding your mountain bike.

Looks like canned salmon to me. Somewhere between papaya and salmon.

Can one actually ride that road? I have been told that large sections are closed to the public?

I find it works really well. Not full suspension, but a huge difference on gravel roads in terms of comfort and traction. When I first bought mine, I was a bit underwhelmed, it seemed to increase the comfort a little on my usual ride down to Cape Point on tar, not really noticeable, but what I really noticed was how spongy it feels when you stand up on the pedals. Then a few weeks later I was in the Karoo for a weekend and went gunning down one of those rough'ish gravel roads at full pace and suddenly it all made sense. More comfort, less bounce and more control and traction. The faster you go over the rough stuff, the more noticeable it is.

I faced a similar dilemma when building my gravel bike a few years ago: looking for gearing that suits both gravel and road - the ability to get my 90kgs up the Swartberg pass as well as stay with the roadies on the Argus loop on Sunday mornings, without needing to cash-in the pension to purchase a 10-52 cassette. Spent hours searching and looking that gearing comparison webpages. Decided on 2x and initially went for: 36/52 on the front and a 11-34 cassette. I battled on some really steep climbs in the mountains and when I accidentally trashed the large chain ring, I changed to 50/32 and a 11-34 cassette. With that combination, I can get up any gravel / jeep track as well as stay with the roadies on Sundays. Not lead them, but you can stay with a pelaton or train of guys. I bought mine as GRX was coming out and the Ultegra was on a super special, especially the Ultegra RX derailleur (with a clutch which you have to have for gravel). After looking at costs vs weight vs robustness, I bought: Ultegra disk brakes Ultegra 11 speed RX derailleur, 11-34 casette and chain - the 11 speed ultegra chain is the same as an XT mtb chain. I haven't had the best experience mixing non-shimano chains and cassettes, they work but seem to be rough. The full ultegra combo is silky smooth. 105 crank set with 50/32. The Ultegra crankset cost significantly more for a minimal weight benefit and I see they have since had a recall on them. The 105 crank and chainrings are good and strong. I bought it all from Merlin. If you patient and keep an eye on their specials, one can get a bargain, but also look at the SA online stores, they are also providing good deals. I assume one would need to get a GRX derailleur instead of the RX and just check for ultegra / rx compatibility. I don't think it will be an issue, but worth checking.

Perhaps have a look at www.lekkerslaap.co.za for accommodation as well. It often has farm and country town stays that are not listed on Airbnb or Booking.com It's maps are not great, but it often has amazing little farm cottages.

Just teasing, but a few year ago I saw a clip with a guy who ran Comrades in jeans and it was just to win a bet with his mates at the pub. Madness. I really take my hat off to you.

If it reached 30k, would you do it in jeans as well?

If you not going to go for the fancy carbon wheels, I bought a pair of these from Merlin 3 years ago and they are bomb proof. One can ride road, rock gravel, even ride into a road-works hole by mistake on dark winter's morning at full pace and they are fine. I primarily MTB and are therefore continually jumping up and down pavements and at 92 kgs + bike, have not had an issue: https://www.merlincycles.com/fulcrum-rapid-red-500-db-2wf-gravel-wheelset-700c-225950.html

The measurements at a Specialized shop can take a lot of time. A far more reliable estimate can be obtained by taking a selfie of your bottom and posting it here on the hub. We can provide you with good, consistent, clear advice, especially if you post it early on a Friday morning.

So should one be on a gravel bike or MTB for this race. I thought there were lots of rocky jeep track sections later on that are "tricky" on a dropbar bike?

From Montagu you could also go further north and through the Anysberg Nature Reserve. https://makadasadventures.co.za/klein-karoo-gravel-corridor/ Then take this gravel road north of the mountains across to Prince Bertie. There are a few Lekkerslaap places near the Laingsburg end. I have been looking at routes north of the N1 from CT to Prince Bertie - either far north via Ceres, Sutherland and Merweville, or Ceres to Matjiesfontein and then the route above.

After trying many, many options over 15 years, from paraffin through to larny options, and having lost some paint etc in the process; I find Namgear Chain Cleaner to be the best. It gets the gunk off you chain, but if some does go onto the rest of your bike and brake disks etc, it does impact them. It is also relatively inexpensive if you buy the 5lt refill. I have used that Shield car shampoo on the rest of the bike and it seems fine. i have not noticed any issues with bearings or seals.

Completely agree. Gravel bikes are good on gravel roads, mountain bikes are better on single track mountain trials. I really don't know why folks take gravel bikes on rooty single track and then say a mountain bike could be better. It is like doing a Tour de France stage on a MTB and then noting "these mountain bikes suck, a road bike would have been much better"