Going tubeless on a road bike.

[Thomo]

I assume that your rims need to be specifically tubeless specific - and that there aren't reliable/safe methods to convert conventional rims to a tubeless spec. So the change is a relatively expensive one.

 

Just bought a set of Scirocco 35s which aren't tubeless, so was just wondering...

I've heard of standard conversions, but I think the hook on a tubeless rim is purpose designed.

[Timasin]

I was out riding today and just thought i need to give this tubeless thing a go out of interest with some rim tape and a valve on my Fulcrum racing S's. If it works fantastic if not so be it. From the okes in the know is the tyre choice as essential as it is with the mnt bike tubeless story?

[Mechanick]

Absolutely worth it. Zero punctures in three years.

 

I use Schwalbe Pro One tyres, 25mm. 30ml of Stans in each tyre. Ride anywhere - I had a piece of barbed wire in my tyre once, pulled it out and carried on riding. Could not even find the hole afterwards. 

 

Also, the Pro Ones are faster than clinchers with tubes. 

 

I am really keen to convert. I am running a pair of AC Victory 30s and they're tubless ready, so that should not b e a problem. The questions I have are:

• What tyre pressure are running as I generally ride at 8 to 9 bar on 25mm gatroskins?
• Do you change your wheels when racing?
• Would the newer STans version for MTB not work better as it is supposed to be the next best thing, especially on pro circuit mtb.

[Eon du Plessis]

I've had Pro Ones fitted on my 420 aero 3 wheels. Haven't had an opportunity to try them out, but the weekend is coming!

 

 

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[carbon29er]

It is not recommended by the wheel manufacturers to convert non tubeless rims to tubeless. The bead is slightly different. I have however run tubeless in this setup with carbon rims, just using tape and sealant with proper tubeless tyres and covered close to 8,000 without any issues at all.

 

The reason they give is the tyre may roll off the rim but IMO that is being product liability aware as the tubeless tyre is much tighter on the rim and I found, once sealant added, it was quite an effort to separate the tyre from the rim. Almost the reverse of the pop you get when inflating it.

 

DO NOT use normal clincher tyres. ONLY use tubeless tyres. Sealant is optional but I would not ride without it.

 

The beauty of tubeless is you can can MUCH LOWER pressures, down to 70 psi for most tryes which improves comfort big time. I can 23c 100 psi rear an 90 psi front on my road bike, 25c 110 psi rear and 100 psi front on my tandem.

 

Once fitted the tyres and wheels stay on, the benefits are there for daily and racing use.

 

Edit: manufacturers not manufactures

[Eon du Plessis]

It is not recommended by the wheel manufacturers to convert non tubeless rims to tubeless. The bead is slightly different. I have however run tubeless in this setup with carbon rims, just using tape and sealant with proper tubeless tyres and covered close to 8,000 without any issues at all.

 

The reason they give is the tyre may roll off the rim but IMO that is being product liability aware as the tubeless tyre is much tighter on the rim and I found, once sealant added, it was quite an effort to separate the tyre from the rim. Almost the reverse of the pop you get when inflating it.

 

DO NOT use normal clincher tyres. ONLY use tubeless tyres. Sealant is optional but I would not ride without it.

 

The beauty of tubeless is you can can MUCH LOWER pressures, down to 70 psi for most tryes which improves comfort big time. I can 23c 100 psi rear an 90 psi front on my road bike, 25c 110 psi rear and 100 psi front on my tandem.

 

Once fitted the tyres and wheels stay on, the benefits are there for daily and racing use.

 

Edit: manufacturers not manufactures

How much do you weigh, if you don't mind me asking?

Reason is, I run 90psi with my tubed tires. Think I'll go down to 80-85 with the tubeless.

 

 

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[carbon29er]

75kg. Tandem is me and 65kg.

[openmind]

Non-tubeless road rims will not all work with tubeless tyres at road pressures (much less of an issue with MTB tyres 'cause of the much lower pressures). You run a very real risk of rolling/burping a tyre, most likely when you can afford it the least, like in a high-speed turn.

 

Tubeless rims are made to a specific tubeless spec so that the rim actually holds the tyre under all riding conditions. 

 

With regard to pressure, I run my 25mm tubeless tyres at around 80psi (5 bar). I weigh 80kgs. Very comfortable ride and feels at least as fast as my old 23mm non-tubeless tyres at 100psi.

[the_roadie]

I've been thinking of converting my Token Zenith's to tubeless. Of those running tubeless, do you race with tubeless as well, or only training/commuting?

[TALUS]

I have 3 years of tubeless riding now. One important point: still carry a tube. Sidewall cuts happen. I had to help a guy at SBR on Saturday with my tube.

[venom1]

Start up costs is doesn't come cheap. 

Then again what in cycling is cheap. lol

 

I also plan to go tubeless but will only due this when road racing season starts again. 

Most of my winter training will be done on a Indoor train hence i'm waiting for sunny days.

I got a pair of Easton EA90 SLX which is tubeless certified. 

 

Get a decent mini pump.

CO2 cartridges are not recommended with sealant. 

[venom1]

O yes, Chain Reaction currently has the Schwalbe Pro One on promo. 

Happy shopping!

[carbon29er]

Non-tubeless road rims will not all work with tubeless tyres at road pressures (much less of an issue with MTB tyres 'cause of the much lower pressures). You run a very real risk of rolling/burping a tyre, most likely when you can afford it the least, like in a high-speed turn.

 

Tubeless rims are made to a specific tubeless spec so that the rim actually holds the tyre under all riding conditions. 

 

With regard to pressure, I run my 25mm tubeless tyres at around 80psi (5 bar). I weigh 80kgs. Very comfortable ride and feels at least as fast as my old 23mm non-tubeless tyres at 100psi.

As they don't work please explain the differences between a normal clincher rim and a tubeless clincher rim.

 

And then explain how I managed to ride 8,000km without incident when I fitted my Schwalbe Ultremo tubeless to a normal, non tubeless rim.

[Dexter-morgan]

As they don't work please explain the differences between a normal clincher rim and a tubeless clincher rim.

 

And then explain how I managed to ride 8,000km without incident when I fitted my Schwalbe Ultremo tubeless to a normal, non tubeless rim.

Thanks for this, I will fork out the Randellas then

[igg]

Been running road tubeless for a while: Schwalbe Pro Ones.

 

It's been great... but, I had a puncture that the Stans sealed, but would constantly leak and then seal again (very messy, road pressures spray sealant everywhere). The Stan's was fresh and the cut maybe 3mm long, so I don't know what the deal was. Eventually got sick of this and pulled the tyre off to patch it. No problems since.

[splat]

For the weight weenies, is a tubeless setup heavier ?

(for the sake of this conversation, ignore the wheels)