Tubeless Tape Width for AM Wide Lightning

[Pah Bear]

This happened to me too, interestingly enough also on AM wheels (not Wide L though). In the end the problem was self inflicted. When I put the tire on, I first caused the problem by pinching the tape using levers to get the tire on (replaced tape), then caused the Gorilla tape to move when struggling to get the tire on without having to use levers.and again caused the leak. Both times the leak was at the valve and I was starting to think the valve itself is not in tight enough and nearly killed the valve by over tightening the valve nut. So ... hope this helps. Frustrating but once you logic it out and make sure you do the basics right it must work. 

[Pah Bear]

Oh yes, make sure you slosh the sealant around in the tire (spin, bump, wobble, et al) to make sure the sealant reaches all the areas to seal any possible leak.

[Mongoose!]

Also struggled a while ago with wheels that would not seal. Taped it with three attempts. Still leaked. Switched valves (used ones). No luck.

 

Bought brand new valves, problem solved.

 

When you switched valves, were they new or some old used valves?

 

Try brand new valves. Worked for me.

 

Got Ryder ( R120 for the pair at LBS)

 

Good luck. (Old valves in my case even leaked with new cores...)

[TheJ]

Got it right, I think.

 

As Pah Bear said, with nothing else to point fingers to I think this was also self inflicted, even though I have no idea how. When I took the tyre off now to redo the whole thing again, I noticed the Gorilla tape had a tiny tear in it on the other side of the wheel (half a wheel away from the valve), right at a spoke hole. It almost looks as if the pressure inside the tyre caused the tape to be pushed into the spoke hole enough for a rough piece of rim to cut the tape. A 1mm cut, maybe. So the air was escaping there, traveling half a wheel away and coming out at the valve. Bastard. How many "winds" of Gorilla tape is recommended?

 

I fixed it by giving the rim one layer of old school insulation tape over the rim holes, and then a layer of Gorilla tape over that. Managed to pump it up with a floor pump (non UST tyre), and I can't hear anything at the valve anymore.

 

Holding thumbs when I check it tomorrow morning.

 

Thanks for the tips guys.

[Hairy]

Got it right, I think.

 

As Pah Bear said, with nothing else to point fingers to I think this was also self inflicted, even though I have no idea how. When I took the tyre off now to redo the whole thing again, I noticed the Gorilla tape had a tiny tear in it on the other side of the wheel (half a wheel away from the valve), right at a spoke hole. It almost looks as if the pressure inside the tyre caused the tape to be pushed into the spoke hole enough for a rough piece of rim to cut the tape. A 1mm cut, maybe. So the air was escaping there, traveling half a wheel away and coming out at the valve. Bastard. How many "winds" of Gorilla tape is recommended?

 

I fixed it by giving the rim one layer of old school insulation tape over the rim holes, and then a layer of Gorilla tape over that. Managed to pump it up with a floor pump (non UST tyre), and I can't hear anything at the valve anymore.

 

Holding thumbs when I check it tomorrow morning.

 

Thanks for the tips guys.

was preparing to write and advise you to tape the rim well with insulation tape prior to the gorilla or other rim tapes.

 

glad you are up and running!

[solty]

Have you got the little o-ring under that curved washer, kinda fits inside it?

[Pah Bear]

Also saw a write up advising NOT to cut the hole in the rim tape the normally done X-shape but just prick a hole at the right point and then push the valve through. Normally only one layer of Gorilla tape required with a "decent" overlap (my case: 15-20cm). I do the overlap on the opposite side to the valve hole (reduce thickness at the valve).

[Pah Bear]

Remember to slosh the sealant throughout the whole wheel including the tape and valve area and test that valve with soapy water. Only way to confirm no "slow" leak. That "small" string of bubbles or one every few seconds is a sure sign of "compromised" tape.

 

Not sure if sloshing the sealant over can solve this once caused but ... I do it anyway.

[TheJ]

Yeah after the wheel "pops" I do a rotate/bounce, make sure the sealant gets in everywhere.

 

The wheel is still completely inflated this morning, no pressure loss.

[TheJ]

Have you got the little o-ring under that curved washer, kinda fits inside it?

 

I tried the small o-ring on the inside of the wheel, and out of desperation even on the outside under the curved washer, but even that didn't help.

 

All sorted now.

[BaGearA]

Had problems similar like this in the begining of the year. (problems = almost stopped mountainbiking out of frustration)

 

Cureently jave 3 layers od insulation tape in my wheel and its been going strong since march