Sram Shifter Shenanigans

[Kalahari Vegmot]

I am in need of some help regarding a Sram X9 9sp shifter...

 

It looks like this:

The cable attaches to the black piece of plastic, and the hole next to the bolt is for a spring that moves the splined shifter plate in the opposite direction as the paddle-to downshift.

 

Then, this plastic thingie and shift plate comes off:

 

Leaving us with this:

 

Okay; this peg thingy moves the shifter plate:

 

[see above image]

Now, my problem is that, when the shifter plate sits where it "should"(11T in this position), the teeth are essentially reversed-meaning that, the "derailleur stops" on the cassette and on the shifter plate, are opposites of each other.

 

The cassette's cogs has several bigger jumps for the first few cogs(from the 11T up), and then they even out. This is normal.

 

However, on the shift plate, the first few shifts(from the 11T) are equally spaced, and then they get bigger, meaning the two don't match...

 

Thus, this plate seems like a dud. I am not sure if this is the case though, and would appreciate any help on how to get it working.

 

Perhaps a picture of how one that works, looks? I've disassembled and reassembled this one so many times now, so instructions are available in vivid detail should they be required...

 

Edit: Ignore cassette spacing lies stated as facts above- cassette spacing is equal...

[BaGearA]

So what exactly is the problem ?

 

If it works , it works ...but from your post I can't really make out what the issue is ?

[Psyrax]

Throw away and get Gripshift.

[Nuffy]

I’ve opened mine up and it looks exactly like yours, as far as I can tell. Do you want pictures or anything?

 

I thought maybe you had flipped over the shift plate or something, but it looks like it can only go on one way, and mine looks the same as yours.

 

As BaGearA asks, what’s the problem? Is there something wrong with your shifting? Can you reassemble and cycle through the gears at the shifter with no problems there?

[Kalahari Vegmot]

Sorry, a picture relevant to the last section wasn't added... Will do that now...

[Goodbadugly]

The question is a bit vague. But I will answer what I think the problem is.

Make sure that the shifter is on the absolute last click when you fix the cable onto the rear mech. In some 9 speed shifters it is possible to put it on the second last click and still get 9 clicks from the shifter. But the timing will be out. The plate looks fine to me.

[Kalahari Vegmot]

I’ve opened mine up and it looks exactly like yours, as far as I can tell. Do you want pictures or anything?

 

I thought maybe you had flipped over the shift plate or something, but it looks like it can only go on one way, and mine looks the same as yours.

 

As BaGearA asks, what’s the problem? Is there something wrong with your shifting? Can you reassemble and cycle through the gears at the shifter with no problems there?

I'd like a picture, please?

[Kalahari Vegmot]

Throw away and get Gripshift.

"Don't fix your VW, get a tata"

[Kalahari Vegmot]

So what exactly is the problem ?

 

If it works , it works ...but from your post I can't really make out what the issue is ?

Spacing on the plate and cassette are different. The plate moves anticlockwise; so in the position that it sits in the last picture, represents the 11T. The first several clicks it moves, are evenly spaced, but on a cassette, the first few cogs aren't.

 

The last 2/3 clicks on the plate, should shift the first few cogs from the 11T up, but instead the bigger jump comes at the 7th cog.

 

Jinne I hope this makes sense......?

[Rocket-Boy]

Get the rapide upgrade kit and change it to 11sp?

[JA-Q001]

your casette spacing should be exactly the same throughout, the only manufacturer that changes the casette spacing is Campagnolo (this was on their 9 and early 10 spd models (road)).

 

The bigger shifting gaps is there to accommodate the larger jumps in teeth sizing, as the RD has to move vertically, it changes the leverage angle and thus needs to have a bit more cable pull to accommodate the mechanical movement of the RD.

 

If you are unable to adjust your gears, you are either using a shimano RD or you are clamping the cable incorrectly or you are installing the cable incorrectly in the shifter.

 

I think most people don't know what you are asking, as you don't state what got you to the point of starting to investigate inside your shifter.

[Kalahari Vegmot]

your casette spacing should be exactly the same throughout, the only manufacturer that changes the casette spacing is Campagnolo (this was on their 9 and early 10 spd models (road)).

 

The bigger shifting gaps is there to accommodate the larger jumps in teeth sizing, as the RD has to move vertically, it changes the leverage angle and thus needs to have a bit more cable pull to accommodate the mechanical movement of the RD.

 

If you are unable to adjust your gears, you are either using a shimano RD or you are clamping the cable incorrectly or you are installing the cable incorrectly in the shifter.

 

I think most people don't know what you are asking, as you don't state what got you to the point of starting to investigate inside your shifter.

Ahh, good to know, thanks!

 

What got me investigating the shifter, is that it shifts the first few gears okay-ish, and then near the top of the cassette shifts two cogs at a time.

 

But if I understand you correctly, the plate is 100% and my cable routing to the mech might be the problem?

 

Wouldn't cassette ratio (at least the last few cogs) also have an impact on performance seeing the derailleur would move more vertically with an 11-34 than say an 11-32? Essentially making it compatible only with a specific cassette ratio?

[Skinnyone]

Once you have stripped it that far, put all the pieces in a nice zip lock bag and bin it...it will never be the same again....there was probably nothing wrong with it in the first place.

 

Those shifters typically became "spongy" and that meant the engagement pawls were worn. there could be a number of answers to your vague question - cables clean, cable engaged properly, wear in the derailleur pivots etc...

[JA-Q001]

But if I understand you correctly, the plate is 100% and my cable routing to the mech might be the problem?

 

Wouldn't cassette ratio (at least the last few cogs) also have an impact on performance seeing the derailleur would move more vertically with an 11-34 than say an 11-32? Essentially making it compatible only with a specific cassette ratio?

 

Basically, yes.

 

They design the RD and shifter together with a "optimal" cassette that they recon will sell the most. This will normally be a 11-36 for 10spd mtbs, or 11-32 for 9spd mtbs. But, they do design  it to accommodate other cassettes as well, the shifting will not be optimal, but will be in a level where 99% of users wont even notice a difference.

 

On 9 spd the chain is still nice and wide there is a lot of area for the chain to be "off center" with the sprocket. With newer 11spd and 12spd systems, the margins gets smaller, so SRAM changed the way their RD shifts, now it basically only moves horizontally and the jockey wheel is put at a greater distance from the pivot point in order for it to accommodate the vertical changes, thus no change in the amount of pull needed. this is also how they can fit 12 clicks into the same space as before.

 

Check you cable routing and especially if it is clamped correctly at the RD, if all of that is 100%, then you can look at the shifter again, but the chances of there being a problem in the shifter itself is about 2%

[Nuffy]

I'd like a picture, please?

 

Ah, I’ve reassembled it now. It was a bit of a pain to take apart because the bolt through the bottom of the thumb shifter has a square hole, and I had to use whatever I could find to hold that in place to loosen the allen bolt holding the shift plate and cable holder in place. Also, I see the end of my cable has snapped off at the derailleur clamp, and I don’t feel like replacing it now, so I did it all without taking the cable out. A bit awkward. I might be able to do it again later if you still want them, though I really don’t think you have any problems there. Everything looked the same on mine − same assembly, same tooth placement, direction, spacing, etc.

 

What derailleur are you using? And cassette? Would you care to upload pictures of those?

 

I’m guessing you’re encountering this problem setting everything up from scratch, and it’s not a system that has been working for some time and suddenly gone wrong?

[dirtypot]

What got me investigating the shifter, is that it shifts the first few gears okay-ish, and then near the top of the cassette shifts two cogs at a time.

 

I'm guessing that your issue is a bent RD hanger