Tubeless maintnance

[Mongooser]

My new bike came with tubeless on it,

I dont have any clue on what to do on maintaining it..all i know its fun laughing at friends fixing tubes

 

How often and what sealant do i use to top it up. What do i do when i get a pinch flat or rip it off the wheel,

any info on Tubeless would help,  I dont a want wheel blowing up on me because i didn't do something right

Thanks

[Reme Le Hane]

How often actually depends on what they put in, where and how you ride. Most places I have seen use stans, you can get a bottle for around 300 at sportsman's.

 

I tend to top mine up every 6 to 8 weeks, take off the tire, remove any gunk, but if I come back from a ride and I had any burps, evident by sealant outside the tyre I may just pop out the core and put in a small top up using a syringe. Stands recommends checking every 2 to 4 months I think it was, I find in summer it dries out faster than in winter, hence the 6 weeks. If you planning a race or a really long ride, weekend away then check it the week of for just in case.

 

Trick here is when you do take the tire off to check, you either need a compressor, a damn good high volume pump or an air tank, you every day floor pump in 80% of the time not be able to reseat the tire.

 

Next, buy some ait canisters, I usually keep 2x16g and 1x25g on me, although with a 29er anything less than a 25g won't fill up the tire if you burped it empty. 16 us best for its light on air and you too lazy/forgot the hand pump.

 

Also, keep a spare tube on you, if you get a blow out or a tear that the sealant won't deal with, you will need that to get back home.

 

Scott Scale 960 (2017)

 

MTB Vids: ltstyt.be/@remelehane

[GLuvsMtb]

You should have between 50 and 100ml of Stans in your tyre. Never use CO2 to inflate, and if you bombed a tyre on the trail, replace the Stans as soon as you get home. Stans and CO2 combined results in a congealed mess that messes up the rotational mass of your tyre and does nothing to seal a tyre in this state. I check my stans about every 2000km or 4 months, and before a big stage race. There is a technique involved when seating a tyre with a floor pump. It essentially involves putting enough downward pressure on the tyre while pumping it to ensure that enough air is retained to fill the casing and let the bead pop. I’ve never had problems to seat a tyre with my floor pump. When changing Stans, open the bead on one side only of the tyre. It makes seating the unseated bead a bit easier. Mtb rims generally allow a max pressure of 3.5 bar. You don’t need more than 2.5bar to seat a tyre, so don’t over-inflate.

You may notice some seepage in the first week or 2 at the bead, it is normal.

Always check your pressure before a ride.

 

If you have a puncture, get off your bike and slowly spin your wheel so that the liquid can seal the tyre.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Reme Le Hane]

You should have between 50 and 100ml of Stans in your tyre. Never use CO2 to inflate, and if you bombed a tyre on the trail, replace the Stans as soon as you get home. Stans and CO2 combined results in a congealed mess that messes up the rotational mass of your tyre and does nothing to seal a tyre in this state. I check my stans about every 2000km or 4 months, and before a big stage race. There is a technique involved when seating a tyre with a floor pump. It essentially involves putting enough downward pressure on the tyre while pumping it to ensure that enough air is retained to fill the casing and let the bead pop. I’ve never had problems to seat a tyre with my floor pump. When changing Stans, open the bead on one side only of the tyre. It makes seating the unseated bead a bit easier. Mtb rims generally allow a max pressure of 3.5 bar. You don’t need more than 2.5bar to seat a tyre, so don’t over-inflate.

You may notice some seepage in the first week or 2 at the bead, it is normal.

Always check your pressure before a ride.

 

If you have a puncture, get off your bike and slowly spin your wheel so that the liquid can seal the tyre.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Clearly you have been bombing wrong, or with some bats hit bombs as I have never had a congealed mess disrupting the rotational flow of my tyre caused by co2 bombs. Lol.

 

Occasionally you may get 1 or 2 of those stupid coral balls but that's not even remotely heavy enough to mess with anything and they form with or without the co2.

 

You just never bomb directly into the liquid, turn your tyre so that the valve is away from the bulk of you liquid.

 

Scott Scale 960 (2017)

 

MTB Vids: ltstyt.be/@remelehane

[wessie12]

I agree. I am using stans and never had any issues. Dont bomb directly into the the sealant.

[Kranswurm]

Always bombed and never had an issue

[PhilipV]

Clearly you have been bombing wrong, or with some bats hit bombs as I have never had a congealed mess disrupting the rotational flow of my tyre caused by co2 bombs. Lol.

 

Occasionally you may get 1 or 2 of those stupid coral balls but that's not even remotely heavy enough to mess with anything and they form with or without the co2.

 

You just never bomb directly into the liquid, turn your tyre so that the valve is away from the bulk of you liquid.

 

Scott Scale 960 (2017)

 

MTB Vids: ltstyt.be/@remelehane

No offense dude, but he has been bombing wheels long before you started riding. He isn't the newb here.

 

Stans formulation has improved a lot. the new stuff is pretty great.

Older stans used to eat your rims and hated co2. The ammonia in it corroded the area around the valve holes on two of my rims.

I've had sealant become a 2mm thick glue like layer sticking to the inside of a tyre. I've had sealant become grey water. And coral balls as well. The coral balls stopped when I stopped bombing tyres to seat them.

And if you don't remove them stans basically latches on to the coral growing until there is no stans left, only coral.

None of these happened overnight though. Good maintenance helps.

 

Gluv's advice is sound. If you have to bomb a tyre on the trail, you probably lost some stans as well, so it's a good idea to check it anyway.

 

Go do a bit of a search. Here was ons guys explanation.

 

- I dont use CO2 bombs for the tyres because the CO2 makes carbolic acid which neutralises the latex rendering the Stans useless

http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/tubless-tire-wont-seal-plz-help-324704.html

[GLuvsMtb]

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/107292-coral-garden-in-my-tubeless/

Here we discussed it way back in 2011. Some tried other sealants, with similar results. As Philip mentioned, the product continues to evolve and we see much less of this now. On the effect on rotation of the wheel, do an experiment: tape a 100g fishing sinker on your rim and spin it. See what happens. Remove the weight and spin the wheel again. Then spread 4 25g weights evenly at 90 deg each and spin again. 2 and 3 there is little effect. Adding 100g of liquid has little effect if the liquid spreads evenly. If it solidifies into a concentrated mass there is a marked change in wheel performance.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[popcorn_skollie]

Some basic tubeless tips.

 

1. Buy some spare valve cores. Presta valves are pretty fragile. Especially if you pump your wheels up often. I've snapped many over the years and always make sure I have spares laying around. They're about 50 bucks at you local lbs for a set. Buy and keep.
2. Put a dash of grease on the core before you screw it into the valve. This helps keep sealent from drying out in and around the valve core. A valve core stuck with dry sealent makes it difficult to pump up the wheel. It also makes it easier to snap the core when trying to lock the pump nozzle. 
3. The sealent debate. Some people believe in Stans religiously. I don't. I've used several others which work just as well at half the price. One thing I have learned is that what ever you use that works for you. Stick with it and don't mix different types of sealent in the same wheel.
4. Get some decent valve caps. Replace the plastic ones as soon as possible with something alloy or something. I find that the kcnc ones (about R100 per set) work well. They also come in different colours. The plastic valve caps strip threads quickly and eventually just pop off exposing the core to potential damage. A good valve cap can help a wheel with a leaking core hold more air for longer till you can replace it. 
5. You can check if your sealent needs topping up by pushing the tyre with your thumbs between the bead and the rim. Of course the pressures need to be low enough for you to be able to simulate a small burp. Do this at 4 or 5 points around the rim. You should burp out small amounts of wet sealent when the air escapes. As you check your wheels week after week. You'll notice that gradually over time, less and less wet sealent will burp as you check. Tiil you reach a point where you realise its probably time for a topup.

[King_Crispy]

Clearly you have been bombing wrong, or with some bats hit bombs as I have never had a congealed mess disrupting the rotational flow of my tyre caused by co2 bombs. Lol.

 

Occasionally you may get 1 or 2 of those stupid coral balls but that's not even remotely heavy enough to mess with anything and they form with or without the co2.

 

You just never bomb directly into the liquid, turn your tyre so that the valve is away from the bulk of you liquid.

 

Scott Scale 960 (2017)

 

MTB Vids: ltstyt.be/@remelehane

You are wrong.

Never use a bomb with Stans and leave it. Period. Sure it'll get you home, but then take the time to redo it all.

You're wasting your time and effort (and Stans) by redoing it so often anyways

[Kranswurm]

You are wrong.

Never use a bomb with Stans and leave it. Period. Sure it'll get you home, but then take the time to redo it all.

You're wasting your time and effort (and Stans) by redoing it so often anyways

Nope...he is right

Used bombs and stans and never had a problem

[Pace Cycles SA]

You can use a bomb as long as you don't do it in the direction of the sealent if you do well good luck getting home. the sealent will freeze

 

if you are going to bomb on the trail or at home make sure that the valve is at the top of the rim.

 

I am a level 3 Torque Zone Mechanic

[Mongooser]

Ok, so spend money on sealant and other stuff, wait for it to go flat or come off. blow it up with a bomb or pump, repeat   SEEMS SIMPLE ENOUGH

[scotty]

Ok, so spend money on sealant and other stuff, wait for it to go flat or come off. blow it up with a bomb or pump, repeat   SEEMS SIMPLE ENOUGH

If it goes flat out riding and tyre parts from rim you never going to inflate it with a hand pump. use your bomb.

[King_Crispy]

If it goes flat out riding and tyre parts from rim you never going to inflate it with a hand pump. use your bomb.

Absolutely.

Then do the replacement job of cleaning out the inside of the tyre etc.

But just to do it every few weeks just for fun?