Advice needed with removing a MTB cassette.

[Bateleur1]

I need advice on getting my Shimano Deore XT cassete off the hub.  Unlike the road bike where after you unscrew the locking ring you can remove the rings of the cassette one by one, the MTB cassette is all one piece except the smallest.  It somehow have "bitten" into the hub as it does not want to move. I even tried hitting the cassette from the other side with a hammer and flat end piece of bar and even still does not budge.  

 

Now what?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

carry on doing that, but small taps, all the way around the cassette. 

[Wannabe]

What I did when my cassette bit into my soft as butter AMC hub, was to put the wheel back into the frame, appliy the brake and use the "cassette removal tool" to loosen it, by forcing it in the other direction.

Worked a charm.

[BikeisLife]

I need advice on getting my Shimano Deore XT cassete off the hub.  Unlike the road bike where after you unscrew the locking ring you can remove the rings of the cassette one by one, the MTB cassette is all one piece except the smallest.  It somehow have "bitten" into the hub as it does not want to move. I even tried hitting the cassette from the other side with a hammer and flat end piece of bar and even still does not budge.  

 

Now what?

Takes a lot of blood, sweat and tears...

 

The cassette has eaten into the freehub slightly which makes it near impossible to move.

 

Take the freehub out the hub if you can, put a towel or something on the floor and then have the cassette facing to the floor and hit all around the cassette to try and remove it. It takes a while and does become extremely frustrating but you'll eventually get it off.

 

Might as well get another freehub while you at it, after it's done this once, it's going to happen again and get worse and worse which will effect your shifting as the cassette teeth move out of sync.

 

This is when you wish you had an XD driver - best invention since sliced cheese.

[BikeisLife]

What I did when my cassette bit into my soft as butter AMC hub, was to put the wheel back into the frame, appliy the brake and use the "cassette removal tool" to loosen it, by forcing it in the other direction.

Worked a charm.

That sounds like a much better idea than mine   Clever thinking!

[gummibear]

I even tried hitting the cassette from the other side with a hammer and flat end piece of bar and even still does not budge.  

 

Now what?

Carry on with that for a while.I usually use a piece of wood and a mallet and just light taps for a while.

[Bateleur1]

What I did when my cassette bit into my soft as butter AMC hub, was to put the wheel back into the frame, appliy the brake and use the "cassette removal tool" to loosen it, by forcing it in the other direction.

Worked a charm.

 

#DatSoBreinMoetVrotEendag 

[Bateleur1]

Thanks all for some good advice.

[Wannabe]

#DatSoBreinMoetVrotEendag 

 

#NieNet'nMooiGesiggieNie.  

[Bateleur1]

#NieNet'nMooiGesiggieNie.  

 

 Now I know why you are called Wannabe 

[droo]

I use two chain whips - hold the biggest cog and turn all the other cogs back out of the grooves they've dug for themselves.

 

Sometimes force is still necessary to get the cogs off, but it's far easier once they're released.

 

In extreme cases I've been known to support the cassette on a soft jawed vice and knock the driver out with a drift.

[Bateleur1]

I use two chain whips - hold the biggest cog and turn all the other cogs back out of the grooves they've dug for themselves.

 

Sometimes force is still necessary to get the cogs off, but it's far easier once they're released.

 

In extreme cases I've been known to support the cassette on a soft jawed vice and knock the driver out with a drift.

 

If I understand you correctly, that would work well on say my Roadbike cassette which would be a great solution as I happen to have two chain whips at home. The problem though is my MTB cassette is a single unit other than the last cog.  That is pretty much core of the problem.  It would be less of a problem if I could get the cogs off one by one till the last three which is normally a single unit.

[droo]

If I understand you correctly, that would work well on say my Roadbike cassette which would be a great solution as I happen to have two chain whips at home. The problem though is my MTB cassette is a single unit other than the last cog.  That is pretty much core of the problem.  It would be less of a problem if I could get the cogs off one by one till the last three which is normally a single unit.

 

An XT cassette has 4 or 5 individual cogs depending on whether it's 10 or 11 speed, then 2 sets of 3 mounted to spiders. The individual cogs will come off using the chainring trick, the 2 spider mounted sets can be more challenging if the body is properly rough. Which is where the support and drift method comes in.