Trek Fuel 9.8 SL Questions

[MudLark]

Hi guys,

 

So I had a bit of a rush of the proverbial to the head and went out and bought one of the above with Trek's good prices on the 2018 stock clearance. In some ways its really a bit wasted on me and I feel a little bit like the fat bald old guy in the open roof Ferrari... I was so embarrassed after I bought it that I didn't let the bike shop set it up. A few days after paying for it I went and collected it just so and slunk out the door.

 

But I have it now, so I set it up approximately right last night and just went up and down the road with it a few times... and was blown away by how much better it is even in that context than my older all aluminium Superfly 8 FS. I was really, really surprised. So maybe not money altogether wasted after all.

 

But I have a few questions which I would appreciate some help with if anyone has a few minutes to spare:

• I noticed that there are a few dual holes along the top side of the down tube (three or four pairs, if I'm not mistaken). They look like they might be for feeding cable ties through to tie down something like an actuator cable but this seems to make no sense in light of the fact that Trek have gone to a lot of trouble to ensure that all actuator cables can be fed through the inside of the down tube. Any ideas?

• I was really surprised at how well the Re:Aktive shock works. There's no pedal bob (or at least very little) even when not locked out but when you hit a bump or an uneven surface the thing works perfectly. Looking at the specs for the 2019 bike it appears that Trek have gone back to a Fox Float DPS 2 position shock. Any idea why? I bought the marketing bait on the Re:Aktive shock and it was a big part of my deciding to buy the bike - and so far it looks like the marketing bait is all true.So why the change?

• The derailleur trigger for shifting down to smaller sprockets only operates with a push motion and can't be pulled like the Shimano ones can. Is there a SRAM 12 speed trigger that has the pull option as well that I can use in replacement of the standard GX shifter I have or is it a matter of "get used to it bro"?

• What's with the clear plastic dish between the cassette and the spokes? I'm inclined to haul it out and chuck it away. 

• Does the Mino Link really make much of a difference? I'll suck it and see anyway but when I go for a bike fit tomorrow should I have it in the lower or higher Mino Link position?

• Lastly, those Bontrager XR2 Team Issue tyres. I read that they're very fast but can be twitchy on downhills. I'm not inclined to want to take a hard fall anytime soon again if I can help it (one stuffed vertebra is enough for now). I tend to want to go to something a bit grippier with deeper knobs, especially on the front - maybe a bit wider too - say 2.4". Good idea or bad idea?

Any advice is much appreciated.

[lenzman]

I just sold my 2017 Trek Top Fuel 9.8 SL because it was too much bike for me

 

It is an amazing climber but for the Trail I felt like I needed more travel up front

 

Now riding HT and realized how much of a fashion accessory that performance tuned rear suspension was for my type of riding

Edited August 3, 2018 by lenzman

[MudLark]

Thanks for that. The climbing ability is important to me. At the moment my riding partners leave my in the dust on climbs (one's on a hard tail and the other on a Camber) but I can go fast on the flats and hold my own on the downhills with the older Superfly 8.

[BikeisLife]

Hi Mudlark

 

I ride a Top Fuel as well. 

 

• These holes are for if you want to run an external routed dropper or prefer your break lines etc running on the outside of the frame. 

• As for the shock, I have no answer for that.

• "get used to it bro" thats how Sram works...

• Pull off the cassette and chuck that thing, all it does is catches dirt and looks s*#t. It's meant to catch your chain from dropping into your spokes but if your derailleur is setup correctly this won't happen, especially with Sram's Eagle cassette.

• I moved my Mino-link into the low position and found the bike to be a lot more stable on the downs. It adjusts the head tube angle into a more slacker position.

• I never rode those tyres but currently running a Vittoria Barzo 2.25 (F) and Mezcal 2.25 ® and they great! You can even get them in a 2.35 size. 

[Titleist]

The idea behind the push derailleur trigger is that you can operate it while you are braking. You'll get used to it, when I got a new bike from Shimano to Sram it took me an hour max and I was used to it.

 

I'll put on a 2.3 XR 3 at the front. My EX9.8 has the 2.4's and they are heavy. I'm ditching them as soon as they are used up.

[dirtypot]

• The derailleur trigger for shifting down to smaller sprockets only operates with a push motion and can't be pulled like the Shimano ones can. Is there a SRAM 12 speed trigger that has the pull option as well that I can use in replacement of the standard GX shifter I have or is it a matter of "get used to it bro"?

• What's with the clear plastic dish between the cassette and the spokes? I'm inclined to haul it out and chuck it away.

 

 

For the shifting, you'll just have to get used to it, but it will happen quickly.  I made the same switch a while ago and the transition to learning to push instead of pull is quick. 

 

The plastic dish is to save your chain from getting stuck between the cassette and the spokes if it derails over the top.  however a well set up gear system shouldn't derail so it's largely superfluous.  Take it off!

 

Enjoy the bike!

[PeterF]

The holes in the downtube are probably for the dropper post's cable routing. SRAM shifters do not have a pull action and please remove the plastic disc on the back wheel although it does protect your spokes in the event of a chain drop it just looks out of place on anything other han a Macro bike.

[MudLark]

Many thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback.

[droo]

Nothing will make you look like the fat old git in a Ferrari quite like a pie plate. Throw it away ASAP.

 

As for SRAM shifters, you'll get used to it. Try different rotation angles though - set it so the downshift is comfortable and the upshift will take care of itself.

[PeterF]

"As for SRAM shifters, you'll get used to it. Try different rotation angles though - set it so the downshift is comfortable and the upshift will take care of itself."

 

And if you don't 12spd Shimano shifters should be available in the near future.

[DieselnDust]

"As for SRAM shifters, you'll get used to it. Try different rotation angles though - set it so the downshift is comfortable and the upshift will take care of itself."

 

And if you don't 12spd Shimano shifters should be available in the near future.

 

that will require a Shimano rear Derailleur as well...

[JuliBoB]

Go for Bontrager XR3/4, both really good tyre options. XR4 will have a higher rolling resistance due to it being more trail orientated, but the grip is really good.

[PeterF]

that will require a Shimano rear Derailleur as well...

Duh! Sorry blonde moment on my part....

[georges]

 

Hi Mudlark

 

I ride a Top Fuel as well. 

 

• These holes are for if you want to run an external routed dropper or prefer your break lines etc running on the outside of the frame. 

• As for the shock, I have no answer for that.

• "get used to it bro" thats how Sram works...

• Pull off the cassette and chuck that thing, all it does is catches dirt and looks s*#t. It's meant to catch your chain from dropping into your spokes but if your derailleur is setup correctly this won't happen, especially with Sram's Eagle cassette.

• I moved my Mino-link into the low position and found the bike to be a lot more stable on the downs. It adjusts the head tube angle into a more slacker position.

• I never rode those tyres but currently running a Vittoria Barzo 2.25 (F) and Mezcal 2.25 ® and they great! You can even get them in a 2.35 size. 

 

 I agree with everything being said here. 

 

The XR2 are excellent tyres and you may wish to consider merely replacing the front with a XR2 with the wider 2.3. option. Make sure sure you tire pressures are correct. I weigh 75 kgs and have a tire pressure of 24 psi rear and 21 psi front.

 

I have also found that the Trek shock pressures given on their site are to hard and use the standard 20% sag. Change the rebound to the middle setting on the front and back and then play around and adjust to your liking by a turn at a time. 

 

Once dialed in it is the most stable and comfortable bikes I have ridden.  

[BikeisLife]

 I agree with everything being said here. 

 

The XR2 are excellent tyres and you may wish to consider merely replacing the front with a XR2 with the wider 2.3. option. Make sure sure you tire pressures are correct. I weigh 75 kgs and have a tire pressure of 24 psi rear and 21 psi front.

 

I have also found that the Trek shock pressures given on their site are to hard and use the standard 20% sag. Change the rebound to the middle setting on the front and back and then play around and adjust to your liking by a turn at a time. 

 

Once dialed in it is the most stable and comfortable bikes I have ridden.  

What pressure are you running in the shock? Is it the Fox shock? Haven't got mine dialled in properly yet and think I'm probably running it a bit hard. I'm around your weight.

[georges]

 I agree with everything being said here. 

 

The XR2 are excellent tyres and you may wish to consider merely replacing the front with a XR2 with the wider 2.3. option. Make sure sure you tire pressures are correct. I weigh 75 kgs and have a tire pressure of 24 psi rear and 21 psi front.

 

I have also found that the Trek shock pressures given on their site are to hard and use the standard 20% sag. Change the rebound to the middle setting on the front and back and then play around and adjust to your liking by a turn at a time. 

 

Once dialed in it is the most stable and comfortable bikes I have ridden.  

 

What pressure are you running in the shock? Is it the Fox shock? Haven't got mine dialled in properly yet and think I'm probably running it a bit hard. I'm around your weight.

120 Rear & 75 Front.