LBKloppers Posted November 3, 2018 Share I hope my query is not too difficult for the Hub's extraordinary Specialists out there. I have been riding for many years and as such I was exposed to the different cycling related standards as it developed over the years. I started riding when the 15mm nuts held everything together, but as I grew older and able, I was exposed to and used the QR system. Today I own a bike with the Maxle 15mm in front and a QR at the back. The QR at the back irritates the heebee jeebees out of me. The QR can not hold the axle in place and I have to constantly adjust the brake for clearance. It is time to fix this! The big question then is.....is it possible to upgrade to a 12mm system if the bike frame (carbon) is a 9mm QR? O and for the clever ones, no I do not want to buy a new bike thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane_Bosch Posted November 3, 2018 Share So you want to fit a wheel with a 12mm through axle to a bike that's equipped for a QR? If so. Yes. I did that with an aftermarket through axle conversion kit.i bought it from CRC many many moons ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Conversion will most likely depend on frame. Giant for instance on there later trances provided and aftermarket kit, that replaced the drop outs for a 12mm thru axle. Sounds to me like you have a bigger problem though. The QR should be fine if it was designed that way. Have you not maybe got play on your cup and cone bearings or something that is not tightened properly? You should not have to be adjusting your brakes etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBKloppers Posted November 3, 2018 Share Conversion will most likely depend on frame. Giant for instance on there later trances provided and aftermarket kit, that replaced the drop outs for a 12mm thru axle. Sounds to me like you have a bigger problem though. The QR should be fine if it was designed that way. Have you not maybe got play on your cup and cone bearings or something that is not tightened properly? You should not have to be adjusting your brakes etcThe bed where the QR axle is lying has fore and aft play. I monitored that by looking at the rim position in relation to the frame. The hub bearings are linear sealed units and there are no play at all. The bike I have is a 2013 model and I have lived with it from day one. Definitely not a wear and tear problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBKloppers Posted November 3, 2018 Share Conversion will most likely depend on frame. Giant for instance on there later trances provided and aftermarket kit, that replaced the drop outs for a 12mm thru axle. Sounds to me like you have a bigger problem though. The QR should be fine if it was designed that way. Have you not maybe got play on your cup and cone bearings or something that is not tightened properly? You should not have to be adjusting your brakes etc The bike is a Felt Edict. No support in good oll RSA and long ago out of guarantee. The drive side is the hanger and I guess it can easily be machined. My concern is that on the non-drive side the cutout or bed is only 9 comma something in diameter and clearly intended for the 9mm QR. Whatever kit or conversion I try need to convert this bit to accept the 12mm through axle. Or am I mistaken? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted November 3, 2018 Share Sounds like you need a new QR skewer. Try one with a cam lock like Shimano. With the right skewer you should have no movement and definitely not need to adjust the caliper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted November 3, 2018 Share . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 5, 2018 Share Sounds like you need a new QR skewer. Try one with a cam lock like Shimano. With the right skewer you should have no movement and definitely not need to adjust the caliper! I'm also going to guess your current skewer is rubbish. Get a Shimano or a DT Swiss RWS skewer and your problem will be solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBKloppers Posted November 6, 2018 Share I'm also going to guess your current skewer is rubbish. Get a Shimano or a DT Swiss RWS skewer and your problem will be solved. Skewer is fine. Its already a DT Swiss. If I tighten the skewer more I get angular force on the bearings, restricting the free running of the wheel and its already so tight that its hard to open the skewer.There is too much forward and aft free play between the axle and the frame. No skewer can fix that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted November 6, 2018 Share Skewer is fine. Its already a DT Swiss. If I tighten the skewer more I get angular force on the bearings, restricting the free running of the wheel and its already so tight that its hard to open the skewer.There is too much forward and aft free play between the axle and the frame. No skewer can fix that.Something is seriously wrong if your skewer affects the bearings and if there is still movement after you close the skewer. Time to take it to a bike shop. I'd love to see this bike physically - I'm stumped! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted November 6, 2018 Share Post a pic or two please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 6, 2018 Share The clamping force of the skewer is what holds the wheel in place, not the fit between the axle and the dropout - there is never a perfect fit between the frame and axle. The problem is either that your dropout is worn out or the skewer isn't tight enough. Also there's a problem with your hub, so start by rebuilding that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosebay Posted November 6, 2018 Share If your axle end that fits between into the dropout (this can happen either end) is as long as the width of the drop out or even slightly longer the skewer will tighten against the end of the axle and not the frame. Normally the opposite end is then correspondingly shorter, but not always. When the skewer tightens against the hub (axle) their will be movement because their is no friction against the frame (or too little to prevent movement) Check the hub before you do anything drastic, esp the axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 6, 2018 Share If your axle end that fits between into the dropout (this can happen either end) is as long as the width of the drop out or even slightly longer the skewer will tighten against the end of the axle and not the frame. Normally the opposite end is then correspondingly shorter, but not always. When the skewer tightens against the hub (axle) their will be movement because their is no friction against the frame (or too little to prevent movement) Check the hub before you do anything drastic, esp the axle Good call. I think you might have nailed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBKloppers Posted November 6, 2018 Share Something is seriously wrong if your skewer affects the bearings and if there is still movement after you close the skewer. Time to take it to a bike shop. I'd love to see this bike physically - I'm stumped!Welcome to Tanzania. Bikeshops here is not the kind you are used to. Thanks anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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