arendoog Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Never thought of this before...so bit of a type question. Where do you buy spare cleat screws? Someone has previously mentioned that some bolts on a bike are universal (might have been a rotor screw) - will that also be the same as a cleat screw? Normal nut and bolt place?Remove one of your shoes knobs and replace with a screw or use the knob screw .They are the same size .Before i tighten the screw in the final position i heat the cleat with a hairdryer .When it cools down the cleat is lightly melted in the sole and the screw will not come out
DieselnDust Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 I've not had a problem with Maxxis (Ardent and Ikon combo) or Vittoria (Barzo and Saguaro combo). Just make sure your Barzo's are not the Cape Cobra. Something has changed but the new tyre lacks grip everywhere. Its horrible!! The Rocket RON Speed Addix compound has more grip.I may even go back to Maxxis Ikon thats how horrible the Barzo is.
arendoog Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Personally I disagree. The pros are consistent with their power. It is not like suddenly throwing a ton of petrol on a fire. It is like adding it consistently and the power is stable. When a 100kg plus guy suddenly stands on a crank it is tested to its absolute limits. The weakest link will break 6 out of 10 times I would have thought. This is simply my theory. That is why you see the big guys with broken chains a lot more often than the pros. Well that is what I see anyway.I weigh a 100 kg and have only broken a chain due to poor maintenance.What i have seen are riders going thru a dip with the chain already on the bigger gear on the cassette and standing .Thus putting the whole drive train on a stretched limit .As soon as the rear suspension bottoms out ,either the derail-er is pulled off or the chain breaks
Goodbadugly Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 I have personally seen:Lots of puncturesBroken spokesBent hangers.Broken shiftersBroken jockeys.Snapped derailleur cables.Broken saddle railsBroken seat posts.Rubbish seat post clampsBroken Lefty'sChainsBrake hoses ripped offSnapped rear suspensions.Taco'd wheelsBottle cages breaking off. Point is, you can't be prepared for all that.I take a multi tool, small pliers, tube, plugs, bombs. pump, link and a hanger. And a few cable ties.
arendoog Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Awesome, thanks for the responses everyone! Those lists pretty much summarize what we're planning on bringing (at least some combination thereof...final combo TBD depending on weight and our comfort once we get out on the trails in S Africa). What does everyone prefer re: tyre choice? Thinking of running Shwalbe tubeless snakeskins. Maybe some Racing Ralphs or even Nobby Nics for puncture protection.I will be using maxxis 3C ikon rear and shwalbe Nobby Nics snakeskin in front for better grip .Barzo is also a good choice for a front Tyre .I find maxxis ardent too heavy and hard for a front tyre
Quagga Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 I weigh a 100 kg and have only broken a chain due to poor maintenance.What i have seen is riders going thru a dip with the chain already on the bigger gear on the cassette and standing .Thus putting the whole drive train on a stretched limit .As soon as the rear suspension bottoms out ,either the derail-er is pulled off or the chain breaks That is due to incorrect chain lenght then
Shebeen Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Should we move this thread to Tech Q&A already?JB would have been all over this.
arendoog Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 That is due to incorrect chain lenght thenYes .That is when they find out that the chain length was wrong
DieselnDust Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Personally I disagree. The pros are consistent with their power. It is not like suddenly throwing a ton of petrol on a fire. It is like adding it consistently and the power is stable. When a 100kg plus guy suddenly stands on a crank it is tested to its absolute limits. The weakest link will break 6 out of 10 times I would have thought. This is simply my theory. That is why you see the big guys with broken chains a lot more often than the pros. Well that is what I see anyway. I don;t think the riders mass has anything to do with the frequency of broken chains.I think its purely a matter of chain speed vs tension.Rider weight is tension but higher power also results in higher chain tension and i we consider that a pro rider has a FTP at least a 100W more than a Buffalo cat guy then that would lead me to believe that rider weight alone isn't the issue If the chain speed is high i.e. high cadence then the chain is better able to pick up the shift ramps thus relieving the pressure from the derailleur more quickly. In short the higher the cadence the the less twisting force is on the chain. This is why pro's have fewer broken chains because they're able to maintain higher cadence for longer than Joe Soap.Couple this to the fact that the Pro's also know how to ease off the chain tension for just a moment and timing that with a gear shift we have pretty much most of the story.Those high tension slow cadence shifts is just murder for a chain
arendoog Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Am I missing something here. You broke a chain because you didn't clean it? What else constitutes poor maintenance to a chain? I really am missing something here. Never replaced anything on the whole drive train .Chain was stretched and worn .Rode it until it broke
DieselnDust Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 Never replaced anything on the whole drive train .Chain was stretched and worn .Rode it until it broke In this case it probably did break as a result of a plate loosening from a rivet. That does tend to become more of a reality when a chain is well worn
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