IcemanGP Posted October 25, 2019 Author Posted October 25, 2019 If you rode an XL and it was an issue with the frame i could help with a 26" HT frame. Prices for decent 26" wheels, tyres, suspension shocks etc I find more expensive than their bigger brother. So far it is not an issue with the frame, (My budget repair seems to be holding up well) I suppose anything to do with mountain biking is expensive. I just wish the parts would last as long as the prices attached to them. I managed to secure some Vredenstein tyres on special (now have 14 plugs in my front wheel) now I hear that only MAXXIS tyres are coming out in 26", and those on special cost as much as a car's tyres and don't even get the same mileage.I bought this bike way back when I was still working, it's the only one I have.
IcemanGP Posted October 25, 2019 Author Posted October 25, 2019 OK OP so did you see the post from Simon Kolin? 200ZAR is not a bad price, did you follow up to see it it would work for you. Apparently the bushes were also not shot. So for me that would have been for the win. But that is just me.Yes I did, it was at his suggestion that it probably would not work for me as parts not being interchangeable ... otherwise I would have gone for it.
Koos Likkewaan Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 Iceman, please speak to Simon again. Simon, please see your PM.
Goosebay Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 Yes I did, it was at his suggestion that it probably would not work for me as parts not being interchangeable ... otherwise I would have gone for it.It probably would - the earlier forks are completely interchangeable - including dampers and airsprings - it is only the most basic entry level that had the plastic end to the stanchion. Those lowers should do the the trick. The strain on the arch is such that the magnesium can't be repaired -
dirtypot Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 Only one person gave advice that said it cannot be welded, but should be Brazed as it's not Aluminum. Post #3 said that it was magnesium, so maybe you're using selective reading? Especially when finances are tight, wasting money on the wrong repair which has been advised against seems foolish.
AdamA Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 Fork lowers are usually magnesium or manganese... and should only be Brazed and not welded, Brazing magnesium should be done at 723deg Celsius, Brazing manganese should be done at 327deg Fahrenheit Please post pics of the repair Thank you for your reply ... one of the few that has sincerely tried to offer the best advice to help a guy out with a tight budget. Things written in Italics are are for sarcasm, and those number are total made up. Apologies for misleading you.
IcemanGP Posted October 25, 2019 Author Posted October 25, 2019 Things written in Italics are are for sarcasm, and those number are total made up. Apologies for misleading you. sarcasm noted .... dangnabbit, I should be more awake when reading stuff. I did find it weird between the Celsius and Fahrenheit figures. But I assumed you knew your stuff, and you know what assumption did?Anyway, dig your sense of humour, no harm no foul.
AdamA Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 So far it is not an issue with the frame, (My budget repair seems to be holding up well) Are you still ridding your Ghost AMS frame????
DieselnDust Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 Things written in Italics are are for sarcasm, and those number are total made up. Apologies for misleading you.Was wondering when you’d own up lol...
IcemanGP Posted October 25, 2019 Author Posted October 25, 2019 Are you still ridding your Ghost AMS frame???? Yes I am.
droo Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 I need advice that helps a guy on a budget that doesn't exist that cannot afford a "Replacement Shock or Bike" ... I cannot always be begging for some donations, it's bad enough that I find myself in my current life situation.If I could have done that, I would never have asked for any advice in the first place.Only one person gave advice that said it cannot be welded, but should be Brazed as it's not Aluminum. I've said this elsewhere - wishing the moon were made of cheese does not make it so. The fix is the fix, and throwing money and time at something that isn't going to work is a waste of resources, which are apparently scarce. Sitting in an ER queue will waste even more. Being moerig is not going to help you here. Accept that the advice, though not to your liking, is sincere, and nobody is trying to sell you anything you don't need. In fact, a few people have offered proper cheap and useful solutions. /rant
dasilvarsa Posted October 25, 2019 Posted October 25, 2019 I recently also damaged my front wheel @ Big Red Barn Blue/Black Route.I think that Blue/Black Route needs a more Enduro Orientated Bike. These XC Bikes just can't handle some of the more radical drops. Lucky 4 me the Repairs were not that Xpensive but having the QR snap in Half and the Rim Crack and fold were quite frightening.
IcemanGP Posted October 25, 2019 Author Posted October 25, 2019 I recently also damaged my front wheel @ Big Red Barn Blue/Black Route.I think that Blue/Black Route needs a more Enduro Orientated Bike. These XC Bikes just can't handle some of the more radical drops. Lucky 4 me the Repairs were not that Xpensive but having the QR snap in Half and the Rim Crack and fold were quite frightening.Ouchies
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